Mr URL
Member
Hi guys!! Long time no see!!!
After many years I'm working on getting my '86 T-Type refresh and rebuild from being in storage for years. We are going to go through the entire car from front to back. Poor thing has sat for 7 years. Time to get it back and going!! I have a list a mile long to go through. Friend is going to help me get it going who has owned a Grand National and has always helped me work on the car.
The engine lost most but not all oil pressure (oil pressure rev above 2K is good below is zero!) all because dumb me didn't realize when I put on used/refreshed PT&E iron heads it had roller cam springs in it (300+ lb!) instead of about 100lb for flat 206/206 cam. Broke rockers, push rods, and punched holes in the lifters!! No holes in the block and not blown up per say. I heard it squeak on low oil pressure which tells me the hard parts and bearings touched a time or 2.
I plan on getting the engine redone by Anderson Performance. I think they will do a great job. I don't trust the local Chevy guys to do it right!
The car has best ran a 11.0 with 91 octane gas and alchy injection @ 24 psi boost and no knock on 10" slicks. 1.51 60 ft. TE-63-E turbo, 62mm ported stock throttle body and ported upper, stock unported intake, 3" TH DP, 3" single shot exhaust, 50lb injectors, Red Armstrong double pumper, CAS stock location V4R intercooler changed to street height (1 of 1), 206/206 flat tappet cam, PT&E ported iron heads, Bob Baileys alchy chip (23 degrees timing), LS1 MAF, etc and basic upgrades.
This car expects to live mostly on the street but can handle a 9 sec quarter if turned up. Converting to E85 after break-in. Plan on turning the car down to high 10's for the street. I need to upgrade the turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, and more to get to E85.
Any recommendation for a 3.8 stock block build to handle 9's if needed but normally turned down? 4.1 forged stroker with steel caps and girdle or ? Compression ratio? Looking to ARP the entire thing. I already have stud kit on the heads. It has the wire locks on it. Sounds like that isn't the thing anymore? I'm sure Anderson will get me in the right direction but thought I'd start this tread just for discussion sake.
I'm excited to get the car back on the road this year.
After many years I'm working on getting my '86 T-Type refresh and rebuild from being in storage for years. We are going to go through the entire car from front to back. Poor thing has sat for 7 years. Time to get it back and going!! I have a list a mile long to go through. Friend is going to help me get it going who has owned a Grand National and has always helped me work on the car.
The engine lost most but not all oil pressure (oil pressure rev above 2K is good below is zero!) all because dumb me didn't realize when I put on used/refreshed PT&E iron heads it had roller cam springs in it (300+ lb!) instead of about 100lb for flat 206/206 cam. Broke rockers, push rods, and punched holes in the lifters!! No holes in the block and not blown up per say. I heard it squeak on low oil pressure which tells me the hard parts and bearings touched a time or 2.
I plan on getting the engine redone by Anderson Performance. I think they will do a great job. I don't trust the local Chevy guys to do it right!
The car has best ran a 11.0 with 91 octane gas and alchy injection @ 24 psi boost and no knock on 10" slicks. 1.51 60 ft. TE-63-E turbo, 62mm ported stock throttle body and ported upper, stock unported intake, 3" TH DP, 3" single shot exhaust, 50lb injectors, Red Armstrong double pumper, CAS stock location V4R intercooler changed to street height (1 of 1), 206/206 flat tappet cam, PT&E ported iron heads, Bob Baileys alchy chip (23 degrees timing), LS1 MAF, etc and basic upgrades.
This car expects to live mostly on the street but can handle a 9 sec quarter if turned up. Converting to E85 after break-in. Plan on turning the car down to high 10's for the street. I need to upgrade the turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, and more to get to E85.
Any recommendation for a 3.8 stock block build to handle 9's if needed but normally turned down? 4.1 forged stroker with steel caps and girdle or ? Compression ratio? Looking to ARP the entire thing. I already have stud kit on the heads. It has the wire locks on it. Sounds like that isn't the thing anymore? I'm sure Anderson will get me in the right direction but thought I'd start this tread just for discussion sake.
I'm excited to get the car back on the road this year.
Last edited:
Wide open.
