Which way to point nozzle?

[svo clone]

I just got my PAC kit and had a question for Razor or any 1 .

My up pipe to the throttle body is 2.5 and i have a 90 right in front of my TB.

The question is, any benifit to pointing the nozzle into the TB or just put it in facing the side of the pipe and let the air flow push it in.

I was thinking about adding a piece to the 90 to fit the nozzle and aim it at the TB.

Just a 2.3 shooting for 400 rwhp.

A quick mock up pic, pipe is to long between 90 and TB in the pic just a test fit for clearance.

Thanks
Steve

 

[Robbie-87plz]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96453&highlight=nozzle+placement

 

[svo clone]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96453&highlight=nozzle+placement

Thanks i did see that 1 and i want to keep it as close to the TB as i can.
Just wondered about the direction that i can spray it,or if it matters.

Thanks
Steve

 

[Razor]

Thanks i did see that 1 and i want to keep it as close to the TB as i can.
Just wondered about the direction that i can spray it,or if it matters.

Thanks
Steve

Does not matter. As soon as the TB is opened.. the motor is like a huge vacuum cleaner and sucks in the alky.

Even on roots blower cars, if you mount the nozzle like I say, you never get any reversion.. we did a test on a magnusson blower whereby putting baby powder on the inside of the intake bridge.. 8 dyno pulls latter.. the baby powder was still there pre nozzle. See what your asking I thought might have been an issue.. once you do the tests.. if you decide.. you'll see no benefit. If anything creating an obstruction to the in-coming air will probably hurt more.

K.I.S.S. :biggrin:

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Does not matter. As soon as the TB is opened.. the motor is like a huge vacuum cleaner and sucks in the alky.

Even on roots blower cars, if you mount the nozzle like I say, you never get any reversion.. we did a test on a magnusson blower whereby putting baby powder on the inside of the intake bridge.. 8 dyno pulls latter.. the baby powder was still there pre nozzle. See what your asking I thought might have been an issue.. once you do the tests.. if you decide.. you'll see no benefit. If anything creating an obstruction to the in-coming air will probably hurt more.

K.I.S.S. :biggrin:

Could you spray into the income air flow and use the shear to help better atomize the alky? Also why do you want as close to the TB as possible? I would have thought a middling distance would be better so the alky has more of a chance to cool the charge and reach equilibrium considering what you the mass flow is inside the uppipe.

 

[Razor]

Could you spray into the income air flow and use the shear to help better atomize the alky? Also why do you want as close to the TB as possible? I would have thought a middling distance would be better so the alky has more of a chance to cool the charge and reach equilibrium considering what you the mass flow is inside the uppipe.

Technically/typically the highest point of the system is the TB area. It typically affords a nice place for getting to the nozzle. It has yielded positive results on every application I have ever tested.

The velocity of the air once the blade is cracked open doesnt care where you place it. 2 inches or 12 inches isnt going to make a difference when your blowing 25+ PSI boost.

In a theory type discussion, I can see a benefit going farther away. Actually I helped design a system on a turbo diesel, we shot the nozzle pre-IC and the reason was the truck was going to see a lot of winter driving, this way we were assurred there would be enough heat to have the alky do its job.

Again.. simplicity rules..

 

[svo clone]

you'll see no benefit. If anything creating an obstruction to the in-coming air will probably hurt more.

K.I.S.S. :biggrin:

Thanks a bunch Razor,good point about obstructing air flow in the bend!

1 little question about the small 42" braided hose i got.

Its long so i can cut it for better fit and I have the 2 new ends you include in the kit.

Do they need to be crimped or just push them in to the ends with the sleeve and hose barb?


Thanks Guys!

Steve

 

[Razor]

They need to be pressed on. Have a hyd hose shop do this for you. Think the word they use is "swedge".

Feed hose has no pressure, on this one.. clamps can be used.

Pressure hose can see 200+ PSI.. they need to be professionally swedged/crimped.

HTH

 

[svo clone]

Ok guys i have my flame suit on,so flame if ya want.

I gave it some more thought and did up an elbow with out being on the out side of the bend, where it flows mostly it should not affect the flow.

If some of you think its a bad idea. Just say so, its only a $10 bend and i will srcap it.

Blue fitting is the 50 dry shot.

Thanks for looking.
Steve

 

[Razor]

It will work. Will you see any benefit from going the extra mile? .. only mentally :wink:

Loctite the threads so it doesnt come loose.

 

[svo clone]

Thanks for tip about the loctite. I was bored at work (general repair /muffler shop) so no real cash or effort wasted.

I built my own upper intake and header at work got paid to do it and materials were free. Just the price of a few weld ells.

Its fun to build stuff.

intakes
the blue 1 is the old stocker that went over the valve cover.

header

Steve

 

[Old_Man_HyPsi87]

svo clone....this is your supervisor! See me Monday morning!
(just kidding!) :biggrin:


government job, we call them!