Where's the power? Part duex.

[meanchicken]

I finally ordered the 160 deg stat, water neck, breather bypass and IC hose kit today. As soon as that stuff gets here I'll pull the IC and give it its first cleaning in 20 years. I'm guessing I'll find 4-5 qts of 10W30 in there.

...and at the rate I move along...it otta take me about 3 months to install this stuff.

I also tried some 100 octane gas today. I was at a quarter tank of 91 and added a little over 3 gallons of the 100....it was friggin $8.99 a gallon.

I did several WOT pulls and only got 0.5 KR at 79mph one time.

...getting closer to being there...

I'll be ordering the Hooker cat back soon also......possibly a high flow cat too...

 

[BlackMetal]

I also need to replace the three check ball fittings just for sanity sake.
Spoolfool schooled me on these getting sticky with age and creating vacuum leaks when they malfunction.



Tim

Where are these located? I'm slowly conserving energy for the next few weeks because sooner or later I have to go out to the garage and face my GN with its wimpy 12" of vacuum. Gauge always used to show 15-16" vacuum and then out of the blue I lost some of it. Already planning on replacing all the lines but not sure which check balls you're referring to. Want to gather as many tips as possible before I dive into this problem.

As for the problems you are still fighting, I haven't read every single post in this thread, but have you installed an RJC powerplate? At one point in time I was also chasing a constant knock problem and the RJC plate really does help.

 

[scojack_2001]

I finally ordered the 160 deg stat, water neck, breather bypass and IC hose kit today. As soon as that stuff gets here I'll pull the IC and give it its first cleaning in 20 years. I'm guessing I'll find 4-5 qts of 10W30 in there.

...and at the rate I move along...it otta take me about 3 months to install this stuff.

I also tried some 100 octane gas today. I was at a quarter tank of 91 and added a little over 3 gallons of the 100....it was friggin $8.99 a gallon.

I did several WOT pulls and only got 0.5 KR at 79mph one time.

...getting closer to being there...

I'll be ordering the Hooker cat back soon also......possibly a high flow cat too...

Sounds like some solid progress. I havent driven mine in two weeks. Weathers been nasty here.

The Hooker catback comes with a testpipe. Be sure you get one with the AeroChamber mufflers, they flow better and sound better than the Turbos do. Might consider RJC PowerPlate. You should port that IC while its out, along with the plenum if you take it off. Not hard to do, just need a steady hand.

Where are these located? I'm slowly conserving energy for the next few weeks because sooner or later I have to go out to the garage and face my GN with its wimpy 12" of vacuum. Gauge always used to show 15-16" vacuum and then out of the blue I lost some of it. Already planning on replacing all the lines but not sure which check balls you're referring to. Want to gather as many tips as possible before I dive into this problem.

As for the problems you are still fighting, I haven't read every single post in this thread, but have you installed an RJC powerplate? At one point in time I was also chasing a constant knock problem and the RJC plate really does help.

You have one check valve by the EGR, one by the firewall (3-port), and one by the vacuum canister. Also check all your vac lines. I dont seem to have a problem with the vac brakes on my GN (Master Power kit).

HTH.

Scott

 

[Ttype83]

I finally ordered the 160 deg stat, water neck, breather bypass and IC hose kit today. As soon as that stuff gets here I'll pull the IC and give it its first cleaning in 20 years. I'm guessing I'll find 4-5 qts of 10W30 in there.

...and at the rate I move along...it otta take me about 3 months to install this stuff.

I also tried some 100 octane gas today. I was at a quarter tank of 91 and added a little over 3 gallons of the 100....it was friggin $8.99 a gallon.

I did several WOT pulls and only got 0.5 KR at 79mph one time.

...getting closer to being there...
I'll be ordering the Hooker cat back soon also......possibly a high flow cat too...

I went with a 3" single shot exhaust sold by a member here (Grumpy) I used the 3 chamber super turbo muffler, but i'm going to change it to a 2 chamber.
Best cat made "RANDOM Technology"

 

[meanchicken]

Yup...those are the three check valves I'm talking about. I guess the one at the EGR is most prone to fail due to heat exposure, but all three should be checked and/or replaced as part of any spring cleaning effort.

I did a search and found a seperate string that says where to buy some. I've also heard more than once that getting one in line with the PCV is wise too.

The Hooker cat back system from Jegs says aerochambers and the one from Summit says turbo mufflers. They have the same Hooker part number, but...Jegs it is then.....but I heard elsewhere that Hooker will only ship aerochambers now any way.

I'm toying with ordering the RJC power plate right now also. You just gave me another reason why I should. I sure aint gonna make a habit of paying $9 per gallon for 100 octane.

Anyone havde pix of what a ported IC and plenum look like? I have a habit of overkill if I don't have pretty pictures to use as a guide line.

I decided last night to hold off on the cat until I'm ready for a larger diammeter down pipe. Doesn't make sense to buy twice.

Tim

 

[BlackMetal]

I have Aerochambers on my car and they sound mean.

RJC plate is definitely worth it. After fuel system upgrades and a bunch of other stuff I was still seeing 3-5 degrees KR, with the plate it took care of it.

 

[Junior Samples]

Tim,

I had Steve Monroe do my Throttle body to 62 mm and i ported my dog house my self but did notice smoother idle with tad more vac so i can prolly assume that my TB was leaking a bit at the shaft but thats speculation.

you for sure need a 3inch DP through RJC $450 with cut out
and Alky and that should cure it

 

[QUIP'6']

Yup...those are the three check valves I'm talking about. I guess the one at the EGR is most prone to fail due to heat exposure, but all three should be checked and/or replaced as part of any spring cleaning effort.

I did a search and found a seperate string that says where to buy some. I've also heard more than once that getting one in line with the PCV is wise too.

The Hooker cat back system from Jegs says aerochambers and the one from Summit says turbo mufflers. They have the same Hooker part number, but...Jegs it is then.....but I heard elsewhere that Hooker will only ship aerochambers now any way.

I'm toying with ordering the RJC power plate right now also. You just gave me another reason why I should. I sure aint gonna make a habit of paying $9 per gallon for 100 octane.

Anyone havde pix of what a ported IC and plenum look like? I have a habit of overkill if I don't have pretty pictures to use as a guide line.

I decided last night to hold off on the cat until I'm ready for a larger diammeter down pipe. Doesn't make sense to buy twice.

Tim

hers some factory 1/4 inch check valves for you the triple one can be purchased at advanced auto. Casper's Electronics, Inc.: "Vacuum Check Valve 1/4"" " or you can get these ones alot cheaper and what i run. Liquid/Gas Check Valves - US Plastic Corporation

 

[meanchicken]

hers some factory 1/4 inch check valves for you the triple one can be purchased at advanced auto. Casper's Electronics, Inc.: "Vacuum Check Valve 1/4"" " or you can get these ones alot cheaper and what i run. Liquid/Gas Check Valves - US Plastic Corporation

Thanks, man!
How about the three way one up closer to the fire wall just above the valve cover?

 

[meanchicken]

Thanks, man!
How about the three way one up closer to the fire wall just above the valve cover?

Nevermind...I just saw you already answered this....

 

[scojack_2001]

Yup...those are the three check valves I'm talking about. I guess the one at the EGR is most prone to fail due to heat exposure, but all three should be checked and/or replaced as part of any spring cleaning effort.

I did a search and found a seperate string that says where to buy some. I've also heard more than once that getting one in line with the PCV is wise too.

The Hooker cat back system from Jegs says aerochambers and the one from Summit says turbo mufflers. They have the same Hooker part number, but...Jegs it is then.....but I heard elsewhere that Hooker will only ship aerochambers now any way.

I'm toying with ordering the RJC power plate right now also. You just gave me another reason why I should. I sure aint gonna make a habit of paying $9 per gallon for 100 octane.

Anyone havde pix of what a ported IC and plenum look like? I have a habit of overkill if I don't have pretty pictures to use as a guide line.

I decided last night to hold off on the cat until I'm ready for a larger diammeter down pipe. Doesn't make sense to buy twice.

Tim

Basically all you want to do is gasket-match the TB to the plenum. There is a little bit of a ridge there. Just go slow and dont take too much material out. And I agree, the 62mm TB would be a nice upgrade, and its not too terrible expensive. I'll be getting on of those soon enough. Might even consider a IAC adapter to make adjusting it easier. Im not too fond of the way the plug wiring is on the original. And +1 on the PowerPlate as well. One of the best products to help eliminate knock. Its a rescriction, yes; but it evens out the airflow to all six cylinders for a even power distribution. And a in-line PCV checkvalve is always a cheap insurance policy. You can also port the compressor housing for a bit of a gain as well, and a billet inlet will make it look pretty. I gained 2psi total with all the stuff ported (turbo, IC, & plenum). I am currently running a PowerPlate.

 

[meanchicken]

Well the the Hooker exhaust is on hold for a bit longer....my rear brakes reminded me today that they need an overhaul. It was a nice day out so I had both windows down while I was driving. From the passenger rear, I could here the chatter of bad brakes and it was real loud. I hadn't noticed this before today, but I did know the rear brakes were pretty well worn.

So I hit NAPA and picked up everything I need to overhaul them this weekend. Also found one of the three way check valves there.

 

[BlackMetal]

Thanks for the leads on where to get the check valves, I will add those to the list of suspects for my missing vacuum.

So far... replace 20yr old vacuum lines, delete EGR setup, inspect/replace check valves.

Hopefully I get lucky otherwise you'll be seeing a new thread "Where's the vacuum?".

 

[meanchicken]

Thanks for the leads on where to get the check valves, I will add those to the list of suspects for my missing vacuum.

So far... replace 20yr old vacuum lines, delete EGR setup, inspect/replace check valves.

Hopefully I get lucky otherwise you'll be seeing a new thread "Where's the vacuum?".

LOL
I hear you, man.
Reminds me of that VW commersial with the mod German guy and girl inspecting the "tuner" car before they destroy it with a wrecking ball. While I look for hidden vacuum leaks, I often do and say the same thing the girl did when she was listening to the tuner's hood scoop.
Bend over, listen carefully...
"It's definitely...sucking..."

 

[jhanson1750]

Just as a note the RJC power plate is NOT a flow restriction! If you measure the size of all the opening on it vs the size of the tb you will see. It is a "flow direction device". Not trying to start an argument just want him to have the facts. I saw a huge diffrence in my 86' with the install no more KR and seemed to make more power on the "booty dyno". Jon Hanson

 

[meanchicken]

Here's an update.
I finally cleaned the IC, replaced the IC hoses, put an open element breather on the passenger valve cover and installed the 160* stat.

That IC was nasty! I first rinsed it with Simple green, but still had some oily sludge come out after that, so I pumped it full of 2 cans of carb cleaner and that did the trick.

One of the 20 year old IC hoses had a samll hole in it from the hose clamp being too tight for so long.

Up pipe and throttle body were an oily mess, so I cleaned those also.

I also replaced the vacuum check valves with a generic 3 way from NAPA and a couple of one ways from US Plastic. I installed the US plastic valves by pointing the cone shaped end towards the vacuum source....correct?

I drove the car today, in the morning I watched the temp on the ScanMaster. It would drift back and forth between 160-170 once warmed up. Did a few WOTs and the KR stayed at less than 3.0, so it's improved, but still needs something else. Next is an RJC Power Plate. I already know that adding in 100 octane makes the KR go away, so I'm confident that what I'm seeing is all about this weak Cali gas. After the Power Plate, I'll get the Hooker exhaust and then Alky.

On the way home from work this afternoon, the temp for some reason climbed and hovered around 195, then got as high a 206 and then eventually went back down to the low 180's. I stopped and checked things out when it was up over 200 (it stayed on 201 for about 5 minutes straight without changing a degree), and the radiator and engine really didn't seem that hot, in fact it felt cooler than it used to when I had the 180* stat in there so I figured the temp sensor is whacked. When I got home, the temp was at 193. I took a closer look at the temp sensor and it looks like I might have damaged it during the water neck removal wrastlin' match. The plastic body is broken at the electrode. So I'll need to get a new one.

Coolant level is normal and when I popped the radiator cap while hot, it didn't even purge into the overflow tank, so I know the engine was not getting as hot as the readings were saying.

 

[Underboost]

That's good Tim just get that temp switch fixed and you'll be good. The power plate just might get rid of that 3* of knock. Let me know if you still want mine.

 

[meanchicken]

That's good Tim just get that temp switch fixed and you'll be good. The power plate just might get rid of that 3* of knock. Let me know if you still want mine.

Hey Brent....you have a PM about that RJC Powerplate.

 

[scojack_2001]

Here's an update.
I finally cleaned the IC, replaced the IC hoses, put an open element breather on the passenger valve cover and installed the 160* stat.

That IC was nasty! I first rinsed it with Simple green, but still had some oily sludge come out after that, so I pumped it full of 2 cans of carb cleaner and that did the trick.

One of the 20 year old IC hoses had a samll hole in it from the hose clamp being too tight for so long.

Up pipe and throttle body were an oily mess, so I cleaned those also.

I also replaced the vacuum check valves with a generic 3 way from NAPA and a couple of one ways from US Plastic. I installed the US plastic valves by pointing the cone shaped end towards the vacuum source....correct?

I drove the car today, in the morning I watched the temp on the ScanMaster. It would drift back and forth between 160-170 once warmed up. Did a few WOTs and the KR stayed at less than 3.0, so it's improved, but still needs something else. Next is an RJC Power Plate. I already know that adding in 100 octane makes the KR go away, so I'm confident that what I'm seeing is all about this weak Cali gas. After the Power Plate, I'll get the Hooker exhaust and then Alky.

On the way home from work this afternoon, the temp for some reason climbed and hovered around 195, then got as high a 206 and then eventually went back down to the low 180's. I stopped and checked things out when it was up over 200 (it stayed on 201 for about 5 minutes straight without changing a degree), and the radiator and engine really didn't seem that hot, in fact it felt cooler than it used to when I had the 180* stat in there so I figured the temp sensor is whacked. When I got home, the temp was at 193. I took a closer look at the temp sensor and it looks like I might have damaged it during the water neck removal wrastlin' match. The plastic body is broken at the electrode. So I'll need to get a new one.

Coolant level is normal and when I popped the radiator cap while hot, it didn't even purge into the overflow tank, so I know the engine was not getting as hot as the readings were saying.

Nice progess.

Might want to turn the heat on and recheck the coolant level. I had my engine apart to do the timing chain and it took a while to get all the air pockets out.

Did you clean the fins of the IC too? I know you probably did, but that can cause as many problems as having the inside full of oil. You did port it, right? Port the plenum the next time its off too. I'd go with a downpipe to complement the catback exhaust, but thats just me. I have a THDP on my GN, but I like the TA downpipe as well. Alcohol is a whole nother game...

I just ran a 11.98@111 on pump gas (87/104 mix ) and alchy, through the pipes (Hooker), at 26psi on bald MT DRs. On a 40° day though.


Sj

 

[meanchicken]

Nice progess.

Might want to turn the heat on and recheck the coolant level. I had my engine apart to do the timing chain and it took a while to get all the air pockets out.

Did you clean the fins of the IC too? I know you probably did, but that can cause as many problems as having the inside full of oil. You did port it, right? Port the plenum the next time its off too. I'd go with a downpipe to complement the catback exhaust, but thats just me. I have a THDP on my GN, but I like the TA downpipe as well. Alcohol is a whole nother game...

I just ran a 11.98@111 on pump gas (87/104 mix ) and alchy, through the pipes (Hooker), at 26psi on bald MT DRs. On a 40° day though.


Sj

Ya...I ran the heater for about 20 minutes when the engine temp was up. It wasn't blowing very hot either, so...another indication that the coolant most likely isn't that hot.

Yup...I picked all the dead bugs and other bits out of the IC fins.

I didn't do the porting yet. I'm trying to change one or two things at a time, learn from it, then try something else. It's a slow process, but I am learning a lot and the car is gradually getting quicker and smoother running.

I spanked a base model 04 Saleen tonight from a roll. They aren't that quick....only good for a 14.9 out of the box (GT with a trim package is all they are), but it sounded like he'd done a little to it so maybe he was a little quicker than that.

I got the new temp sender today, so I'll replace that next time I'm on the car.
Then it's time for that RJC Power Plate.:biggrin: ...which I'll most likely buy form Underboost. I went and asked him "How much?" hoping he'd say "Free since you're such a happenin' dude, Tim."
.....but he wants actual $ for it.
So now I gotta ask my wife for my allowance early....:redface: I'm washing a lot of dishes this week and even picked up the dog crap and took out the garbage without being told, tonight
tsk, tsk, tsk....I thought we were buddies, Brent!
Am I just a big ol' dollar sign to you?

After I do the cat back and alky...then it's the down pipe or the cold air intake....toss up at this point.

After all the above and a Dutt neck (I'm staying stock location IC) I'll start with porting IC, Plenum, Elbow, etc to see what they add on top of the bolt ons.

Assuming the trans lives through all the above, I should be good for low 12's at that point. Low 12's or into the 11's is all I'm after.

Nice run by the way!
40*?
Man!
I hope you had your mittons on!
I dipped into the 70's today here in So Cali!
Brrrrrrrrrrr.....
:tongue:
Tim