Zy-Glo and Magnafluxing drum and input shafts?

jakeshoe

Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
I know the billet pieces are the way to go here. But will checking these areas very closely show any potential flaws early on, or is it a lost cause?
My theory is to run it till it breaks then upgrade...
Any thoughts?
 
Yeah,
I MAY buy the good stuff.
My Chevelle will be the recipient for the 200. It is mostly just a cruiser but has a pretty torquey 427 BBC in it and severe traction problems. I figured if I kept the street tires on it the trans might last. I'm pretty sure with slicks I'd break the stock stuff from what I've read.
If the trans works as good as I think it will I will probably buy all the good stuff.
I did the Th400 in my car when I first got it going. Broke the intermediate sprag so upgraded the parts and changed valve body kits to correct shift timing.
I put the HD sprag in the rear of the trans in backwards :) so had to redo my work.
ATSG manual was confusing and I fuqqed up.
Anyway,
I repulled the trans, completely disassembled, corrected problem, reassembled, and reinstalled and was driving in less than 2 hours.
So needless to say it is quick and easy to pull a trans on my car.
If the 200 works well I'll save and buy the good parts, and depending on my tax return may buy them anyway.
Been crunching numbers,
gonna be into this conversion $1000 with no billet parts other than the Super servo. Not including converter either.
So then the billet parts add to this, probably another $1000.
Billet forward drum and good input shaft.
 
you can run the stock input shaft vs our 4340 but i would look into our 4340 drum.if you are running non lock up you lessen the risk of breaking the shaft .if you are using the lock up ,i would not remove the flow restrictor from the input shaft as the harder l/up may snap the shaft .86 to 90 shafts seem to be the better of the 3 factory designs .in vany case use our forward drum ,unless you care to gamble .www.ckperformance.
 
Top