Where's the power?

[TURBOELKY]

and this guy better have put that scanmaster on by now, it only takes 5 minutes !!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Junior Samples]

tell me about it, was the very first thing i got before i even hit the peddle, then knock and boost gauge, he should have post on here by sunday

 

[meanchicken]

and this guy better have put that scanmaster on by now, it only takes 5 minutes !!!!!!!!!!!

:biggrin: It'll be the first thing I do when I get back home on Sunday...I promise.

 

[meanchicken]

OK...Scanmaster is now installed.

It was a litte scary at first cuz I installed it upside down...but I was able to figure it out on my own ... quickly flipped it over and all is good.

I have not powered back up yet as I'm going under the car and installing the hotwire now.

Stay tuned...

 

[graza002]

OK...Scanmaster is now installed.

It was a litte scary at first cuz I installed it upside down...but I was able to figure it out on my own ... quickly flipped it over and all is good.

I have not powered back up yet as I'm going under the car and installing the hotwire now.

Stay tuned...

Are you running an after market fuel pump? If so which one? Sounds like you have been busy working on this thing.

 

[TURBOELKY]

OK...Scanmaster is now installed.

It was a litte scary at first cuz I installed it upside down...but I was able to figure it out on my own ... quickly flipped it over and all is good.

I have not powered back up yet as I'm going under the car and installing the hotwire now.

Stay tuned...

good, now we can see if all the poppety bang bang was knock, and if it was

 

[meanchicken]

Yup. I installed a Walbro a couple weeks back.

Hotwire is in.
Car starys and idles fine.
Recheckeed the fuel pressure and it's at 43 hose off...38 hose on.
I'm gonna go driving to let the computer re-learn.

Tell me what you guys need to know from my ScanMaster.

Tim

 

[INEEDAGN]

Leaving the wrapper on a battery doesn't allow it to vent properly.

When you get everything else installed and some fresh gas is in it, replace your o2 sensor. Bad gas and fuel additives (five across the eyes again) will kill an o2 sensor and make it too slow to respond. Made a huge difference when I first bought my car. I actually have a "new gas" and an "old gas" 02 sensor. Put the old one in when I park it for the winter and use it for periodic starts and for that first tank of 5 month old gas in the spring. I used to just put a new one in every spring but now I think I will stretch it 2-3 years (3k miles). Other than that you are on the right track.

 

[TURBOELKY]

Leaving the wrapper on a battery doesn't allow it to vent properly.

When you get everything else installed and some fresh gas is in it, replace your o2 sensor. Bad gas and fuel additives (five across the eyes again) will kill an o2 sensor and make it too slow to respond. Made a huge difference when I first bought my car. I actually have a "new gas" and an "old gas" 02 sensor. Put the old one in when I park it for the winter and use it for periodic starts and for that first tank of 5 month old gas in the spring. I used to just put a new one in every spring but now I think I will stretch it 2-3 years (3k miles). Other than that you are on the right track.

good advice on the 02! mosst batteries are'nt wrapped anyways, at least my optima was'nt. I was jokin but I did'nt know about the breathing part

 

[TURBOELKY]

Yup. I installed a Walbro a couple weeks back.

Hotwire is in.
Car starys and idles fine.
Recheckeed the fuel pressure and it's at 43 hose off...38 hose on.
I'm gonna go driving to let the computer re-learn.

Tell me what you guys need to know from my ScanMaster.

Tim

what your o2 counts are when you full throttle, and how much knock.

 

[Junior Samples]

Tim,

your O2's will show up as CC on scanmaster thats your cross counts. At idle you should have a minimum of 10 CC's per min. where your CC's cycle then repeat
At 2500r's about 25+ CC's
I think thats correct as read from GSXtra vol XVII
if youve gummed up your O2 with that magic snake oil then you'll know

Your BLM block learn is ecm adding or subtracting fuel as needed...under 128 your running rich and ecm is pulling fuel, over 128 then lean and adding.

get reading on you TPS closed and wot, car warm engine off

IAC Idle air control...while idle'n could be ..well who knows..lol some say say 5 to 20, 10 to 20 15 to 30, mines at around 22 but if its idle'n fine then leave it...thats the little screw at throttle. but if you have tinkered with it then you will have to reset your TPS

guess we'll see when the numbers post did you ever get adjustable wastegate? and i hope he got a real boost gauge as well

 

[graza002]

Yup. I installed a Walbro a couple weeks back.

Hotwire is in.
Car starys and idles fine.
Recheckeed the fuel pressure and it's at 43 hose off...38 hose on.
I'm gonna go driving to let the computer re-learn.

Tell me what you guys need to know from my ScanMaster.

Tim

Thats a good fuel pump. I use to run one of those.

At WOT O2's in the range from 760's (lean side) to 820's (rich side).

KR aim for 0.

At WOT hold both buttons of the Scan Master to record the KR and 02's. To recall push recall, but if you push both buttons again you will see the MPH of which the recording was taken place.

 

[meanchicken]

Fresh tank of 91 octane Chevron gas. I stopped adding the additives a couple tanks ago, so they should be out of the system now.

Cruised around for about 20 minutes just watching the O2 counts on my SM. buggers seem to jump around a lot....normal?
Usually settles in in the 750-780 range but also would go up over 800 and down below 100 when idling to a stop from speed. I'll get another read on them at WOT (I think they were high 700's but was focusing more on the KR).

The KR stays at 0 until I WOT. Then it goes nuts. I did two WOT pulls. One from a stop....I floored the peddle and the knock was still quite audible at the top of 1st...not as bad as before the hotwire...and the KR was real high at the top of 1st...12.2.
I pulled out of it and then from about 40mph just eased the throttle in. The knock was still slightly audible and the KR would mostly stay at 0 until I got to WOT and then occasionally blip up around 4-5...I let back out of it and stayed out of the throttle from then on. I gotta figure out this kockin' thing.

I didn't take any of the secondary functions down while driving (I will next time), but at idle after driving around, here they are:
O2 all over at start up....mostly in the mid 400's but then settles in at 750-780.
KR = 0
AF = 05
L8 = 35-38
Bat = 13.6 (shouldn't this be higher?)
Int = 128
bl = 124
Clt = 187
Ats = 106
r = 825
Tps = .44 at idle and .42 with engine off. WOT engine off and floor mat out= 4.36
IAC = 37
cc = 163
nal = 00
Oh...Water temp = 200.

After my drive, I remembered to also check the WG rod. It's solid. No movement at all when I tried to move it by hand. I did find the hose from the WG was a little loose on the fitting at the other end on top of the valve cover. It wasn't off the fitting, but it was not al the way on either. Dunno if that was causing anything, but will find out next time I drive it.

I'm still running 43psi fuel pressure...should I bump it up? How high?

 

[TURBOELKY]

your bat is good
tps is perfect
it all looks good to me, but others i'm sure are better with exact explinations.
I think your running a little hot,

if your getting that much knock, you definately have an issue. your either over boosting, or there's something else going on. your o2's were ok at wot, so your getting fuel. I forgot, is your turbo stock or bigger than stock? maybe you need to check your wastegate, maybe its not opening. did you get that boost gauge on there yet? like in one of my posts to you, your probably over boosting. This reminds me of a dudes car I work on, here's the story.

I do some mods to his car, front mount, external wastegate, down pipe, injectors, older reds chip he did'nt want to replace (cheap ass) and a full tune up. I leave the boost controller down, where the car only boosts about 12 psi, and dont see the car for about 6 months. When I get back to working on his cars, I take the car out, and I have to put in my scanmaster because he's too cheap to buy one, or too stubborn because he has 10 other cars, all with small blocks and big blocks, and he thinks he can do this gn the same. anyways, the boostcontroller was ALLLLL the way up, his brother in law took
it down the street and did a burn out for 200 ft he told me. How funny. When I took it out, it was knocking like crazy, and the tranny was broke! thats what happens.

if you need help, i'd gladly help get your car runing decent, but i'm a little drive out. You need to get somebody local to help you before your rebuilding that engine before you have fun with it. Or go drop it off with Lou! but if you dont have that boost gauge on there by the end of the week, were coming to get you

 

[meanchicken]

your bat is good
tps is perfect
it all looks good to me, but others i'm sure are better with exact explinations.
I think your running a little hot,

if your getting that much knock, you definately have an issue. your either over boosting, or there's something else going on. your o2's were ok at wot, so your getting fuel. I forgot, is your turbo stock or bigger than stock? maybe you need to check your wastegate, maybe its not opening. did you get that boost gauge on there yet? like in one of my posts to you, your probably over boosting. This reminds me of a dudes car I work on, here's the story.

if you need help, i'd gladly help get your car runing decent, but i'm a little drive out. You need to get somebody local to help you before your rebuilding that engine before you have fun with it. Or go drop it off with Lou! but if you dont have that boost gauge on there by the end of the week, were coming to get you

Thanks.
I'm pretty sure it's the stock turbo. Is there an easy way to confirm?

I'm thinking it has to have something to do with the tune in the TT chip. Here's why...
I had some knock/ping prior to the new fuel pump, but the new Walbro almost eliminated it.
Next thing I did was the 60lb injectors and TT chip. Then the knock/ping got worse than it ever had been.
Is it normal for the O2's to vary all over the place with periods of stability at the mromal mid-high 700's.

Next item to purchase is definitely the Boost gauge. I promise. Until then I'll keep my foot out of it and keep the KR at 0. After I get the gauge on there, I'll either take a couple of the locals up on their offers or be going over to see Lou. I just want to be sure I've got everything else in order before I make that 10 minute drive to go see him.

How do I tweak the TT chip?
Is this a laptop and software package thing that I need to get?
Is it possible for me to disconnect the WG? Will wathcing things at WOT with the WG disconnected tell me anything about my knock issue?

 

[graza002]

KR = 0
AF = 05
L8 = 35-38
Bat = 13.6 (shouldn't this be higher?)
Int = 128
bl = 124
Clt = 187
Ats = 106
r = 825
Tps = .44 at idle and .42 with engine off. WOT engine off and floor mat out= 4.36
IAC = 37
cc = 163
nal = 00
Oh...Water temp = 200.

Like TurboElky said, your TPS is dead on.

KR is high, 12.2 will kill a HG.

RPM at 825 is good.

Bl are good, and your Volts are good (I know it looks low) Mine sits the same as yours.

Your CLT is pretty warm at 187-200 in this cool weather. What temp t-stat are you running? If it is stock order a 160 degree. Those are avail. from any vendor on this site. The hottest I have ever seen in my car was 201 degrees going up the grapevine in 110 degree weather. For the most part I run right at 164-173 with the RJC FMIC on my car.

Are you still running the stock injectors? Chip? (I am sure you already stated but I forgot) Also, did you get a boost gauge yet?

 

[graza002]

Thanks.
I'm pretty sure it's the stock turbo. Is there an easy way to confirm?

I'm thinking it has to have something to do with the tune in the TT chip. Here's why...
I had some knock/ping prior to the new fuel pump, but the new Walbro almost eliminated it.
Next thing I did was the 60lb injectors and TT chip. Then the knock/ping got worse than it ever had been.
Is it normal for the O2's to vary all over the place with periods of stability at the mromal mid-high 700's.

Next item to purchase is definitely the Boost gauge. I promise. Until then I'll keep my foot out of it and keep the KR at 0. After I get the gauge on there, I'll either take a couple of the locals up on their offers or be going over to see Lou. I just want to be sure I've got everything else in order before I make that 10 minute drive to go see him.

How do I tweak the TT chip?
Is this a laptop and software package thing that I need to get?
Is it possible for me to disconnect the WG? Will wathcing things at WOT with the WG disconnected tell me anything about my knock issue?

A Stock, TA-49, TA-60 and TA-61 all look close to the naked eye. There are guys on this site who can tell the difference. To me they all look the same.

KR is from too much boost and or low fuel delivery OR timing.

So your already running new 60lb injectors and a TT chip?

The TT chip can be adjusted through the Scan Master from what I have been told. I don't have a TT chip, I am currently running Lou's chip.

Next questions, did you get an alky or 100+ oct or race chip? What is the timing on the chip?

 

[meanchicken]

Howdy,
The Clt at 187 was after I had shut the engine down and let the fan run for a few....
When I first checked it after getting back and before shutting down, it was 200. It's a pretty cool night, so I'm surprised it gets this hot. My ZZ502 in my 68 Camaro only hits 180F....200-210F on a hot day.

It's most likely the stock thermostat, so when I order that boost gauge, I'll order the 160F stat also, and a FP gauge on an extension.

New TT chip with 60lb injectors, installed last week in place of the original 28lb injectors and a no name old school chip.

Thanks!
Tim

 

[graza002]

Howdy,
The Clt at 187 was after I had shut the engine down and let the fan run for a few....
When I first checked it after getting back and before shutting down, it was 200. It's a pretty cool night, so I'm surprised it gets this hot. My ZZ502 in my 68 Camaro only hits 180F....200-210F on a hot day.

It's most likely the stock thermostat, so when I order that boost gauge, I'll order the 160F stat also, and a FP gauge on an extension.

New TT chip with 60lb injectors, installed last week in place of the original 28lb injectors and a no name old school chip.

Thanks!
Tim

You may want to Call Eric from TT to verify the specs of your specific chip. He is a good guy to deal with.

A fuel PSI gauge on an extension is a good thing just to make sure your fuel pump is not falling on its face at WOT.

 

[meanchicken]

A Stock, TA-49, TA-60 and TA-61 all look close to the naked eye. There are guys on this site who can tell the difference. To me they all look the same.

KR is from too much boost and or low fuel delivery OR timing.

So your already running new 60lb injectors and a TT chip?

The TT chip can be adjusted through the Scan Master from what I have been told. I don't have a TT chip, I am currently running Lou's chip.

Next questions, did you get an alky or 100+ oct or race chip? What is the timing on the chip?

It's a street chip.
When ordering, I asked for 15-17 lb boost range on 91 octane and stated a low 12 high 11 second plan. Stock intercooler, stock turbo, etc. Not sure what the timing on the chip is. Is this written on the chip label?