10w-30 to 20w-50

I'm about to do it. I had a long conversation about this with a popular engine builder for these cars and is also a member of this forum. He told me that because of the low oil pressure these cars have, it would be a good idea to do it. Others have said that the clearances are too tight, but he doesn't seem to think so. I'm going to go with VR1 20w50 and a Wix (sp) oil filter. My car has a stock unopened motor with almost 200,000 miles on it. I figure if it messes something up, it's a perfect time to rebuild :biggrin:
 
cant remember, don't quote me on this but i think it was nick micale who told me DO NOT go to a 20w50 on my 20,000 mile stock car. either way i was told by someone on here
 
What is your oil pressure at idle/cruising/high RPM's? Have you considered a booster plate or a high volume pump?
 
Dont use a high volume pump it will wear out something i think your cam gear..I cant remember what it was all i remembered from reading was its not a good idea...Or mabye it was a high pressure pump idk but im sure someone will chime in...
 
If you're driving it in the winter I would wait until it warms up. If it's rattling when cold started thicker oil might aggravate the problem. It will take longer to circulate the cold thicker oil. Is this a new problem or ongoing? If its something new you might just have a defective anti-drainback valve in your oil filter.
 
My dad and I go around about oil all the time. Put a gauge on it! If oil pressure is good with thinner oil, then you're better off running the thinner oil. It'll flow more volume which will lubricate AND cool your motor better. Oil is also a coolant and not just a lubricant. Plus, if you have good oil pressure with thinner or at least factory recommended viscosity, then you are simply giving up HP by pushing the thicker oil through your engine. IMO, if it's unopened, run the factory recommended 10W-30; if you have 200k on your motor and oil pressure is verified low, then a thicker oil may make your old engine live a little longer, but don't change what isn't broke. You made it this long without changing right?
 
I see your point and I agree with you. With my car however, it has almost 200k miles on an unopened motor. It has good oil pressure but when the motor heats up and the oil gets thinner, I got a knock at the bottom end somwhere toward the front of the motor. I'm going to try and get it rebuilt this summer or next fall I just want to make it last just a little longer.
 
whats your cold start up oil pressure with that 20w-50 molasses?
50 weight oil seems awfully thick...unless you're auto-crossing?
 
I see your point and I agree with you. With my car however, it has almost 200k miles on an unopened motor. It has good oil pressure but when the motor heats up and the oil gets thinner, I got a knock at the bottom end somwhere toward the front of the motor. I'm going to try and get it rebuilt this summer or next fall I just want to make it last just a little longer.

If there is a knock, there's more to the issue than what oil is going to solve...imo
 
If there is a knock, there's more to the issue than what oil is going to solve...imo

I'm going to fix it, I just can afford to right now. I'm in the process of saving up and buying parts to build the motor I want. If the motor craps out now, that's ok, but for now I want it quiet...
 
20/50 wt. you won't hurt a thing and you may even be pleasantly surprised.

And that bottom end noise that may be a problem the thicker oil will be a plus and not a minus.
 
That's what I'm hoping. Since I live in Florida and in the summer temps regularly reach into the high 90s and it doesn't really get all that cold here, I figured it wouldn't hurt. Now if I lived up in North Dakota or some place like that I wouldn't recommend running it. I guess it also depends some on your climate too.
 
I'm going to disagree with most of the last two posts. Cold startup with a 20w-50 it still going to take longer to move oil than with a 10w-30. Also, unless you happen to have reviewed the CS and pour ratings of several different brands at different temps then the climate comment holds about as much water at a colendar. If I was you 87gnguy I'd seriously consider popping a couple of caps off and taking a look at what you have going on. You can put new bearings in the car with the crank still in it for under $100 so if you really want to nurse your car along that may be a route you should explore. Just dumping a heavier oil in it because it's making noise should be left to 16 year old boys that redline their 1.6 liter Ford Escort on almost every shift despite the fact that it has had a fairly viscious rod knock since they bought it and put a new head on it and they don't the money to buy another car.
 
The knock turned out be a loose belt against the tensioner due to an incorrect size belt, due to cheap hypertech pullies. I have everything on order including a tensioner and feel this will solve the tap. I eventually used Valvoline Vr-1 10w-30 with a bottle of zddp.
 
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