4" Card-Style MAF

I hAd the 4"maf and the card style honeycomb that I use restricted it too much
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Is the the honeycomb you used? http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
This is the stuff my friend with the 2000 Camaro got.
Here's some interesting reading http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?26546-100mm-Maf-kickin-my-Butt!!!

Pronto, that's the article I've been reading. That honeycomb comes in several different densities and hole sizes. I was going to call the company and see what they suggested. I don't see it becoming a restriction honestly.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Just talked to my friend. He hasn't installed the honeycomb yet. He just got his car back from the paint shop. Got bumped in the rear by an old lady that hit the gas instead of the brake and jumped a curb in the parking lot at his work.:cry:
 
yes thats the one i used .but you can try it might work for you .thats just what happend to me when i took it off it ran and idled better.,
 
just found my pic of it
 

Attachments

  • 033.jpg
    033.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 119
  • 022.jpg
    022.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 112
BP man, from how it looks, you have a step-down from your MAF to your intake. Is your MAF pipe a 3" pipe? I'm going to run 4" all the way to the turbo which is a 3" opening, sadly. I am going to send a text to Bison to see how much an S cover is for my turbo. Would make it easier honestly because I already have a reducer from my turbo outlet to the inlet of my intercooler. Anyways, I feel like reducing to a 3" right after the MAF might have caused some problems. I am no expert though. It certainly is not a restriction at your power level. What size inlet is your air filter?
 
Having 4" all the way might be better overall anyway.
 
I used the 4" card style when I had the stock ecm. The only problem I had was if I was accelerating from a stop sign, RR tracks,etc, then let off while still in first or 2nd when the rpms were up where it was about to shift. It would stumble. There was really only 1 place in my travels that it happened, going over RR tracks, then to a stop sign afew hundred feet away. Other than that it worked and looked great.
 
its a 4 '' filter and yes it goes to a 3'' pipe to the turbo. i always thought the same thing about having the pipe or the travel having to be one size all the way through would be the best way to go.
 
Resistance wise, airflow likes a tapered pipe that gets smaller as it goes along. In this use I like to start off big for the transition from filter flange to pipe. With a K&N it's really a factor as they insist on putting a sharp edge on their base flange. That makes the flow area of the neck act considerably smaller.
 
The AEM has sort of a built in velocity stack on it's base plate. It's also oilless too. That way there's no need to jizz it up with K&N oil so that your MAF gets a nice insulating coating of crud and reads artificially low.
 
The AEM has sort of a built in velocity stack on it's base plate. It's also oilless too. That way there's no need to jizz it up with K&N oil so that your MAF gets a nice insulating coating of crud and reads artificially low.
I will never but a K&N again for a turbo car. AEM all the way!
 
I have an S&B that has a nice taper out the base, not squared off.
 
Thanks for the information. I'll grab an AEM for the 4" setup.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Top