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charlief1 said:
Just unbolt the cat from the back and bust the guts out of it. Cheaper and easier in the long run. As far as the knock at idle, turn the mixture screws out 1/4 to 1/2 turn more and see if it goes away.
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its not knocking at idle just in park and neutral when i press the gas just a little bit when the boost kicks in i guess
 
LilSpann601 said:
its not knocking at idle just in park and neutral when i press the gas just a little bit when the boost kicks in i guess
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this sounds like excessive mechanical advance.

Charlie, he might need to take it down a peg or 2 ..... i think his dizzy needs a heavier set of springs.

A.j.
 
I noticed the way the distributer was mounted in the pictures was a little odd to me, almost looked advanced.
 
the disb is mounted correctly now those are old pictures...i tried to turn the advance down some today but it really didn't effect the noise...Im just going to use 93 ill let yall know what happens...oh yeah is there anyway to tell when i advanced the disb too much...right now the vac advance is sittin directly besides the power steering bracket
 
LilSpann601 said:
its not knocking at idle just in park and neutral when i press the gas just a little bit when the boost kicks in i guess
Click to expand...

The boost only comes on when you're under load. If you're not in gear it will spin the turbo but no boost.:eek:

dr_frankenstein said:
this sounds like excessive mechanical advance.
Charlie, he might need to take it down a peg or 2 ..... i think his dizzy needs a heavier set of springs.

A.j.
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I agree with heavier springs to keep the advance down some. The big question is what's the number on the carb? Lorenzo, didn't you go to a non ECM carb? If that's the case you may need to check vac at idle and change the primary spring for a lighter one. If the power valve has too strong a spring it won't open enough or maybe you need a needle/jet change for a little more fuel. Did you overhaul the carb? If you did, did you see what the primary needles/seats were marked or the secondary needles? Tuning a Q-jet isn't hard you just need to do some reading.
 
charlief1 said:
The boost only comes on when you're under load. If you're not in gear it will spin the turbo but no boost.:eek:



I agree with heavier springs to keep the advance down some. The big question is what's the number on the carb? Lorenzo, didn't you go to a non ECM carb? If that's the case you may need to check vac at idle and change the primary spring for a lighter one. If the power valve has too strong a spring it won't open enough or maybe you need a needle/jet change for a little more fuel. Did you overhaul the carb? If you did, did you see what the primary needles/seats were marked or the secondary needles? Tuning a Q-jet isn't hard you just need to do some reading.
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the carb is non ecm...i didn't overhaul it when it was bought the guy told me it was recently rebuilt..how would i go about changing the springs where would i get the parts...where is the power valve located
 
LilSpann601 said:
the carb is non ecm...i didn't overhaul it when it was bought the guy told me it was recently rebuilt..how would i go about changing the springs where would i get the parts...where is the power valve located
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The carb shop in Ontario californication can help you. Look in a car mag to find an add for them. You need to get a book on Rochestor carbs, I've got 3 of them myself and they're well worn now. Haynes is the most common but if you find one by Doug Roe it's the best one. Do a search on evilbay or amazon and see what you find. The power valve is internal and you have to take it apart to get to it. You can take the top off while the carb is still mounted so it's not a really bad job. The spring is under the power valve so it gives you a chance to check the main jets, main rods, secondary rods, and the secondary hanger to see what you have in the car. The secondary needles are interchangable as are the hangers. The primary aren't though so you need to get a book to identify which carb you have. It'll either be a 4M or an M4. The M4 is the earlier one and the 4M is the newest one.
 
well ive been testing driving her for a bit shes impressing me the more i drive shes sort of a turtle on take off but once she gets up she flys i still couldn't manage to burn off shouldi be ableto
 
Lorenzo, Please te-type that. I couldn't understand the last part. Whadumean burn off?
 
Sounds pretty good but I think you may have an exhaust leak or something's knocking. After it gets rolling I bet it will haul.
 
charlief1 said:
Sounds pretty good but I think you may have an exhaust leak or something's knocking. After it gets rolling I bet it will haul.
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thanks when in gear the sound disappears...i dont know what it could be but the lower the idle rpm the quiter the knock gets...the exhaust is leakin a little but not much..i still dont have my exhaust connected to the downpipe its just hanging by a chain..
 
BTW there's a 7.5" rear out of an early (83) t type for $200 in the for sale section. Take a hose small enough to fit in your ear and move it around to see if you can hear the noise. If you don't find it that way get a stethescope and see if you can find it.
 
If it's a 7.5 it would fit but by the time you do the set up it might be cheaper to get the rear. With the 3 speed tranny you really don't want to go over a 3.08 if you want to drive it on the highway. If you want a set of 3.42 I have a complete center you can get cheap enough. They're still in the rear and the center bearings are new (I put them in and the customer stiffed me). You'd just need to change the pinion bearing and set it up. It's not a posi though. It's out of a 4th gen camaro and the axle is sitting on my porch right now. I kept it for the disc set up and haven't torn it down yet.
 
Is that flywheel cracked have u checked that out my car made a similar knock @ idle,when car was put in gear knock went away.Turned out to be the flywheel cracked right where it bolts up to the crank.Just a thought
 
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