strikeeagle
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From 10.99 to 9.99. What say you, boys???
1 Second = $25,000???
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"strikeeagle
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OK, let's see if I can do a better job of explaining myself. Now and then you see a post that someone broke into the 9s and it looks from thier information they have a full blow race car with a stage motor, a 400, and all the supporting goodies. I know you can break into the 10s with a stock TR with bolt-ons and using the stock, unported heads. So, does chopping off that extra second cost about $25,000???
Cheeseburger
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Once you get to a certain point it becomes VERY expensive!
A car to brake consistant 9s would have alot of $$$$ tied up into it.
Best bet is to buy a car already done if that is what you are looking for.
HTH.
A car to brake consistant 9s would have alot of $$$$ tied up into it.
Best bet is to buy a car already done if that is what you are looking for.
HTH.
The guy that broke into the 9s has a street car, hydraulic roller cam, get 22mpg with a t400 trans, This was all done for reliabilty. And dont judge much by the ET, Check out the MPH!!..
Most guys that break into the 9s run in the low 130s
By no means do ihave 25,000 in my whole car, So i know it can be done for less
Most guys that break into the 9s run in the low 130s
By no means do ihave 25,000 in my whole car, So i know it can be done for less
TR Custom Parts
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AND he can drive it 40 miles to a cruise night.
I'd guess high 10's to high 9's (one time) at about $10,000
if you wanna stay in the 9's......add another $10,000 (safety requirements alone will eat up a chunk.....)
breaking into the 9's at 140 just means a crappy 60' time
most folks do it at 135 or so
if you wanna stay in the 9's......add another $10,000 (safety requirements alone will eat up a chunk.....)
breaking into the 9's at 140 just means a crappy 60' time
most folks do it at 135 or so
Still figuring out how much $$ and time it takes to keep a car deep into the 9's. on a per pass basis.
The BIGGEST factor is to have your engine built RIGHT by a known BUICK specialist so it will last. Anybody can build a pocket grenade that will make a couple of passes. Start factoring in your time and $$ to go back into the motor and fix this and fix that. It is unbelievable how much the the littlest details overlooked affect durability.
Spend the $$ the first time and it will make your time at the track a lot more enjoyable.
I do not buy the $25,000 for 10's to 9's. It can be done for way less than that if you are starting with a quality motor and just throw on a bigger turbo and injectors.
The BIGGEST factor is to have your engine built RIGHT by a known BUICK specialist so it will last. Anybody can build a pocket grenade that will make a couple of passes. Start factoring in your time and $$ to go back into the motor and fix this and fix that. It is unbelievable how much the the littlest details overlooked affect durability.
Spend the $$ the first time and it will make your time at the track a lot more enjoyable.
I do not buy the $25,000 for 10's to 9's. It can be done for way less than that if you are starting with a quality motor and just throw on a bigger turbo and injectors.
And make sure your fuel pressure regulator line is on tight!!!!
I almost lost my motor the other day when it blew off.
Car fell right over quick, and i let right out,phewwwwwwww
My motor was built by RPE MACHINE in West Hartford CT. He is one of the best if not the best with these motors imo.
I almost lost my motor the other day when it blew off.
Car fell right over quick, and i let right out,phewwwwwwww
My motor was built by RPE MACHINE in West Hartford CT. He is one of the best if not the best with these motors imo.
strikeeagle
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KLM,
I congratulate you on your accomplishment. I always thought that extra second was scarey money. Whether it is or isn't matters less than having fun at what you're doing!!!
I congratulate you on your accomplishment. I always thought that extra second was scarey money. Whether it is or isn't matters less than having fun at what you're doing!!!
One factor that most people overlook is weight! How much the car weighs makes a big difference!!!!! It's much easier to get a car in the 9's that weighs 3000lbs compared to a full weight PIG that weighs 3600-3700lbs or more.... Obviously weight also has a lot to do with parts breakage because the lighter car won't have to make as much power as the heavier car to run a given ET/MPH therefore if you're gunning for 9's with a stock block it's not a bad idea to think about some weight reduction although most guys like to say they did it with a full weight/full interior type car....
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
Good point. That is one part that should have special attention to. You can "fake" out your FAST to read your high boost/timing tables if your MAP sensor line comes off, and that will cover your butt, but if the fuel pressure regulator line comes off, I hope there is some serious injector there to cover the +25% enrichment table, which I wouldn't want to take a bet on.
I ran braided lines on my wastegate lines to rule out the probability of a connection coming loose on that too.
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