20x10 on rear had good traction with 17# boost. Better than radials. Seem to have decent traction with 22# I wasn't driving. Tuner/mechanic was. Tires barked really quick and put me into the seat. I can let you know in a few days.
You need to roll read fenders and monitor rear passenger fender well for rubbing if you're going to lower. Your CPU harness is back there. Get gnx notch panel from gns performance to protect the location. Good upgrade anyway.
I wouldn't go any bigger.
I agree it won't hurt anything… BUT i would definitely upgrade your brakes! Besides looking bad with the small rotors and large rims [IMO] it is also adding a lot of rotating mass to a mediocre stock braking system.
And as long as they tuck - do it! its your ride…. if it can't tuck…….welllllll
Rims size is everybody's own opinion. I had put 24s on a regal I had painted just so I could sell it. Let me tell you that it sold quick. It had air shocks in the back already so no lift of any sort needed. But me personally I would never go any bigger than 18s on my GN..
The only thing it will hurt is your front bumper and someone else's rear bumper when the brakes don't stop the car.
As stated above, you are adding a lot of reciprocating mass to brakes that weren't good enough to stop the car well the way it came from the factory.
If you are significantly upgrading the brakes, then go for it ( I guess). Otherwise, proceed with caution
That's not entirely true. Weight is the least important factor. The fact is that it takes a lot more energy to turn those wheels because the weight is farther from the centerline. So it obviously takes more energy to stop them.The energy is seen in the form of heat, which is a braking systems enemy.
Most of these "donk" cars don't ever take that into consideration because it looks "cool".
You may think your brakes work fine, but in reality they are working harder than they were engineered to. The disk/drum setup was barely (that's being generous) adequate for stock wheels diameters and power levels. They may suffice, but they are not operating as intended. Thus, when you add a 5" larger diameter wheel (more reciprocating mass) you should invest in a brake upgrade. Otherwise, you are putting your own safety, and others, at risk.
It's not the weight or the polar moment of inertia, it's the distance from the pivot point. The stock brakes pad is about 4 inches from the spindle centerline (the fulcrum). A stock GN wheel has a radius of @13.5 inches. Putting some donk wheels on there moves the effort arm much farther away from the pads and will exert much more leverage on he brake system.
Archimedes once said "Give me a place to stand, and I will move the Earth.". If you make him stand close to Mars he won't move nothin'!
I don't know of anybody running 28" slicks on the front of their GN's.
I'd most likely make fun of them if I seen it.
Then again on performance cars I guess I'm kinda performanced biased. Making something less workable just so it looks different seems kinda backwards to me.
I also don't know too many mud trucks that cover the QTR as quick and as fast as we do..... and have to haul them down as hard as we do. All my friends with big mud trucks spend quite a bit of time replacing the brakes, bearings and universals if they want to have a good chance at making it home every time.
When I see Ferrari's and Porsche's and big 4X4s start coming with 20's and 9 inch disks on the front, I'll revisit my basic physics.
Most of the best looking Pro-Touring cars are running 20's and 22's.So if you like the look go for it,it's your car.If they are done with a good looking wheel I like them personally and if you have the money for a billet wheel then the weight difference is about the same or less than the heavy ass GN steel wheels.