Where's the power? Part duex.

[meanchicken]

So I installed the adjustable actuator. I started with the rod about the same length as my stock actuator and then spun in 1.5 turns from there. The stock actuator was just about 14lbs of boost on my gauge.

I went out for a drive and I'm pushing about 16lbs at WOT. Feels much stronger, but....I'm getting KR again. On a few seperate pulls I had KR anywhere from 1-5, usually right after shift points, so I stopped goofing around and will keep it out of KR unti I figure this out.

When I first step into it hard, the gauge boosts up to near 20 and then settles back down at 16. It was doing this with the old actuator too, only it would go to about 18 and then settle to 14.

My TurboTweak chip is supposed to be burned for 15-17 lbs, my 60 lb injectors, stock turbo, no alky, 91 octane, stock etc.

Tomorrow I'll check out my MAP sensor and I think I'll be giving Eric a call in the next couple days to see if he has any ideas....maybe I need to dial up some more fuel pressure.....I dunno.

Any ideas?

Tim

 

[graza002]

So I installed the adjustable actuator. I started with the rod about the same length as my stock actuator and then spun in 1.5 turns from there. The stock actuator was just about 14lbs of boost on my gauge.

I went out for a drive and I'm pushing about 16lbs at WOT. Feels much stronger, but....I'm getting KR again. On a few seperate pulls I had KR anywhere from 1-5, usually right after shift points, so I stopped goofing around and will keep it out of KR unti I figure this out.

When I first step into it hard, the gauge boosts up to near 20 and then settles back down at 16. It was doing this with the old actuator too, only it would go to about 18 and then settle to 14.

My TurboTweak chip is supposed to be burned for 15-17 lbs, my 60 lb injectors, stock turbo, no alky, 91 octane, stock etc.

Tomorrow I'll check out my MAP sensor and I think I'll be giving Eric a call in the next couple days to see if he has any ideas....maybe I need to dial up some more fuel pressure.....I dunno.

Any ideas?

Tim

Sounds like a spike. You may have a slight vacuum leak. I know you replaced most if not all vacuum lines. Also, check your turbo for shaft play, my stocker spiked alot when the turbo went bad.

What speed are you getting the KR? and what are the O2s at when you get the KR?

 

[graza002]

Just a thought, the KR is happening at shift points, maybe a bad mount and the DP is hitting the frame which is causing false KR's.


Come to think of it, didnt you have some of your mounts replaced?

 

[meanchicken]

Sounds like a spike. You may have a slight vacuum leak. I know you replaced most if not all vacuum lines. Also, check your turbo for shaft play, my stocker spiked alot when the turbo went bad.

What speed are you getting the KR? and what are the O2s at when you get the KR?

I pulled the intake hose off the turbo last week and checked it for play. I didn't seem to have any and spun OK.

The recorded O2's were anywhere from the mid 700's to low 800's. I only checked recorded speed once...38 mph. Next time I'm out I'll try getting more O2's correlated with KR and speeds they occurred at.

What else could cause spike? The waste gate and turbo hoses are good. I had replaced a few others also, but honestly have not replaced them all....only the ones that looked suspect.

The vacuum readings off my gauge are 20 at idle....seem normal?
Wouldn't it be less if I still had leaks...or should it be higher?

Tim

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

If you get 20 psi in first and your playing around with low boost numbers, just do this.

Run a 7/32 hose from the wastegate nipple to the compressor housing and hopefully it will get rid of the spike, also will tell you what your wastegate is set to.

Its called tuner style, just do it, and if you have creep on the top end, bore out the hole in the turbo exhaust housing.

Once you loop it and do tuner style, it should get rid of the spike and shouldnt creep, if it creeps on the high mph side, bore out the exhaust housing to expell exhaust.

If it was mine i would put a RJC valve and loosen the wastegate rod
BW

 

[Ttype83]

A little KR at shift points are normal if you have something loose, ignore it for now. You have a couple of problems...
1. Still have the stock valves springs on......
Get a logging program, Have have a couple of FREE laptop programs that I can email to you. You would only need to get a cable, about $25.
2. With the spike from 20psi to 16psi you have a vac leak and/or cracker header. For vac leak look at you EGR purge and bet that the inside line has blown off. Look at your driver header at cyl #5, look good because it's cracked.
If you want to hear it get a small funnel and about 2-3 feet of hose. attach hose to funnel, stick funnel to ear and move hose around. I use fuel hose because it's thicker and easier to put it in the area I want to listen to.

 

[meanchicken]

Just a thought, the KR is happening at shift points, maybe a bad mount and the DP is hitting the frame which is causing false KR's.

Come to think of it, didnt you have some of your mounts replaced?

The bad mount I replaced was my trans mount. I fixed that a couple weeks back. I think the engine mounts are OK.
Besides...the knock is audible at times. It comes and goes quickly as the KR kicks in, but it's baaaaaack.

If you get 20 psi in first and your playing around with low boost numbers, just do this.

Run a 7/32 hose from the wastegate nipple to the compressor housing and hopefully it will get rid of the spike, also will tell you what your wastegate is set to.

Its called tuner style, just do it, and if you have creep on the top end, bore out the hole in the turbo exhaust housing.

Once you loop it and do tuner style, it should get rid of the spike and shouldnt creep, if it creeps on the high mph side, bore out the exhaust housing to expell exhaust.

If it was mine i would put a RJC valve and loosen the wastegate rod
BW

Don't forget...I'm a rookie still so you gotta type slower and in smaller words....
:redface:
So....if I'm understanding correctly, you're saying to bypass and block off the hoses that are already on the WG actuator and compressor and then run a single hose between the WG and compressor....?

To bore out the exhaust housing, this no doubt means to remove the turbo and break out a die grinder and start grainding out the exhaust housing...?

Thanks!
Tim

 

[Ttype83]

To bore out the exhaust housing, this no doubt means to remove the turbo and break out a die grinder and start grainding out the exhaust housing...?

Take off the DP and unbolt the exhuast elbow from the turbo, no need to remove the turbo.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Don't forget...I'm a rookie still so you gotta type slower and in smaller words....
:redface:
So....if I'm understanding correctly, you're saying to bypass and block off the hoses that are already on the WG actuator and compressor and then run a single hose between the WG and compressor....?

To bore out the exhaust housing, this no doubt means to remove the turbo and break out a die grinder and start grainding out the exhaust housing...?

Thanks!
Tim

Yes, make a new hose and not use the factory bullcrap that makes the spike.
1 hose 7/32 tuner style from compressor to wastegate and see where your at, then adjust the wastegate to be what you desire.

If it creeps (15 15 15 15 16 16 17 18 18 19 19 19 20 in third gear) then bore out the hole where the wastegate covers and it will controll the boost (even with factory parts) but you might need a larger puck to cover the hole
BW

 

[meanchicken]

A little KR at shift points are normal if you have something loose, ignore it for now. You have a couple of problems...
1. Still have the stock valves springs on......
Get a logging program, Have have a couple of FREE laptop programs that I can email to you. You would only need to get a cable, about $25.
2. With the spike from 20psi to 16psi you have a vac leak and/or cracker header. For vac leak look at you EGR purge and bet that the inside line has blown off. Look at your driver header at cyl #5, look good because it's cracked.
If you want to hear it get a small funnel and about 2-3 feet of hose. attach hose to funnel, stick funnel to ear and move hose around. I use fuel hose because it's thicker and easier to put it in the area I want to listen to.

Yes...still have the original valve springs. They and the timing chain are on my long "To-Do" list.
I'll inspect the EGR lines....again
I'll check that header out too. I have not heard anything like an exhaust leak while poking around under the hood, but I'll try the funnel and hose suggestion...this better not be a hazing ritual:tongue: I got plenty hazing action during my military service.

Take off the DP and unbolt the exhuast elbow from the turbo, no need to remove the turbo.

Cool...thanks.

 

[meanchicken]

Yes, make a new hose and not use the factory bullcrap that makes the spike.
1 hose 7/32 tuner style from compressor to wastegate and see where your at, then adjust the wastegate to be what you desire.

If it creeps (15 15 15 15 16 16 17 18 18 19 19 19 20 in third gear) then bore out the hole where the wastegate covers and it will controll the boost (even with factory parts) but you might need a larger puck to cover the hole
BW

Thanks.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Thanks.

And ya wonder why my stock cars run so well with hardly nothing done:biggrin:



BW

 

[meanchicken]

And ya wonder why my stock cars run so well with hardly nothing done:biggrin:



BW

Ya but....you sure do park them funny.
Must be tuff on the body work...and how do you get in and out of them once you get them on their side like that?:tongue:

 

[Ttype83]

Yes...still have the original valve springs. They and the timing chain are on my long "To-Do" list.
I'll inspect the EGR lines....again
I'll check that header out too. I have not heard anything like an exhaust leak while poking around under the hood, but I'll try the funnel and hose suggestion...this better not be a hazing ritual:tongue: I got plenty hazing action during my military service.



Cool...thanks.

Not a hazing ritual, but will look pretty stupid if someone gets you on camera wonder how I know this darn kids.
Crack could be on the back side and hard to hear.
Don't feel bad about the springs, had my in the truck for a year. That's Technically in the car right.

 

[meanchicken]

Not a hazing ritual, but will look pretty stupid if someone gets you on camera wonder how I know this darn kids.
Crack could be on the back side and hard to hear.
Don't feel bad about the springs, had my in the truck for a year. That's Technically in the car right.

LOL

 

[meanchicken]

A little KR at shift points are normal if you have something loose, ignore it for now. You have a couple of problems...
1. Still have the stock valves springs on......
Get a logging program, Have have a couple of FREE laptop programs that I can email to you. You would only need to get a cable, about $25.
2. With the spike from 20psi to 16psi you have a vac leak and/or cracker header. For vac leak look at you EGR purge and bet that the inside line has blown off. Look at your driver header at cyl #5, look good because it's cracked.
If you want to hear it get a small funnel and about 2-3 feet of hose. attach hose to funnel, stick funnel to ear and move hose around. I use fuel hose because it's thicker and easier to put it in the area I want to listen to.

Hey,
You appear to be onto somethin on the cracked header. I havn't had a chance to drive the car again due to rain, but last night I took a quick look around under the hood.

I was eyeballing the DS header down where the #3 and #5 primary tubes merge and it looks like there might be a big ol' crack there. Is this where they normally crack?

Would a cracked header also explain why this engine seems to be so slow to boost up? I'll mash the peddle and the car will barely get moving from a stop, but then the boost kicks in (probably at about 10mph) and spikes up to near 20 before settling back down to 16.

Will driving with a cracked header harm the engine?
Tim

 

[Ttype83]

A cracked header will slow the spool time from the leak and O2 thinking it's leaner. You will never get the tune right. No real damage, you don't drive it enough IMHO. Yes that is the normal spot to crack. Remove it and take it to a welder and have it fixed (I'll be doing mine in the next couple of days).
I'll also bet that the cross over pipe and were the turbo mounts to the PS header are leaking. I got the gasket from RJC for the turbo and works great.

 

[Jmccustoms]

I also had a drivers side leak on the #5 where the tube goes in ans is welded to the flange, just another place to look for a leak... my .02 to help out

 

[meanchicken]

Thanks, guys. That's gotta be it.

I drove today just to get some readings off the ScanMaster at WOT.

O2s KR Speed
750 0.7 70
773 1.6 Dunno
789 4.5 34
773 1.2 75
832 3.5 36
800 4.9 59
726 2.3 36
777 3.0 33

Enough of that until I fix the DS header.

Tim

 

[meanchicken]

The new RJC header gaskets or my stock headers showed up a couple days ago, so tonite I yanked the DS header out. It didn't come out without a fight though. I ended up snapping one of the crossover pipe bolts cuz it was seized in the header flange nut.

Anyway, this header is cracked BAAAAAD at the #3 and #5. Looks like it's cracked all along the factory weld from side to side where the pipes join, and it also looks like there might be a small crack higher up on the #5 tube too.

Anyway, I'm taking it to Lou tomorrow and he's gonna fix it up for me.

Tim