224 / 224 cam?
- Thread starter scot w.
- Start date
Andre Ellis
Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2003
224-224 cam
Yes, we used that cam in our prototype engine w/GN1s and 109 girdle motor.The car ran 134.8 MPH w/25 psi. I would suggest you get your compression to 8.5 or 9:1 .The engine shifts where @ 6000 1-2 & 3 gear and never stopped pulling.The 224-224 also had good street manners but no vacume for brakes I think it would work better with a powermaster brake system.This cam is surely a 9 sec flat tappet, but one thing for sure you won't miss any gas stations.
Yes, we used that cam in our prototype engine w/GN1s and 109 girdle motor.The car ran 134.8 MPH w/25 psi. I would suggest you get your compression to 8.5 or 9:1 .The engine shifts where @ 6000 1-2 & 3 gear and never stopped pulling.The 224-224 also had good street manners but no vacume for brakes I think it would work better with a powermaster brake system.This cam is surely a 9 sec flat tappet, but one thing for sure you won't miss any gas stations.
Andre Ellis
Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2003
224-224 cam
Yes, we used that cam in our prototype engine w/GN1s and 109 girdle motor.The car ran 134.8 MPH w/25 psi. I would suggest you get your compression to 8.5 or 9:1 .The engine shifts where @ 6000 1-2 & 3 gear and never stopped pulling.The 224-224 also had good street manners, but no vacume for brakes I think it would work better with a powermaster brake system.This cam is surely a 9 sec flat tappet, but one thing for sure you won't miss any gas stations.
Yes, we used that cam in our prototype engine w/GN1s and 109 girdle motor.The car ran 134.8 MPH w/25 psi. I would suggest you get your compression to 8.5 or 9:1 .The engine shifts where @ 6000 1-2 & 3 gear and never stopped pulling.The 224-224 also had good street manners, but no vacume for brakes I think it would work better with a powermaster brake system.This cam is surely a 9 sec flat tappet, but one thing for sure you won't miss any gas stations.
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Iv'e got the supporting parts (as seen in my sig) and i'm running a 221/218 in there right now and the vacume brakes are fine, and the gas milage isn't that bad either. Will it really be that big of a differance going from a 221/218 to a 224/224 ??
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
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- Feb 19, 2005
My compresion is 9.5:1
thunderace31
Banned
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2002
Its a big step up the over lap is a lot more than the cam you have. If your looking for drivabilty and have the $$ Id run the roller version of this cam as it will give you about the same vacume as the one you have now 
Im not a roller person but when you get really big it dose help
Im not a roller person but when you get really big it dose help
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Louie i'm not really trying to pick up anything right now. my rockers seam to be going out of adjustment wich makes me think a lobe is going and i have this cam sitting here but just wanted to see how well it worked for other people. Thanks man! Scot w.
thunderace31
Banned
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2002
I just did some reading on this cam and you do need the 9.0 comp. for it to work well. If your lower than that they claim slow or bad throttle responce will occer
But hell if you have the cam give it a try! and post up what you think of it
But hell if you have the cam give it a try! and post up what you think of it
Scott,
Sorry , I didnt know we were talking about flat tappets.
With as much money as you have in the combo you should really invest in a roller cam set up. If the cam is going flat, there is a good chance that the next one will too. If you take the labor and money invested on another flat tappet cam swap, you get pretty close to having a roller set up.
Sorry , I didnt know we were talking about flat tappets.
With as much money as you have in the combo you should really invest in a roller cam set up. If the cam is going flat, there is a good chance that the next one will too. If you take the labor and money invested on another flat tappet cam swap, you get pretty close to having a roller set up.
Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
I do not know what my compression ratio is. Machine work and polish changes things a bit and it is not a competition car. Anyway the 224/224 flat tappet had a bit more big cam sound but ran just fine on the street, 13 in vacuum, fuel and throttle response was OK and great, respectively.
Not sure if it is going to make a difference or if that difference will be worth it. Are you going in for some other reason?
BTW, when I went into my motor, for some other reason, I found that my #3e lobe was going down. It looked OK except that there was no wear pattern over the nose so it was going down.
Not sure if it is going to make a difference or if that difference will be worth it. Are you going in for some other reason?
BTW, when I went into my motor, for some other reason, I found that my #3e lobe was going down. It looked OK except that there was no wear pattern over the nose so it was going down.
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
The reason for going in at this point is a valvetrain noise! The noice is only there after driving the car and everything gets heat soaked, pull into the driveway and let it idle and you hear what sounds like a flutter noice from the pass side. (lifter or rocker noise) the noise comes and goes on a Perffect time frame! it's fine then all of a sudden "flettttterr" and it goes away then comes back and does the exact same thing again. I can let the car cool alittle then start it up and it's fine (no noise!) It's only after driving awhile when it does it. so that's the reason for going in at this point! I don't want to go in unless i really have to. I'm taking the car to (Pudd'n) to look at and hopefully it's don't even need a cam. it almost sounds like a bad lifter to me! Scot w.
Scot w.Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
does sound like a bad lifter but them under hood noises can be damn hard to pin point.
I would just pull the valve covers and see if anything is loose
I would just pull the valve covers and see if anything is loose
You can run alot of duration and still have a totally streetable engine with a turbo motor, as long as the lobe separation is wide, giving you little overlap, delaying the exhaust event to build pressure in the cylinder and improve spoolup, and have a little more lift or duration on the exhaust side. Basically leave the intake lobe where it is, and delay the exhaust lobe. An early opening event on the intake side isnt important. The equal pattern cams that seem to be so popular with TR's are extremely old technology when it comes to camming turbo engines. When it comes to forced induction on small displacement engines, the import world has forced major development in this area over the past 10 years. Those equal pattern cams are 60's technology. yeah they make great power, but you can make alot more power with the same lift and duration and make it way more streetable by moving things around.
But all the power is still in the heads and turbo. Throwing a big cam in a stock headed motor can move the powerband right out of the range where the heads want to operate, and you end up with a power curve thats just about to take off at the rpm where the big cam starts to work, and then the ****ty heads choke it off after that and you end up with a slow car. Every 20cfm or so you add to the stock heads through porting/valve work, add 10 degrees duration and you'll have a happy, efficient motor as long as you keep the overlap down and favor the exhaust events.
But all the power is still in the heads and turbo. Throwing a big cam in a stock headed motor can move the powerband right out of the range where the heads want to operate, and you end up with a power curve thats just about to take off at the rpm where the big cam starts to work, and then the ****ty heads choke it off after that and you end up with a slow car. Every 20cfm or so you add to the stock heads through porting/valve work, add 10 degrees duration and you'll have a happy, efficient motor as long as you keep the overlap down and favor the exhaust events.
"The reason for going in at this point is a valvetrain noise"
Scot,
If you do replace the cam,and stay flat tappet,do yourself a favor and get GM lifters. We have seen many around here, and the GM lifters help this a TON!
If you can not find any, I have an extra set. Not cheap, but any new flat tappet lifter on the market will not compare to the new GM`s.
Brian
Scot,
If you do replace the cam,and stay flat tappet,do yourself a favor and get GM lifters. We have seen many around here, and the GM lifters help this a TON!
If you can not find any, I have an extra set. Not cheap, but any new flat tappet lifter on the market will not compare to the new GM`s.
Brian
puddinpower
Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2005
It had this noise once before, I checked it and it had a bent push rod on #4 intake. Replaced all of the push rods with a new set from Champion. Now the noise is back,not as bad as it was before but still back. I am going to check and see if the push rod is bent again,if so then we have to go in to it a little deeper. Coil bind,bad spring,ETC. Driver side is quiet as a mouse. almost sounds like it has the stock rockers on it. Passenger side does also except for this one rocker/lifter.He has done 2 oil changes since this noise started.No metal in the oil or in the filter mesh.I really do not think ( not cked it yet ) that the cam is wiping. I think it has other problems.
Puddin
Puddin
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Brian PM me the price for the set please, Oh and make sure you add in the supporting customer price! :biggrin: LOL
Under Pressure
New Member
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- Feb 8, 2004
I love mine .Went 126 at 22# 3500lb car 8.5to 1 comp 70turbo
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