3800 POWER kit pricing

[quickt]

We take on 99% of the LS based stuff here and win with the little 3800. Ok the LS stuff is cheap but soooo boring. Every second car has one.

Same here in Ohio. Love to see the LS stuff on Thursday or Saturday night street stuff. Meat on the hook "Next Round Please"

 

[dandaman]

Our stuff is quite bodgy compared to some of the stage 2 stuff on here lol.... Some are crazy! Yeh looking for 165-170 hopefully. They are a strong little motor that's for sure. We made 717rwhp and 805ft lb torque on a once off dyno run but I noticed when I got home that for some reason he only had his foot at 71% throttle and got out at 6500rpm. Ive always track tuned the car and we had no idea what it made. I spin it to 7500 at the track and it pulls hard all the way. Best of 8.81@158. Still stock crank/block and tty factory main bolts. Just forged piston/rod job. Bullet proof. Even let a mate have a steer and he went 9.0@152 on lower boost and he even left the water pump turned off and it came back to the pits at 124C water temp. Lol! Went 8.9@156 after a cool down and our 8.81 pb the next day. Strong little motors.

 

[GBGN1]

Awsome story!! Your success with the 3800 motor is just fantastic. Keep it up! Definitely a inspiration
For me and others to keep going.

 

[Pronto]

dandaman, can you fill us in more on your build ie; cam, turbo, heads, etc and the trans/converter/ weight of the car etc. That's friggin' impressive. Love the videos.

 

[VtheGNMan]

I have a couple questions on the 3800 swap. This thread seems to be a better place than the build thread.
I am wondering if the 3800 would be easier for engine builders to work on vs the LC2? By this I mean it seems like the qualified engine builders on the LC2s is dwindling down and it seems you really have to know your way around one to build one right. I have read far too many threads of a new engine build going wrong and needing a major repair again shortly after break in. Is there more tolerance with the 3800?
Also it would be nice to have some recommendations as to what a good donor vehicle would be. Is there like a good, better, best? For instance would the super charged 3800 be better to get than a standard no frills 3800? Internals any better in one vs the other?
Any input you might provide would be appreciated!
Going a 3800 seems to be a very good option. Especially if a swap kit components could be made and bring the price down vs all custom pieces.

 

[GBGN1]

I have a couple questions on the 3800 swap. This thread seems to be a better place than the build thread.
I am wondering if the 3800 would be easier for engine builders to work on vs the LC2? By this I mean it seems like the qualified engine builders on the LC2s is dwindling down and it seems you really have to know your way around one to build one right. I have read far too many threads of a new engine build going wrong and needing a major repair again shortly after break in. Is there more tolerance with the 3800?
Also it would be nice to have some recommendations as to what a good donor vehicle would be. Is there like a good, better, best? For instance would the super charged 3800 be better to get than a standard no frills 3800? Internals any better in one vs the other?
Any input you might provide would be appreciated!
Going a 3800 seems to be a very good option. Especially if a swap kit components could be made and bring the price down vs all custom pieces.

Actually most of this info is on my build thread. 3800 is a superior motor i think in everyway but its built tight like a 3.8. Blocks are basicly the same with a series2 and 3. There are some sensor locations that change. Best donor for engine short block(if not rebuilding) would be a supercharged 98-07 fwd. Better rod/pistons in s/c. Then use NA heads. 1998-2002 3800 camaro/firebird for long block and tranny. Great donor would be 98 Camaro/firebird . Pcm/wiring harness/transmission all can be had . But all depending how you want to build your project.*More INfo on my build thread and other 3800 theads.*

 

[VtheGNMan]

Sorry about that, I was reading the build thread from back to front. Starting at the beginning yields a lot of these answers. Keenly watching this a future project when the motor need arises. Thank you for thinking outside the box!

 

[GBGN1]

Thanks for the interest . Happy to answer and ?'s to the best of my ability. If there was a lot more interest I think it would be more common.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

That will be my next build when the time comes

 

[GBGN1]

The over all build is a pita . Anyway you go with the build . But with the right parts it makes it whole lot easier. And parts would be more readily available. I just talked to a major connecting rod manufacturer and with only 7-10 people we could get some outstanding rods made at a very reasonable price.

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

The over all build is a pita . Anyway you go with the build . But with the right parts it makes it whole lot easier. And parts would be more readily available. I just talked to a major connecting rod manufacturer and with only 7-10 people we could get some outstanding rods made at a very reasonable price.

Why not just get the ZZP ones?

 

[GBGN1]

Quality period, molnar rods are much better.
The largest 3800 supplier will not use zzp and I know of a couple others that had to take off a lot of meat to properly balance the rods.

Price would also be better. From what they said.

 

[GBGN1]

This is the info on the rods

 

[Daniel Jost]

Quality period, molnar rods are much better.
The largest 3800 supplier will not use zzp and I know of a couple others that had to take off a lot of meat to properly balance the rods.

Price would also be better. From what they said.

I just bought a set of the ZZP's, what kind of price are we talking and what kind of turn around time? I may be interested in a set.

,Dan

 

[quickt]

I personally have the zzp and they are ok. Only have 3/8 bolts.I would prefer Crower or Oliver if had choice.

 

[GBGN1]

I just bought a set of the ZZP's, what kind of price are we talking and what kind of turn around time? I may be interested in a set.

,Dan

These have the 7/16 bolts which are nice. For the price I was quoted I'd have to get atleast 7 orders together and I don't think that will happen. Price would be less than the zzp's.
When I go through mine I'm getting them.

 

[quickt]

Im in for set.

 

[Daniel Jost]

These have the 7/16 bolts which are nice. For the price I was quoted I'd have to get atleast 7 orders together and I don't think that will happen. Price would be less than the zzp's.
When I go through mine I'm getting them.

Sounds good, I will just go ahead with the ZZP's and in the future I can just build another motor with the new parts if I feel the need to.

Thanks, Dan

 

[GBGN1]

Even with three sets, price wouldn't be bad basically same as zzp's . If we could get 7 price would be the same as getting a set of 3.8 rods. Under $600

 

[dandaman]

dandaman, can you fill us in more on your build ie; cam, turbo, heads, etc and the trans/converter/ weight of the car etc. That's friggin' impressive. Love the videos.

sorry for the late response. We use the stock block and mains with factory torque to yield bolts. Stock crank ( virgin, not ground ). Standard ACL replacement barings. China rods with ARP2000 bolts ( resized and balanced ), Arias pistons .020" Cometic head gaskets. Intense cnc heads ( could be ported better but they seem to work ok ) with a PAC duel spring. Cam is my spec 236/230, only .580 lift. Twin GT3582R with manifolds I made and 2 turbosmart 45mm gates. ECU is VI-pec with M&W cdi. Bosch 2000 injectors. Box is a glide from Neal and convertor is our Aussie spec to about 4800rpm stall ( stretches a bit with high boost to like 5200 ). Weight around 3020 give or take fuel etc. I shift around 7300 and take it out to just under 7500.