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Which rear sway bar should I buy?

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And adding an aftermarket rear anti sway anti roll bar prevents the rear end from picking up the passenger side tire and aids in planting the rear tires more evenly and by mounting it to the frame prevents the body from twisting and allows a straighter and safer launch. Most of the aftermarket bars are also adjustable so u can preload them compensating for weight and fine tuning of the rear suspension. Hope that explains it alil for u.
 
I will add my .02 here. Went to a H&R bar early last year from the ATR/Full Throttle style bar. Wanted to step up my game so I upgraded. Best 60' of last year was a 1.63 I think it was. Fought problems all year, especially in the trans. Also had wore out tires. Best 60' on the old bar was a 1.57. Be that as it may.

My car comes out of the hole STRAIGHT with the H&R bar. I can almost launch it with no hands on the wheel... Car is much tighter on the street as well. Oh and to those saying to take the front swaybar off, it had NO affect on my 60' times. Granted I have a completely rebuilt front end so it may not be rising as much as it did before.

The H&R bar is a top quality piece and fits great and installs easy. The instructions are very clear and concise and easy to follow. All the hardware is top notch. YES it WILL CLEAR the TA girdle AND the Hooker exhaust. It takes some creativity but can easily be done. Even with the new bar so close to the axle, plenty of room to remove the diff cover if need be.

Its worth every penny IMHO.
 
A common misconception with removing the front sway bar is, it's going to allow you to yank your front tires in the air when your at the track. Wrong!! Get a decent set of shocks in your car with a new set of slicks and launch it harder. The more boost you can stick out the gate, the better your 60 foot will be. I cut a 1.37 sixty foot with my old 109 setup launching off the transbrake at 20psi with my F-body front sway bar on and cheap Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50's. In the 11's and 10's the trick is to get it to 60 foot as hard as you can to get that et. When you go faster (mid 9's), that theory is out the window, and it's a combination of things that has to be done to get good 60 foots out of the car because the power the car is making.
 
Last year my best 60' was 1.63 on a 11.38 @ 121 pass. This is with the oem bars front and rear launching at under 10#. All original bushings, and front end - but with rear controls arms and QA1 shocks all around. The car has always launched straight and drove through the 1/4 mile effortlessly. So today I bolted on my intercooler shroud - which means my front sway bar is staying put. Thanks guys for the information. So I will look at a rear bar only.
 
DSE bar showed up today, as described it took about 2 hours to install. Finished up after dark sorry no pics yet. No test ride either as my front seats are at the upholster. I will say I was impressed with the care taken to ship the bar and hardware, the directions were easy to follow . Looking at the end links, im not worried at all about their strength, So far no complaints... can't wait to test drive it....got some 110 in the car right now.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with any body mounted swaybar, end of story.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with any body mounted swaybar, end of story.
That was my thinking as well.... For the price difference in the DSE bar and the HR bar , to me its worth a shot.


I haven't had a chance to take the car out ...still waiting on my seats to be finished up. Also , it looks like as of now both tracks in the phoenix area are shut down, not sure where or when I can get track time .
 
I want to order the d s e bar friday but I still can't decide $$$ is the difference but I just don't no get one now or save a little while longer!!
 
[flamesuit]

10psi boost did 1.46 on DRs with Hellwig. works for budget minded folks like me.

[/flamesuit]
 
How good was the hardware and parts for the hellwig sway bar iv looked at those but was not shure and the rod lengths thanks just curious
 
had to cut em to fit. hacksaw, 10 minutes, little grinder action.

grab a step drill that goes to 1/2 inch in small steps, makes drilling the frame easier.

Other than that, not bad to install. You'll need a vice to install the rubber bushings into the end links.
 
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