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Taking earls advice which he has been 98% correct on btw i drilled 4 steam holes per bank . Matched the gasket up and handled it . Btw he is only that 98% if he has had about 8-10 beers the 2% error is if he has had 14 or more lol jk
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The top row, doesn't need steam holes........ Unless your car is upside down :)


Make sure to use the gasket as a transfer to drill the heads too.
 
I’m in the process of taking the cylinder walls out to 4”. In the picture you will see it’s rough honed to 3.990 I will go back with a 320 grit stone and finish the walls up
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.010 is a lot to take out with that hone. It took me forever to hone .005 on a 3.995 bore. I hope it works out for you. Very interesting thread.
 
I’ve already started with my 320 stone View attachment 310665
Call the people who manufacture your particular ring package. They will tell you how to finish your cylinder walls. Typically,there is a relatively rough initial hone which creates diagonal channels that hold oil.They need to be a certain width and a certain depth. When the stone cuts them in, it creates peaks/mountain tops and valleys/channels. A common stone to use during this process is 280 grit The next step is called plateau honing which sands the tops of the mountains which creates flat areas/plateaus on the tops of the mountains, To accomplish this,you use a much finer grit stone typically 400 grit. There are 2 methods to accomplish this second step. A nylon bristle bore brush. The bristles are made with an abrasive mixed into the nylon. The ring manufacturer will typically tell you to give the bore relatively few strokes clockwise and counterclockwise. The other method is to use one of those ball hones. Typically,you will use one with 400 grit balls on it and will also give the cylinders very few strokes in each direction. Before we started plateau honing,the tops of the mountains were filed flat by the rings moving up and down in the bores during initial start up of a freshly rebuilt engine, This created alot of shrapnel and the rings needed more time to seat. With plateau honing,we get a very good ring to cylinder wall seal immediately.
 
Call the people who manufacture your particular ring package. They will tell you how to finish your cylinder walls. Typically,there is a relatively rough initial hone which creates diagonal channels that hold oil.They need to be a certain width and a certain depth. When the stone cuts them in, it creates peaks/mountain tops and valleys/channels. A common stone to use during this process is 280 grit The next step is called plateau honing which sands the tops of the mountains which creates flat areas/plateaus on the tops of the mountains, To accomplish this,you use a much finer grit stone typically 400 grit. There are 2 methods to accomplish this second step. A nylon bristle bore brush. The bristles are made with an abrasive mixed into the nylon. The ring manufacturer will typically tell you to give the bore relatively few strokes clockwise and counterclockwise. The other method is to use one of those ball hones. Typically,you will use one with 400 grit balls on it and will also give the cylinders very few strokes in each direction. Before we started plateau honing,the tops of the mountains were filed flat by the rings moving up and down in the bores during initial start up of a freshly rebuilt engine, This created alot of shrapnel and the rings needed more time to seat. With plateau honing,we get a very good ring to cylinder wall seal immediately.
Awesome thanks for the info . I switched back to a 280 stone and am at 3.998
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I also drilled and tapped the 1/2” NpT hole for the oil return line
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I also drilled and tapped the 1/2” NpT hole for the oil return line View attachment 310670
I don't want you to necessarily use the grits I talked about.I want you to decide on the rings you will use then talk to the people who manufacture them. They will tell you what grits to use and how many strokes to take during the plateau honing process.
 
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