FIRST thing you do is
install a pressure gauge. See if under acceleration, pressure is dropping or fluctuating. If it is , it could be something as simple as the pick up and pan assembly. However, here is the screwed part of this. It only takes ONE good slip in direct to wound it. So if this does turn out to be the problem, you may end up replacing the high clutch anyway but at LEAST you will not do it again. As far as dual feeding the high clutch, it is a good idea on tbrk units and I agree it will put more holding force to the clutch, don't get me wrong. But , you also have to compensate for that extra volume of fluid and the high clutch circuit of this trans is longer than most. So in turn, you have to slow the band release down or it may even give you a worse flair than you had to begin with. I only dual feed the brake transmissions. Also, if you dual feed with a stock forward drum and it ever shifts locked up on the 2-3 , kiss that baby goodbye. So is dual feeding the high clutch a good idea? Well, yes in SOME cases. However, most do not have the knowledge, or time, to play with apply and release to get right as the pros here do. Clearences become ALOT more critical. Most of you who play at home on your own may get frustrated quickly and hurt something in an attempt to make something "better". Have we all been there or what?
I would , before anything else, put a gauge on it and ride with someone and have them call out what the pressures are. Have someone ride with you as we would like you alive to report back what pressures you do have
Also, I have come out with a new direct clutch piston that "should" help distribute the apply force more evenly to the whole clutch face, reducing even more, the need to dual feed.
If your direct clutch is worn and has excess clearence to begin with Dual feeding is going to hinder your progress not help it.
Bruce
WE4