turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
I completely understand with higher than stock spring rates and more aggresive FT performance grinds but close to stock springs/grinds are fine.
Which oil is best?
- Thread starter MY6ISQWK
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stagemonster
R.C. entourage
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 1,528
Who told you that. A flat tapet needs zddp. The spring dose not matter the only cam that dose not need zddp is a roller. Do some research before you give out bad info to people that may want to preserve their cars.
Joe Gibbs
ive not seen it mentioned here before but my engine builder told me about it after visiting a seminar and it seems like good oil, I ran the BR and now run the oil. I believe its fairly new
Joe Gibbs Racing Oil 10w 30...contains the good stuff and synthetic
and for breaking in a new engine
Joe Gibbs BR
ive not seen it mentioned here before but my engine builder told me about it after visiting a seminar and it seems like good oil, I ran the BR and now run the oil. I believe its fairly new
Joe Gibbs Racing Oil 10w 30...contains the good stuff and synthetic
and for breaking in a new engine
Joe Gibbs BR
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 2,092
How about the walmart SF for older cars? 
ALVAROG1983
EVIL GN
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,480
Oil
IF YOU HAVE SYNTHETIC NOW I HEARD THAT YOU CAN'T GO BACK TO NON SYNTHETIC OIL MAKE SURE OF THIS BEFORE YOU SWITCH OVER.
IF YOU HAVE SYNTHETIC NOW I HEARD THAT YOU CAN'T GO BACK TO NON SYNTHETIC OIL MAKE SURE OF THIS BEFORE YOU SWITCH OVER.
Taylor04
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2008
- Messages
- 122
Just clocked 90,000 a few days ago. I use Lucas Oil with some of their synthetic additive, might try that ZDDP next time....
No that was back when synthetic oil first came about, it used to swell seals a bit. You can switch from non to synthetic now with no problem, the formulas have changed and that problem shouldn't exist.
I've always used Mobil 1 full syn 5w30..10w30 if I can find it..seems like extra protection on these motors with different tolerances and hot running temps..
What are you saying about roller setups though? If I understand right you're saying that on non roller you need the additive and nothing special about if you are running a roller setup..curious about this.
I have roller cam and rockers.
What are you saying about roller setups though? If I understand right you're saying that on non roller you need the additive and nothing special about if you are running a roller setup..curious about this.
I have roller cam and rockers.
V6UnderPressure
The Artist FKA Scott4DMny
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 2,914
Valvoline VR1 Racing 10w30 with one quart of amsoil racing 20w50.
You guys that are using DELO 400 better be sure that it is not the LE version
, in this part of the country and I bet yours also, Chevron is only selling LE in qts. and Gal. you can only get the old 400 in bulk only, and that means no Qts. or Gal., unless there is still some stockpiled buy these large auto chains
like Autozone, Schucks, Etc. So as of now there are two DELO 400's, the old 400 and the new LE stuff. You can also get the LE in bulk if you do want it also.
Ron
, in this part of the country and I bet yours also, Chevron is only selling LE in qts. and Gal. you can only get the old 400 in bulk only, and that means no Qts. or Gal., unless there is still some stockpiled buy these large auto chains
like Autozone, Schucks, Etc. So as of now there are two DELO 400's, the old 400 and the new LE stuff. You can also get the LE in bulk if you do want it also.
Ron
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
- Messages
- 2,187
Switch. Now.
I ran Mobil 1 for several years, then a couple of years ago I started getting my oil analyzed by a lab at each change. The samples kept coming back with really high lead levels. The lab said it could be due to use of leaded gas, and I had run a few tanks of it early on, but after two whole change cycles with zero leaded gas run through the car, my lead content hadn't dropped, indicating abnormal bearing wear.
I switched to Royal Purple 10w40, which is advertised as having enough ZDDP for a non-roller engine. Lead content dropped dramatically in the very next sample.
I've also found through reading up on where to get the proper oil for a BMW I just bought that Mobil 1's 30 weight is very thin, almost at the bottom limit to be called a 30 weight oil.
Mobil 1 is still very good oil, I'm running the 0w-40 Euro formula in my BMW, but I'm not going to run it in my Buick anymore.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
- Messages
- 2,187
Probably.
turbojd said:
And for most of those years, Mobil 1 was fine. It's only in the last five or so the formulation has changed. That's why I started having my oil analyzed. It's the only way to know what's going on inside the engine without pulling it and taking it apart.
I think the current Mobil 1 10w30 is just too thin for these engines.
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 6,110
Yes, do a search, you WILL find 9000 different opinions lol.
Though, some of them are fact. You'll soon see why after your 4 weeks worth of reading.
Royal purple? Not worth the price. You're not getting any more protection over any other good quality oil.
Amsoil? Enough zinc? I'm not soo sure about that. That's what I used to run. (but after their price hike, and talking at length with Mr. Clark on here, I finally seen the light)
Running diesel oil for the anti wear/scuff properties? Myth. It's no better.
Changing your oil under 3000 miles to help with protection? Myth. That's crap. There's NO need to do that WHATsoever. That used to be helpful with the wear prevention 10 years ago. NOT so anymore. You're wasting time, and oil.
Genuine racing oil? NOT good for street use. DO NOT use that crap. It's made for racing only. Meaning, right after the race, the oil gets drained, and replaced. It lacks the additive package our daily drivers need.
Quit with all these high speed gimmicks. There's nothing wrong with any of the better quality dino/synth oils out there now. It's the oil pressure, and oil filter you should be worrying about. If you run a flat tappet, run a bottle of zddp in there, and you'll be fine. If not, you're wasting your money on that 10 dollar a quart stuff.
Though, some of them are fact. You'll soon see why after your 4 weeks worth of reading.
Royal purple? Not worth the price. You're not getting any more protection over any other good quality oil.
Amsoil? Enough zinc? I'm not soo sure about that. That's what I used to run. (but after their price hike, and talking at length with Mr. Clark on here, I finally seen the light)
Running diesel oil for the anti wear/scuff properties? Myth. It's no better.
Changing your oil under 3000 miles to help with protection? Myth. That's crap. There's NO need to do that WHATsoever. That used to be helpful with the wear prevention 10 years ago. NOT so anymore. You're wasting time, and oil.
Genuine racing oil? NOT good for street use. DO NOT use that crap. It's made for racing only. Meaning, right after the race, the oil gets drained, and replaced. It lacks the additive package our daily drivers need.
Quit with all these high speed gimmicks. There's nothing wrong with any of the better quality dino/synth oils out there now. It's the oil pressure, and oil filter you should be worrying about. If you run a flat tappet, run a bottle of zddp in there, and you'll be fine. If not, you're wasting your money on that 10 dollar a quart stuff.
