WTB - Stage 1 Block 012 Casting

Would it be easier to find a stage 2 off center? I have seen more 0016 than stage 1 0012's.
 
I have a virgin Stage 1 Block. In perfect condition. I have had it for over 13 years. Stored in climate control. It looks like it did the day it was cast. It has not been touched in any way. Perfect.
 
Virgin Stage1 block are not 14 bolt for heads therefore have to drill extra holes, nickel content is not the same as the stage2. The caps are not splade like the stage 2 blocks i believe, could be wrong on the caps not sure it's been awhile since i had a stage1 block.
 
ronviper said:
Virgin Stage1 block are not 14 bolt for heads therefore have to drill extra holes, nickel content is not the same as the stage2. The caps are not splade like the stage 2 blocks i believe, could be wrong on the caps not sure it's been awhile since i had a stage1 block.
Click to expand...
Metal is the same. Casting is the same. Casting number is the same. Block is the same. It's all the same.

Just 5 more holes a piece for the heads. And 2 more holes for the 2 center caps.

A good machinist can turn a virgin stage-I into a stage-II. Done.

This is what was done to my current block.
 
If you want to retain stock oiling system you can’t do the 4 bolt caps. Number 2 main would cover the oil pick up...
 
getchasum said:
If you want to retain stock oiling system you can’t do the 4 bolt caps. Number 2 main would cover the oil pick up...
Click to expand...
Yes. Correct. And thank God for this.

But why would you want retain the stock oiling system anyway at this point? If a person chooses to use a stage block, it would be to take advantage of all it's additional strengthening characteristics. And there will be added costs and configuration changes that go with building it this way. These changes and expenses should then be accounted for. I don't understand why anyone would bother otherwise. To leave it as a 2 bolt main block is almost like building a stock block. Even the 14 bolt heads are not going to help if your caps blow out through the oil pan. You may be better off with 8 bolt heads and a girdle on a 109. At least the head may lift and the gaskets will let go first. Why go for the $3000+ for a stage block?

Besides, the stock oil pick-up from the block, and circuitry through the front cover, and back to the block sucks by comparison.
 
I was told but can not verify that some of the stage2 3.8 blocks are siamese bore therefore can bore out more.
 
I was told you can verify the Siamese 3.8 stage 2 Off center 25500012 block by the set of square coolant passages between the cylinders as pictured...
3.jpg
5.jpg
8.jpg
 
So can someone clearly define a Siamese block for us? I googled it and am still confused because the photos used to illustrate the difference look to me to be the same thing sometimes.

In the photos on gnttype.org, the Siamese blocks appear to have two coolant passages along side each other above and between each cylinder. Is this Siamese?

When I Googled the info, the definition of Siamese is cylinder bores without coolant passages between them. Is this Siamese?

When I look at the photos above, I see coolant passages along side each other (round and square) with steam holes between each bore. Is this Siamese?

Can someone clearly define what a Siamese or not Siamese stage block look like. Also, are the steam holes desirable or are non desirable for a serious performance build engine?

You know what? .....................................I'm posting these questions into a new thread. Can you guys join me there?
 
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