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Where's the power? Part duex.

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Port the exhaust elbow while it's apart and replace those valve springs ;)
I just got half of my stuff done last Saturday, DR header welded, passenger motor mount replaced and a temp fix to the exhaust hanger. Waiting on a new alky pump, replace the valve springs, fix the low fan ballast and get the shroud for my stretch IC.
 
Remind me...exactly where is the exhaust elbow located?

Between the turbo and DP

P1010224.jpg


P1010174.jpg
 
That's what I thought....I didn't disassemble anything on the passenger side. Only the driver side.

Before I start adding any more power, etc. I want to get the basic tune right and then go baseline the car at the track. Porting the elbow like you showed me in the pix is on the to do list.

I picked up my driver side header from Lou. He fixed it up real good and got that broken bolt out of it. If I get time tomorrow, it goes back in the car.
 
this better not be a hazing ritual I got plenty hazing action during my military service.

lol, I have done that trick for YEARS but I have never used a funnel, makes sence though. I usually just grab about a 4 ft long piece of good water hose. One end to ear, other moving around the motor. Anyone that hasn't tried this trick will be AMAZED on how well it works. Daniel Ray
 
Well...I got it all back together.

Since it didn't have a header gasket before (as original), I reinstalled it without the header gasket I bought.

The turbo does spool up a bit quicker now, and there is less of a tendancy to go into KR, but I still get some KR here and there.

Had one run with O2 mv at 753 and KR at 5.6.

To remove all doubt in the remaining vacuum lines that I have not replaced yet (they look OK) I'm going to replace them next.

Question: The plastic OEM vacuum lines with rubber boots like the ones that run to the MAP, etc. Do they have to be replaced with the same type of line, or will a silicon rubber hose of the right size be OK?
If Si Rubber is OK...what size?

I know there's a thread here somewhere about how much of what size hose to use, so I'll look it up...just not sure if it includes replacement hose for those plastic lines or not.
Thanks!
Tim
 
Question: The plastic OEM vacuum lines with rubber boots like the ones that run to the MAP, etc. Do they have to be replaced with the same type of line, or will a silicon rubber hose of the right size be OK?
If Si Rubber is OK...what size?

I know there's a thread here somewhere about how much of what size hose to use, so I'll look it up...just not sure if it includes replacement hose for those plastic lines or not.
Thanks!
Tim

Curious about that too, I think the replacement silicone kits are only for the soft hoses on the car and I've wondered before about replacing the hard plastic lines.
 
Anyone?
Know of a replacement for the OEM hard plastic vacuum lines under the hood?

Thanks!
Tim
 
the self help center in the Auto fast food stores have the replace plastic vacuum lines in a big roll. You need to warm it up a little so you can form it. But if they don't leak, don't play with them ;)
 
Thanks.
Just wanted to be sure there wasn't a known kit out there already. I plan on spraying them with some water while idling to see if any are "...definitely sucking..." Before I start replacing them, but the rubber lines are getting 100% replaced.
I know a few guys just rolled their eyes at me and said, "Yeah right." Since they told me months ago to do this and I only replaced the ones that were obviously bad.

What should the idle vacuum for a stock motor be? Shouldn't I see evidence of a vacuum leak in a low vac reading at idle?
 
17-20 hg of vac on idle and no you wouldn't always see it on the gauge. I blow off the EGR vacuum control solenoid all the time and don't see any difference in idle vac. Driving yes I see a difference....
 
Definitely sounds like the MAF died. Get that checked out quick. Good job on the header job. Ive gotta pick my spare up from my buddies shop and get it on. Might send it out to get coated, not sure yet.

Jim is right on the elbow. Go ahead and port that for a nice gain. Its cast iron, so it'll take a while. Port the intercooler while your at it too, along with the upper plenum as well. Get a billet inlet bell and port match the compressor housing. Not hard, just gonna take a while.

And do those vac lines already...
 
Tim,

If ya want I can send you over an elbow ported and just ship yours back to me to save you time.

Lemme know

Mike
 
Tim,

If ya want I can send you over an elbow ported and just ship yours back to me to save you time.

Lemme know

Mike

Thanks, Mike.
I might take you up on that once I get this KR issue isolated and fixed.
You got that Paypal payment for the Adj WG actuator, right?

Hey, scojack,
I borrowed a known good MAF from Spoolfool a couple weeks back. That's not the issue, but thanks for the input.

I am suspecting the MAP, tho'. My understanding is I can check the MAP by disconnecting the vacuum line and plugging it with something, then driving the car to see if the issue is still there. True?
 
oh yeah, best 20 bucks you spent so far:biggrin:

When you get a chance, pull off your PCV hose and see if its nasty and dripping oil
 
oh yeah, best 20 bucks you spent so far:biggrin:

When you get a chance, pull off your PCV hose and see if its nasty and dripping oil

Definitely money well spent. I just want to get past this KR issue so I can try more boost. Currently at 16lbs. TT chip is burned for 15-17 on 91 octane.

I'll check that out.
I actually replaced the PCV a couple months back when I did my injector swap. I don't recall the hose being gunked up.

Tim
 
I'm guessing that your fuel pressure is at 43psi line off, try bumping it up a 1 or 2. or better yet, get some race gas and mix it in.
 
I'm guessing that your fuel pressure is at 43psi line off, try bumping it up a 1 or 2. or better yet, get some race gas and mix it in.

You are correct, sir.
I'll give a pressure bump a shot.

There is a station near by with 102 octane, but it's over $6/gallon....I might as well start driving my 68 Camaro with the ZZ502 getting 5-8 mpg more often and park the GN to save on gas $. The Camaro, my sunny Friday and weekend driver, is making roughly 550HP/575TQ and runs GREAT and knockataping free on 91 octane. Smokes the tires all the way through 3rd gear and pulls non stop to 140+. It'll go faster...that's just the fastest it's been so far.

I'm pretty sure there is just something wrong that I have not isolated yet, because I was running for a couple weeks with no KR, other than an occasional 1.0 -1.5 reading, before this started back up, so as soon as I find that issue....I'll stop my sniveling.

Once I fix it, first things on the upgrade list is the cat back exhaust, exhaust elbow porting, Razor alky and RJC power plate, Dutt neck on the IC, cold air kit.....the list continues....until the tranny breaks and then....

Tim
 
The race fuel will rule out some stuff, bad gas for one. if you mix half/half and it goes away. it maybe timing/fuel related, if it doesn't go away :eek:
Pull your tubo to IC hose off and look for oil. To get it back on put a little liquid soap in the inside of the hose. ;)

Oh and I know someone that builds a killer trans, does great wires too. :D
 
The race fuel will rule out some stuff, bad gas for one. if you mix half/half and it goes away. it maybe timing/fuel related, if it doesn't go away :eek:
Pull your tubo to IC hose off and look for oil. To get it back on put a little liquid soap in the inside of the hose. ;)

Oh and I know someone that builds a killer trans, does great wires too. :D

Thanks,
I'll check the Turbo to IC hose among other things next chance I get.

I did pull the turbo inlet hose and checked for end play etc. Seemed pretty solid.

I've been running Chevron Premium only. Next time I get down a half tank, I'll run down to that Union station and get robbed for a half tank of 102 octane.:eek:
 
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