Where's the power?

[graza002]

Is this written on the chip label?

Should be, if not call Eric to confirm.

 

[TURBOELKY]

the 02's jumping around are normal, dont worry about that. They will be steady when at wot, or somewhat steady. i'm sure the chip is ok, I had knock problems with my stock turbo when I first got it. it was a fuel problem though. if you took the wastegate off, the car would run, just would'nt build much boost, if any. I drove my car once like that, it was redicilous how little power it had without the turbo kicking in you probably could try that, and floor it. should'nt knock at all, it might run rich though, not sure. is your waste gate silinoid hooked up properly? its on the passenger side valve cover, should have a y in line to the turbo compressor housing, one to the wastegate.

 

[Junior Samples]

Don't worry…… the unit is SUPPOSED to be flashing constantly changing O2 sensor values. The sensor is extremely sensitive at an A/F ratio of 14.7:1. Go very slightly richer than that (14.6:1) and the voltage can soar to 700mV. Go very slightly leaner than 14.7:1 (say 14.8:1) and the sensor output voltage plummets to 200mV. Since the PCM is constantly juggling the fuel up and down to keep it right at 14.7:1, the voltage is going to jump up and down too. So, you will see that, since the PCM updates it's calculations nearly 10 times per second, the O2 sensor voltages are going to be cycling rapidly back and forth between 100 and 800mV, and you might even see values as low as 050 mV, and as high as 950 mV.
Scanmaster info, sensors etc…


And you should have instructions as to tweaking your chip, turn car power on and 3 quick pedal snaps 3rd snap hold, scanM should be set in Load then switch over to BL and it will cycle 1 to 4 , er somthin like that..anyway refer to instructions its easy, maybe add some fuel and pull some timing

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

The vacuum lines are probably dry rotted, which is causing the turbo to overboost. Which is why you are still getting knock on the scanmaster. Do a search for a thread on vacuum lines, and someone on here has listed how much length of line and which diameters. There is also a chance that if your vacuum lines are fresh, that the wastgate actuator is no good.
Also the throttle position sensor should be around 4.85 @ wide open throttle, it should have thrown a code (21) and caused the "check engine soon" light to come on.
I got a set of silicone vacuum lines from "Gbodyparts.com".
When you had the injectors out, that would have been a great time to replace/inspect the lines. Pay particular attention to the line that hooks up to the turbo, that gets a lot of heat and is usually one of the first to go.
Your are getting there, and your doing it the right way, good luck with your new ride.
Oh by the way once the car gets into the low to mid 12's the tranny will go bad, ask me how I know....

Chuck

 

["Turbo-T"]

[/IMG]

See the little black cylinder contained in the red circle? thats your fuel pressure regulator. all gn's have a little black cylinder lookin thingy there. Whether or not its adjustable, depends on if the previous owner installed one. see the little screw contained within the yellow circle on top of the pressure reg.? if you dont have a screw there, yours isnt adjustable.

If theres no screw, put this on your christmas list. ALL buicks MUST have one. Thats not an option.

Mine's got a rubber hose attached to the end of it....

I guess I need to remove the hose and see?

 

[Underboost]

If your seeing 780-800 on the O2's at WOT and you have knock then turn the boost down your octaine is to low. If your O2's are low like at 600 at WOT your lean and need to add fuel. With the TT Chip always max out the chip fuel first before raising fuel psi at the regulator from 43. If you do not have an adjustable wastegate on the turbo and it's pegging your dash boost gauge then its a good chance your wastegate solenoid is bad that's the thing on your passenger side valve cover. Hope this helps.

 

[Junior Samples]

Mine's got a rubber hose attached to the end of it...
I guess I need to remove the hose and see?

you got stock reg... spend spend spend

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks, Turbo6smackdown the link didn't go thru but I think you meant this one right?:

BILLET ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REG
List Price: $99.00
Item Code: 001BUREG
Weight: 1.00LB
Brands: FULL THROTTLE SPEED & STYLE
Categories: Buick Fuel Pressure Regs & Fuel Rails
Description

Buick Billet Adjustable FP Regulator
This all billet high flow adjustable regulator will handle all your fuel system upgrades. Rebildable! Easy to adjust fuel pressure up and down for maximum tuning. A must have item for all Turbo Buicks

FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page

 

[meanchicken]

I took a closer loat the WG solenoid hoses. Until now, I completely missed that this hose T's off to both the turbo housing and the WG. The hose to the turbo seems to be in decent shape, but the one to the WG is definitely rotten. Rubber chunks rub right off of it. I'll replace these hoses.

If the WG solenoid was bad, wouldn't I get a SES light and code?
...or should I just check for the codes even if I don't have an SES light?

Aside from that I still think I'll have work to do. I'll try some basic chip tuning and possibly experiment with bumping up the fuel pressure a few lbs.

I took it up to WOT gradually tonight while watching the KR. The ScanMaster 2.1 apparently goes into auto record once the TPS goes over 3.0. The KR stayed low (less than 2) and then jumped up suddently and went audible so I got out of it. Recorded O2mv was at 769, and KR was 8.2 at 70mph. Does this seem like I need more fuel. I might go find me some 105 octane also to see if that helps....I hear there is a 76 station in Laguna Hills that sells it.

I forgot and turned off the engine before writing the rest of the secondary stuff down tonight so it's lost. You should know that the secondaries I posted yesterday were taken down after I had shut the engine off and then turned it on and let it idle, so I don't know how valid they are compared to what would have gone into memory while I was driving around. I'll write them down tomorrow before shutting the engine down and will repost.

These cars have MAP sensors right?
Could a bad MAP do this?
If I have one where is it?
Tim

 

[Junior Samples]

Tim,
Remember, These are what I have been used to working on for the past twenty years

So this was whole new ballgame for me as well but I got the bugs worked out with (spring cleaning)<--- term you see alot in ref to GN.org's page, So keep at it.

Get them Vac lines replaced.
Map is located on pass fender behind overflow, follow vac line.
I have adjustable wastegate asslembly for stock turbo I will send you if you want, But you still need Autometer boost gauge cause the pretty lights on dash are wrong and you could very well be overboosting as I read on a post in this thread

 

[meanchicken]

Tim,
Remember, These are what I have been used to working on for the past twenty years.
So this was whole new ballgame for me as well but I got the bugs worked out with (spring cleaning)<--- term you see alot in ref to GN.org's page, So keep at it.

Get them Vac lines replaced.
Map is located on pass fender behind overflow, follow vac line.
I have adjustable wastegate asslembly for stock turbo I will send you if you want, But you still need Autometer boost gauge cause the pretty lights on dash are wrong and you could very well be overboosting as I read on a post in this thread

Yup....I'm all over those vac lines next time I'm under the hood and I have the boost gauge on my wish list for my next parts order.

I'll take you up on the adj WG. I'll e-mail you seperately.

I took another WOT stab to get some updated ScanMaster readings.
Something wierd happened that might give a clue.

This time, I accelerated hard from about 5mph. The audible knock came in in first gear where it's usually the worst. The O2 mv was 750 at 18 mph when I got out of the throttle. The KR....0.
Now the stroange thing is that this was recorded during audible knock that was so bad that it sounded like someone was shaking a rattle can under my hood. Previous reads on this level of knock the KR was as high as 12.2. Could this be an indicator that my knock sensor is malf'd.

On the secondary functions, most were pretty close to what I posted previosly. The only ones that looked significantly different were the Ats went from 94 to 103, the cc went from 163 down to 49 and the IAC went from 37 to 24
No more WOT until I fix it...I promise....really...put down the weapons.

Tim

 

[Junior Samples]

This time, I accelerated hard from about 5mph. The audible knock came in in first gear where it's usually the worst. The O2 mv was 750 at 18 mph when I got out of the throttle. The KR....0.
Now the stroange thing is that this was recorded during audible knock that was so bad that it sounded like someone was shaking a rattle can under my hood. Previous reads on this level of knock the KR was as high as 12.2. Could this be an indicator that my knock sensor is malf'd.

Tim

A few posts up I explained what the cross counts were in relation to O2 sensor, also link with good reading, CC's cycle but a lazy O2 will..well be lazy in its cycles. and one treatment of snake oil octane boost can gum up sensor.

Does car run fine if your just tooling along down the road at say 45mph?..the rattle can in first gear take off spooks me
does car idle nice?? or still shakin?

Man we need some pros on this one, i got lucky when i bought mine, few troubles except the usual

 

[TURBOELKY]

what is your beating of choice? here are your options:
brass knuckles
nun-chucks
baseball bat
sock w/20$ of quarters
or just a good ole belt?
let me know.........

get that boost gauge or else!!! also, try that octane, that might compensate for the overboost your having

 

[Junior Samples]

what is your beating of choice? here are your options:
brass knuckles
nun-chucks
baseball bat
sock w/20$ of quarters
or just a good ole belt?
let me know.........

What about 50 lashes with a Cat "O" Nine Tails?..Wait maybe thats what his wife will give him when she locates the secret GN money pit receipt stash hes got hiding behind his dresser drawer third from top

 

[meanchicken]

What about 50 lashes with a Cat "O" Nine Tails?..Wait maybe thats what his wife will give him when she locates the secret GN money pit receipt stash hes got hiding behind his dresser drawer third from top

Ha!
She hasn't killed me over the $30K in parts money I've sunk into my Camaro....so what's a few more on the GN going to do?

As for the engines manners aside from the knocking/pinging, it runs great. Idles nice, smooth acceleration. Things go bad when I push it over 3/4 throttle and to WOT. Pretty much any more than 12 pretty lights on the LED boost gauge (I know it's meaningless) and I go into KR. So I will keep it under 10 pretty lights and at 0 KR.

I promise to get the boost gauge and vacuum hoses taken care of.

I'm going to do a seperate post on a different issue that suddenly came up last night....tranny (gulp) related on the way home.

Tim

 

[boatn70]

as a wannabe and hopeful GN/TT owner, this thread and the others are very beneficial....thanks to all for input for this man!
keep on him so he doesnt ruin anything. these are definately different from the v8s we all may be used too!!
keep it up all!!

BTW: in the pic with the gift wrapped battery, whats that strap and eyebolt for? some sort of a motor mount??? prevent twisting?? or factory part??LOL

 

[Underboost]

BTW: in the pic with the gift wrapped battery, whats that strap and eyebolt for? some sort of a motor mount??? prevent twisting?? or factory part??LOL

These Buick have a tendency to break motor mounts and that strap is just added insurance. Some may say it also prevents Knock I say BS on that.

 

[graza002]

These Buick have a tendency to break motor mounts and that strap is just added insurance. Some may say it also prevents Knock I say BS on that.

WTF, I added the strap and it removed 12.7 degrees of KR!!! LOL

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, I never unwrapped the battery, cuz I was plannin on returning it lol. But i figured, why not keep it wrapped a little longer, to prevent that oxidation that happens to the body around most batteries, because of this gas letoff. I know they need to breathe. Theres holes in the plastic lol. She's good.
And yea, the strap prevents all this torque from making the engine break both mounts, and start to spin all the way around in the engine bay. Ive seen it before. You know its doin it, when you start to slow down unexpectedly, and it sounds like someones rattling a brick inside a metal garbage can. Yea... they have that much torque... In my last buick, I had to custom fab solid tool steel motor mounts, to prevent this in the past... its nuts, i know.

 

[TURBOELKY]

I keep a "little tree", air freshener under the hood to keep my engine smelling new. i've heard about the engine doing spins under the hood, thats why I cut out my firewall, so I can keep an eye on it. I stopped using a battery, it kept smothering to death(it was still in the wrapper). I now have a flux capacitor in the back of the elky to supply sufficient voltage.

did you get the boost gauge in that car yet??????