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180* vs 160*

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we4Mateo

Double you eee what?
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
4,381
I still have my stock head gaskets in tact on my 65k mile engine, and I'd like to keep them if I can. I also have a stock radiator so the car runs a little warm. I've heard from a few engine builders that running an engine warmer, at least warmer than 160*, keeps everything a little tighter and thus may help with head gaskets. I also met another TR guy at a track not on the boards that runs 35psi all the time with a te44 turbo and stock thermostat. He stated that the higher temp thermostat eliminated all his head gasket issues at that boost level he was having.

Any one else have any opinions on this? I'm thinking of going to a 180* thermostat when I put the fbody rad in over the winter. I'll take a small hp loss to keep the stock head gaskets in it until I'm ready to build it up.
 
not true never heard of that. a 160 is recommended for upgraded chips. the cooler the better. less chance of detonation.
 
160 isn't always better, sometimes some stock parts are better left alone.


I use the 180 myself, after using both 160,stock(192). I think he is right about making heads tight. To me the piston rings and other parts have to be right TEMP to expand and seal.

If you think of a engine oil cooler, you can't use the BIGGEST cooler with a fan on all the time. It won't let the oil come up to opt temps. Cooler isn't always better, some things need to be hot enough to do their part.

We all have our own way of running our motors, i say 180 or stock is fine, just use a good one.
 
If it's a daily driver I would run a 180* thermostat especially in the winter time. In the summer I think a 160* would be ok. I run a 160* in the summer but I don't turn the fan on until 180*, off at 175*
 
I don't know about you guys, but I'd like to see some proof (not that I'm doubting anyone here, I'm just analytical) that some of our parts are being held back from doing their jobs more effectively, because they're not over 180 degrees. 170 degrees is plenty hot...
 
not true never heard of that. a 160 is recommended for upgraded chips. the cooler the better. less chance of detonation.
X2!...I've never heard of a performance car running better when the engine is hot...:rolleyes: Back when my car was stock, changing the thermostat was one of the first mods I did and the car immediately ran better with the 160° when compared with the 190°...I've never tried a 180° though...:frown:
As for "winter" driving, most GN's are stored during that period, but if you really have to drive it, the 180° should be fine.

Claude. :)
 
I don't know about you guys, but I'd like to see some proof (not that I'm doubting anyone here, I'm just analytical) that some of our parts are being held back from doing their jobs more effectively, because they're not over 180 degrees. 170 degrees is plenty hot...

I always thought the same but the TR guy I met that stopped blowing headgaskets by simply changing a thermostat has me thinking. He ran 35psi, no knock either way, at 160 and they'd blow after a few passes. Hotter tstat, tune the same, problem solved. Sbc guys with aluminum heads state they make more power @ 200*. Heat makes power as long as knock is controlled. As far as my TR goes, I think a 160 is fine with a stock radiator but a new radiator may make it too cool, which I thought could never be done on a TR!
 
What I've seen over the years is that most Turbo Buicks want to run over 180 degrees under normal conditions. Installing a front mount usually makes this number even higher.

Running a 160 thermostat will only control the opening temp. Once the thermostat is open the coolant temp will be dependent on ambient conditions and the condition of your cooling system.

As far as the guy running 35 psi boost with a TE 44 I think he's pulling your leg because there is no real gain above about 26 psi with that turbo.

Neal
 
X 2 for Neal's comments.

Ran a 160 for 22 years on my car stock headgaskets only 25psi. though. :p

First mod. on the car.

20 psi. in the winter on the snow tires.

Run all winter and these past few years it's been cold enough it doesn't get much over 140 degrees with an old stock core radiator anyway.

Under 20 degree air temps. I never see 160 even once it opens and the car is moving.
 
To correct some misinformation in some posts:
Stock temp from the factory was 180.
 
on my car

i started with the 160* and i never had any knock at low boost (10-13PSI NO alky).

then some one said that 180 was best for Power enrichment OR that i wouldn't get PE at a too low of a temp So like a dummy i put in a 180* and after the 180* went in, i started getting KR at low boost. (10-13PSI NO alky)
now i have the 160* back in and no more low boost KR.
just my .02
 
To correct some misinformation in some posts:
Stock temp from the factory was 180.

You're correct. I forgot to throw that in.

Neal

when talking stock i guess you also have to consider at what temp the computer turned on the fan

for example my TT chip turns on my fan at 166* sitting still at idle my temps go up but once i get going (in the winter) they have dropped as low as 150*:eek:
was it a bad thermostat or just a slow one???? another topic for another day.
 
when talking stock i guess you also have to consider at what temp the computer turned on the fan

for example my TT chip turns on my fan at 166* sitting still at idle my temps go up but once i get going (in the winter) they have dropped as low as 150*:eek:
was it a bad thermostat or just a slow one???? another topic for another day.


I remember my car ran pretty well with the stock chip in the old days then the "recall" chip came and that made the car run much hotter. Hated that one drove me to get an aftermarket chip.
 
I really think you should take what that guy is telling you with a grain of salt. I ran a 44 for 3 or 4 years and it was pretty much all over at 25-26 lbs.
35lbs. off a 44 ??????????
 
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