11" bolt on brakes

So here is the list as I understand it for everyone.

1. Spindles from a 98' to 05' 2 WD 4 door s10 blazer.
2. Calipers (dual piston) from a 98' to 05' 2 WD 4 door s10 blazer.
3. Rotors for 98' to 05' s10 blazer. (can be aftermarket or stock)
4. New flexible brake lines from a g body monte carlo or use an adapter (2 edelmann 258340 3/16- 1/4 brake line adapters) for the blazer brake lines.
5. Cut the ABS wire harness off the hubs.

The stock master cylinder from a gbody car will work. Finding out if it makes the brakes softer or spongey at all.
 
Blazer and S-10 truck used the same booster and MC.They are different than the G-body. The stock G-body MC will work fine. Forget about the volumn BS. A larger bore MC will just decrease the firmness of the pedal. The stock 24mm(7/8") will give you a little firmer pedal and more clamping force at the caliper. How much is another debate.
 
Lee Thompson said:
I just did this swap.
The S-10 2WD flex brake line is larger or @ least different size, so either buy new S-10 flex lines (BTW I could not find them in aftermarket steel braided) or use an adapter to be able to use steel braided G-body lines. And yes Monte of the same year is the same. ..............I am having a problem with the wheels not spinning as freely as with the stock setup. The calipers are not corroded==the bearings are free--it's as if my calipers don't retract enough which leaves some drag on the rotors.

brake hose collapsed internally?? why don't you try swaping over to the correct diameter hose so you don't need to use the adapter?
 
hunter_alexande said:
Gbody olds, you did this swap?

And you didnt change the master cylinder?

You dont have any other booster or anything correct?

How do the brakes feel? Are they spongey or soft?

Do they feel just as firm as they did before the conversion?

Hope you dont mind me asking so many questions. Just trying to get all the facts to put in my post so everyone has the hard data.

Thanks

Craig

I have done this swap multiple times I have never changed the master cylinder, and I have always used earls braided lines (for a G body). the pedal feels just as it did before the conversion but the brakes feel more responsive.
 
Keep in mind that fluid volume and MC bore size becomes more important when swapping to rear discs. Just something to keep in mind. On our G-body disc swap builds we like to use 3rd gen. Camaro prop valves and MC's-but that's another story. We're currently mocking an '81 Regal for late model rear Blazer discs w/integrated E-brakes...should work nicley together with our 12" brakes up front already...yes, B-body spindle swap with no bumpsteer problems here.-Jabin
 
I have the S 10 front brake conversion and I am noticing a lot of drag on the rotors. I thought by bleeding the brakes it would take care of the problem but it has not. Anyone have any ideas on getting this resolved?
Thanks,
Jeff
 
I have the same problem

I rebuilt the caliper before I installed mine. Powerbrakebob says to assemble the pistons DRY which I DID NOT. I have yet to get around to dis assemble and dry them. I did use lube when I put the pistons in. The square o-ring trying to return to its original shape when pushed out is all that pulls the piston back. Makes sense to me.
 
troubleshooting

"I am having a problem with the wheels not spinning as freely as with the stock setup. The calipers are not corroded==the bearings are free--it's as if my calipers don't retract enough which leaves some drag on the rotors"
did anyone figure out what the problem was...don't wanna go throu with the swap if its gonna cause me problems!
 
yes,I did

"I am having a problem with the wheels not spinning as freely as with the stock setup. The calipers are not corroded==the bearings are free--it's as if my calipers don't retract enough which leaves some drag on the rotors"
did anyone figure out what the problem was...don't wanna go throu with the swap if its gonna cause me problems!

Just did a setup for a friend--WHEN rebuilding the calipers install the pistons and seals DRY--NO LUBE--his has 0 drag. Now if I can find time to do mine.
 
Any update on this project?

A bunch of guys over at Malibu Racing are looking to do this coversion as well

Any help you can give us is greatly appreciated.
 
what kind of a update are you looking for? there has been so many different thing posted in this post.
 
Lots of good info in this thread. I have a set of front assemblies coming my way. One thing I am still a little confused on is the brakes lines. I cannot seem to locate g-body braided lines from Earl's. They do not even list any for a GN, and the last listed year Monte is either '77 or '79. Any help on this aspect is appreciated.
 
Ok, I just purchased a stainless line kit from Gbodyparts. I hope this kit works. I will update once I receive all the parts.
 
I just picked up the spindles, calipers, rotors off a 2WD 99 blazer. I'm gonna order the earl's braided mc brake lines, then it'll bolt right on? This should be a sticky!
 
Hydroboost Vs Vacuum Vs Powermaster

The Gain In That System Is The Increased Piston Sq Inches Of Area. Pressure = Line Pressure, Multiplied By The Sq. Inches Of Piston Area. Ie; 1000psi Times 1 Sq In. =1000psi. 1000psi Times 2 Sq In. = 2000psi. 1000psi Times 6 Sq Inches= 6000psi Against The Pads. Longer Pads Do Not Have Necessarily Have More Friction, But Will Last Longer, And Absorb More Heat. It Is Really Important To Remember The Amount Of Brake Dust On The Front Wheels. This Means That The Rear Brakes Do Very Little. Those Stock Rear Brakes Are Part For Part The Same As An S10 Pickup. Not Enough Pressure To Stop A Substantially Heavier And Faster Car Such As The Gn. The Manual Brake 7/8" S10 Cyls (up From 3/4") Provide Higher Pressure Against The Shoes Due To The Increased Area Of The W/cyl Piston Size. This Helps Balance The Brakes From Front To Rear. The Front Brakes Should Do 60-65% Of The Stopping Not 90% As The Factories Set Them Up With. The Factories Set Up Fwd Drive Cars With Weak Rear Brakes Because There Is No Weight On The Rear Of A Fwd Car. Don't Forget The Hydroboost To Really Haul The Car Down From Any Speed, With Less Rotor Heat.
 
that really looks like a great set up. the duel piston's calipers must be better then the stock stuff. i wonder how much heavier this is then stock?

The S-10 set up & the LS1 conversion both weigh 50 lbs each, the stock set up weighs 41 lbs. If you use the 36 mm hollow front sway bar you drop 6 lbs. I have built both set ups, but have the LS1 on my car because I had GTA wheels to begin with. I will post pics of all 3: stock, S10, & LS1 setups later this week.
 
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