Who makes the best bolt in cage?

About...oh...13 years ago, Dean Marcum of the BGNRA had a lot of discussions with NHRA Div 7 about bolt-in rollbars. We were dealing with the fact that most of the NHRA Techs at the time had no idea that ANY street car could run 11's. Anyways, because the G-body is actually a semi-full frame car, they said go ahead and do a genuine bolt-in like every other sanctioning body (SCCA, the eruos, etc.) accepted and often mandated. So AutoPower of San Diego did one for me (used my car to design a bar for g-bodies.) It's the real deal with removable side bars, etc., plates above and below the floors. Not the kind of thing you put in and take out for a weekend of racing. It's in there, but can be removed for upholstery work, etc.

Think about it: if a body-frame separation is the concern, wouldn't you rather have the roll-bar stay in the body with the driver?

Mac

In theory, that sounds good but do you think the body would come off around a frame welded rollcage. I think the body/rollbar/frame would be safer.

Just my opinion.
 
Mac

In theory, that sounds good but do you think the body would come off around a frame welded rollcage. I think the body/rollbar/frame would be safer.

Just my opinion.

Heck, I don't know. I'm just tellin' a story. :D

It was a funny thing at the time. The NHRA Div 7 guy was fine with it, but the "head" NHRA guy was wishy-washy. He said, "If Fred says its okay, then I guess I don't have a problem with it." But, they wouldn't put anything into writing in a bulletin or the rule book.

Weird. But, that's the NHRA, right? :D
 
Mike, at this point you need to decide what you want to do with your car......either put a proper roll bar in it or do not go to the track again, simple as that.
 
Mike, at this point you need to decide what you want to do with your car......either put a proper roll bar in it or do not go to the track again, simple as that.

Exactly, just like someone else i know!
 

WTF?!?! You want to talk about welding in a roll cage, but no one is screaming bloody murder over what happened in that video? Hows about not having those guard rails... those things formed a damn ramp when he whacked them... After a few years in the monster truck business I can tell you that a steel guardrail will never stop anything unless it is concrete or taller than 2/3 of the vehicle... I just about **** a brick when I saw those rails launch him like that!
 
[/QUOTE] I just about **** a brick when I saw those rails launch him like that![/QUOTE]


..........AND you saw him walk away.....BECAUSE he had PROPER safety equipment. A properly built cage and chasis, helmet and harness. I also bet that the harness is not bolted to the floor in the backseat or the front seat track like that bull$hit in the other thread here. If you are gonna race, do it safely and dont have the " its not gonna happen to me" attitude.

later, jeremy
 
Yes I know that.... I work in the monster truck industry... we test our cages weekly... the whole thing that made me upset was how unsafe that track is. Im not trying to say that a good cage isnt worth it's weight in gold, Im just pointing out that that video was insane! I personally will never have a cage in my car... it's a street car that will probobly never see 11s. I would like racing harnesses, but there isnt really a safe way to mount them without a rear bar.

I know where this guy is coming from though with not wanting a "full time" cage... we have street cars, not race cars and we just want to be able to go to the track every couple of months. In reality his car really does need a cage, but putting a cage in a 5 passenger car makes it a 2 passenger car... it also KILLS the resale value for the most part if it is a nice example of a stock car like mine is. This guy just does not wat to ruin his street car...
 
Yes I know that.... I work in the monster truck industry... we test our cages weekly... the whole thing that made me upset was how unsafe that track is. Im not trying to say that a good cage isnt worth it's weight in gold, Im just pointing out that that video was insane! I personally will never have a cage in my car... it's a street car that will probobly never see 11s. I would like racing harnesses, but there isnt really a safe way to mount them without a rear bar.

I know where this guy is coming from though with not wanting a "full time" cage... we have street cars, not race cars and we just want to be able to go to the track every couple of months. In reality his car really does need a cage, but putting a cage in a 5 passenger car makes it a 2 passenger car... it also KILLS the resale value for the most part if it is a nice example of a stock car like mine is. This guy just does not wat to ruin his street car...


I am sorry here I was just going to read this and say nothing. But here goes my .02
If you have a really nice GN T-Type or what ever it is and you make it fast and dont want a cage THEN DONT GO TO THE TRACK and run 10.80's! Go 11.50's and leave it alone.

Now if you have a decent car such as My T-Type and you know you want to go fast with class you need a CAGE!

Think of it this way slow the car you have down to 11.50's and be happy with it. Or put this combo in another car to use as a track car only or just for you and your wife to use on the street and then race it.

Sorry to say but I disagree with all this crap about my car is to nice to put a cage in. LMAO! If you are going this fast you NEED A cage to be safe even on the street!!

No I dont have one in my car yet and I could have gone faster than 11.50 the last time to the track but I didnt use my T-brake and I kept the boost down so I didnt go 11.49 or faster. We all know this is easy to do with our cars

SO in closing if your car is SO SO NICE YOU DONT WANT TO CUT IT UP and HURT ITS VALUE! Get another car and cut it up and have 2. I have plenty of friends on this forum and others that have a Reall really clean show/street almost stock GN and an all out race car that was a little beat up when they got it.

Just a point here, Kids dont belong in a car without a cage thats capable of going this fast anyway! Daddy can kill him self but why the heck you want to kill you and your family to????

Good luck with your decision but let me be the 1st to say if I had kids they would sure as heck be wereing helmets and be in there with a cage.

And I dont want to hear kids cant ride with a cage my friend accross the street has a cage in his Monte Carlo (its 10 sec car) and when he goes to a cruise night his kids clim under the rear bar and get in the back and ones 5'7" or taller!!

"Do what you do but dont look to me when something bad happens"

The above is a quote from my Grandfather and trust me he was a very very smart man :)
 
I am sorry here I was just going to read this and say nothing. But here goes my .02
If you have a really nice GN T-Type or what ever it is and you make it fast and dont want a cage THEN DONT GO TO THE TRACK and run 10.80's! Go 11.50's and leave it alone.

Now if you have a decent car such as My T-Type and you know you want to go fast with class you need a CAGE!

Think of it this way slow the car you have down to 11.50's and be happy with it. Or put this combo in another car to use as a track car only or just for you and your wife to use on the street and then race it.

Sorry to say but I disagree with all this crap about my car is to nice to put a cage in. LMAO! If you are going this fast you NEED A cage to be safe even on the street!!

No I dont have one in my car yet and I could have gone faster than 11.50 the last time to the track but I didnt use my T-brake and I kept the boost down so I didnt go 11.49 or faster. We all know this is easy to do with our cars

SO in closing if your car is SO SO NICE YOU DONT WANT TO CUT IT UP and HURT ITS VALUE! Get another car and cut it up and have 2. I have plenty of friends on this forum and others that have a Reall really clean show/street almost stock GN and an all out race car that was a little beat up when they got it.

Just a point here, Kids dont belong in a car without a cage thats capable of going this fast anyway! Daddy can kill him self but why the heck you want to kill you and your family to????

Good luck with your decision but let me be the 1st to say if I had kids they would sure as heck be wereing helmets and be in there with a cage.

And I dont want to hear kids cant ride with a cage my friend accross the street has a cage in his Monte Carlo (its 10 sec car) and when he goes to a cruise night his kids clim under the rear bar and get in the back and ones 5'7" or taller!!

"Do what you do but dont look to me when something bad happens"

The above is a quote from my Grandfather and trust me he was a very very smart man :)

hit the nail on the head!!! Melissa ran mid 11s for 7 or 8 years .. She has a really nice GN now ... well we stepped the engine dept a little to low low 10s in street trim ... "Mom" made sure ALL the safety stuff was there :biggrin: Oh she drives her's as a driver !!! IT'S ONLY A FRIGGIN CAR :eek: Oh as far as that harness that goes to the rear seat ??? I know New England Dragway would throw your butt out !!
 
After reading through this thread, I can understand why you don't want the inconvenience of a cage or bar in your car if you mainly street drive the car. It is a PITA getting in the backseat with the main hoop in the way.

Just a couple of thoughts:

At the Speeds and ET you are going, you NEED protection period. I don't care how straight your car goes, you can't predict the racing surface. Coolant, oil or water on the track can cause you to lose control. I don't know you, but I don't want to read about something bad happening to you because you weren't properly protected.

1. Don't go that fast.....stay over 11.49 or

2. Install a custom built rollbar/cage with removeable swingouts and a removeable backbrace. The removeable backbrace doesn't technically meet the NHRA/IRHA rules, but could still be very safe in the event of an accident and probably more than enough for your local track.

Technically, you only need a 5 point rollbar for the ET's you are running. With a 5P rollbar you are good to 10.00. In my opinion, you need to consult with a good chassis builder and tell him exactly what you need for your dual purpose usage. If you can't find someone who will build what you need, I can recommend an excellent chassis guy in Michigan.
 
After reading through this thread, I can understand why you don't want the inconvenience of a cage or bar in your car if you mainly street drive the car. It is a PITA getting in the backseat with the main hoop in the way.

Just a couple of thoughts:

At the Speeds and ET you are going, you NEED protection period. I don't care how straight your car goes, you can't predict the racing surface. Coolant, oil or water on the track can cause you to lose control. I don't know you, but I don't want to read about something bad happening to you because you weren't properly protected.

1. Don't go that fast.....stay over 11.49 or

2. Install a custom built rollbar/cage with removeable swingouts and a removeable backbrace. The removeable backbrace doesn't technically meet the NHRA/IRHA rules, but could still be very safe in the event of an accident and probably more than enough for your local track.

Technically, you only need a 5 point rollbar for the ET's you are running. With a 5P rollbar you are good to 10.00. In my opinion, you need to consult with a good chassis builder and tell him exactly what you need for your dual purpose usage. If you can't find someone who will build what you need, I can recommend an excellent chassis guy in Michigan.


Damn you hit this on the head! Same thing I said!
what shop are you using in Michigan?? I am still looking for prices to get mine done best one was $600 to install And I buy the cage parts from Comp Eng.
 
Tim at Total Fabrication does my chassis work. He works only in Chromoly and custom bends everything. His bending and welding are outstanding. I get many compliments on my cage. PM me if you want his number.
 
Lonnie Diers (extreme automatics in Ohio) had somebody installed a stealth cage in my car you almost can not see it from the back as it followed the shape of the interior also has bi-swing outs and removable back cross bar on days that you need to haul 3-4 passengers in the back.
 
While your putting in the bar, heres some more rules that i found for IHRA requirements


Elapsed Time (ET) of 10.00 - 11.49

Snell 95 (or newer) helmet
Hood is optional
Drive shaft loop
Battery hold-down
Radiator overflow can
Seat belts meeting SFI Specification 16.1 within 2 years expiration from date of manufacture.
Harmonic Balancer meeting SFI 18.1 Specification (10.99 or quicker)
Properly secured fire extinguisher
Aftermarket axles and axle retention devices (10.99 or quicker)
Roll Bar
Window Net (vehicles equipped with a Roll Cage only)
Transmission shield/blanket meeting SFI Specification 4.1 if the vehicle uses a modified transmission or special converter, or the vehicle runs 10.99 seconds or quicker.
Neutral safety switch mandatory for all vehicles with an automatic transmission. Reverse lockout mandatory. If a manual transmission vehicle was originally provided by the manufacturer with a clutch interlock switch it must remain operational.
Flywheel shield meeting SFI Specification 6.3 on vehicles using multi-disc type clutches.
Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and flywheel shield meeting SFI 1.1 Specifications required on all cars using a clutch.
Jacket meeting SFI 3.2A-1 Specifications
Arm Restraints required on all open bodied cars
Check current IHRA Rule Book for additional requirements and specifications.
 
Just a question

What should you have to pay for supplies and install to get a nice roll cage? What is the best metal to use?

Thanks for the help and sorry for butting into the thread. Just looks like there is a lot of experience on this thread.
 
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