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1987 Buick Grand National - Maryland $5500

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boost

Any idea why the engine isn't making any boost?

I wish I knew... I swapped the turbo, DP gasket, and wastegate actuator. Bypassed wastegate solenoid with the use of RJC boost controller (as seen in engine pictures) from my T-type. Still no luck. I used my scanmaster and saw INT & BLMs were normal and no SES light. Makes hissing noise under load like a boost leak but doesn't run rough like a head gasket. My next guess would be intake manifold gasket. Considered taking it in to andersons but I have feeling I wouldn't let it go if it were fixed... It makes my head hurt just thinking about it.
 
T-Top?

Just saw your ad......

You definately posted the good and the bad.....

I recognize some of our parts on your car.......I can't be that far away form you.....

email me denniskirban@yahoo.com your phone number if you fail to sell it we may be able to make a deal as I buy project cars for parts and have truck & trailer.

I can't be sure in the photo but are the T Tops factory GM? On the trunk ID label does it state CC1 for the tops?

Again I m like a last resort...

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Ooo.... I'm not sure (first T-top car)... They certainly look like original GM T-tops and I didn't realize anyone made aftermarket T-tops? Is there any way I can find out? Thanks for the info.
 
On the RPO tag inside the trunk on the trunk lid look for CC1 code. That is the factory option code for t-tops.
 
Just wondering are you selling your scanmaster? Thanks

No. Sorry that was borrowed from my T-type for testing. but I am considering selling the car with a used (about 3000 miles) 3" Terry Houston Downpipe + Test-pipe w/cutout. I bought it new for around $680.
 
still for sale?

plz call me at 1nine17 2nine nine 572eight thank you...
 
CARFAX Report

Hey,

I just ran a Carfax report on the car. There is an alert for an odometer problem due to the odometer exceeding it's mechanical limits. Other than that, everything else looks pretty good. Please see for yourself...
 

Attachments

Thanks

Man, if i had the $$$$ What a temptation!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the free bump! I think it's a pretty fair price. I just wish I had the time for two turbo buicks. In case some of you missed my updated posts:

- *Driver's side floorboard is fixed
- *Drivers seat mounting bracket/seat track fixed/replaced
- *Brakes are fixed: new calipers, new S10 7/8" manual wheel cylinders, Ceramic shoes and pads, replaced accumulator.


Parts included:
-Built in Radar Detector
-Genuine GM Weatherstripping
-Car Cover
-Original GM T-top Covers/Bags
-Optional: 3" SS THDP & 3" Testpipe w/cutout (price will not be as flexible if included)
 
Pictures

Here is a picture of the repaired floorboards. A buddy of mine cut out the rusted section and welded in this piece of sheet metal. From inside it fells like the facoty floor. it's sturdy and is safer to drive around.

08312010141.jpg

Here is the RPO sticker for those interested:

08312010136.jpg
 
Other pictures

A caller interested in the car mentioned that they were concerned with a possible rust hole (Seeing too much light) under the wheel wells from this picture:

edit.jpg

I had to take a second look myself and took a closeup shot to show there is no major rust in this area.

08312010138.jpg



Another caller asked about the condition of this section of the door jambs saying he's known this area to crack on T-top G-bodies. I could see no evidence of such damage:

08312010140.jpg

08312010142.jpg

I hope these shots help those who are interested.
 
Update

The battery drain has been fixed over the past weekend. It was quite simple. There was a wire (for a device no longer installed in the car, I suspect) tied into the fuse box BAT port which was drawng about 0.25 amps. I disconnected it, checked it, and now only 7 mA are being drawn from the battery total with the ignition off (for the radio clock and ECM). This draw over time had taken it's toll on the battery so I replaced it.
 
In that wheel house pic.. I think he meant were the rust was patched over with goo and undercoated. There is rust holes under there.don't want to step on toes... I would not let your friend do any more repairs on the car. That repair is horrible and with the huge gap dirt ,salt ,water will be in there and total the rest of the remaining good floor in short order, Best to sell it as is so someone can do a quality job on the rust repair. or use the gn specific parts to clone a rust free regal.
 
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