83 turbo carb

[mat231v6]

A knock gauge is like an oil pressure guage but it's hooked up to the knock sensor so you can tell if detonation is occuring. Detonation is what kills engines so it's a bad thing.

A wideband is used to tell whether the engine is running rich or lean. It's a tuning aid and will keep you from blowing the engine up. It goes in the exhaust just after the turbo and looks like an O2 sensor with a guage that goes in the the cabin.

where do you get a cheap wideband? all the ones i have seen are like $150 or more.

 

[charlief1]

where do you get a cheap wideband? all the ones i have seen are like $150 or more.

You just need to keep your eyes open Matt.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

This is the one Im looking at. $175 with everything shipped. It plugs into your computer and pretty much can moniter everything. Ya gotta build it though.

14Point7

The pre built one is $225 shipped. You loose the ability to measure boost press but its still awesome.

14Point7

 

[b4black]

Just like the PEVR valve. According to the factory GM manual I have here it's name is PECV per GM.

Different names for different parts. I believe they changed a little from 1978 to 1979. Same function, but different number of ports.

 

[mat231v6]

You just need to keep your eyes open Matt.

i hope i can get one for the same price i paid for my btm. the sad thing is i could have got it cheaper, but i did the buy it now, and no one bid on the other one for $1.

 

[JUVE11]

pics 83 t type

its a t type I saved from a negligent owner.
just rebuilt the engine, I want it to have more of a kick. something I can just add to it without opening up th engine

 

[usetaboost]

I have the wideband. If I spent more time tuning with it and less time bracket racing, I think I'd have the 13 sec time slip by now. Never made it to the track in 2010.

Now if I were to do the same setup, but with a 4.1 block, ported heads, roller cam.....

I have three regals (actually five if you count the GS's) and a turbo diesel pick up. I've learned the first step to making them faster is to make them driveable. The best research is done on a moving car and not the interent.

EXACTLY! Yes you can learn lots on the internet, but until you apply it to a real world environment it's all just hypothesis. Rich, if I ever get that piece of crap painted in the garage and back on road I'm going to build that el cheapo progressive alky setup. I'm still tossing around a few versions but for the most part they all operate the same. Shorthand of it I plan on using a high psi pump, stock washer tank, cheapo controller and possibly a hobbs switch for turn on point. I'm going to nail everything down if I ever stop being lazy and get everything. It should be able to easily be made fail safe as long as the hobbs switch is good. All the old SMC systems use a hobbs switch for turn on point. I'll let you guys know if I ever get to it. Your map equipped cars can support a 3 bar map sensor can't they?

 

[charlief1]

its a t type I saved from a negligent owner.
just rebuilt the engine, I want it to have more of a kick. something I can just add to it without opening up th engine

A better up and down pipe will help as well as putting alky on it. Go to BEFORE BLACK Website and do some reading up. Rich and I do have some differences on how to mod one of them but I will admit that his site is where you can get basic info about them. One other is petesbuick.html .Very good info but a little dated. Don't know what happened to him but I wish he was still around.:frown:

 

[usetaboost]

Basically any mod you do to an SFI hot air car you do in one form on the carb turbo. Weight saving and suspension mods are always good to do also. At least get aluminum bumper supports and try to find some aluminum drums. THose will be your easiest and best weight savings. I'd do new body mounts, braces and suspension mods before any major engine mods. Do the cheap and effective mods on the engine first like cone filter, exhaust, and a windshield washer tank alky kit.

 

[83turbomon]

Basically any mod you do to an SFI hot air car you do in one form on the carb turbo. Weight saving and suspension mods are always good to do also. At least get aluminum bumper supports and try to find some aluminum drums. THose will be your easiest and best weight savings. I'd do new body mounts, braces and suspension mods before any major engine mods. Do the cheap and effective mods on the engine first like cone filter, exhaust, and a windshield washer tank alky kit.

I agree with this. Ive done alot more body mods than I have engine mods. Frame bracing can be found under several gbody cars at the junkyards, rear seat bracing can be fabbed up if your handy with a welder, and boxed lowers can be found under under some camaros or made yourself.

aluminum is the way to go until you get to the drums. Aluminum can absorb heat quickly. The stock drums IMO are the way to go. you can tighten up the springs a bit. Helped me out.

 

[83turbomon]

A better up and down pipe will help as well as putting alky on it. Go to BEFORE BLACK Website and do some reading up. Rich and I do have some differences on how to mod one of them but I will admit that his site is where you can get basic info about them. One other is petesbuick.html .Very good info but a little dated. Don't know what happened to him but I wish he was still around.:frown:

can larger down pipes be found on Hot air cars?

 

[MNcarbturbo]

No. Plus they need mods. Really the only way is to build your own. Theres room for a 3". But not much!!!

As long as you know a guy with a TIG, have access to a band saw, a mig welder, and some time thats all you need.

 

[charlief1]

can larger down pipes be found on Hot air cars?

Yes and no. If you're talking about an SFI HA car then yes but they aint cheap. If you're talking about CT cars you have to make it yourself or have it made for you.

 

[83turbomon]

Yes and no. If you're talking about an SFI HA car then yes but they aint cheap. If you're talking about CT cars you have to make it yourself or have it made for you.

o I was wondering if the up and down pipes "IF" they would provide a performance gain could be used on CT cars.

 

[b4black]

aluminum is the way to go until you get to the drums. Aluminum can absorb heat quickly. The stock drums IMO are the way to go.

I've had aluminum drums from day one (stock). I don't see a thing wrong with them. It's generally considered a good thing to get rid of rotating mass (i.e. lightweight wheels).

 

[b4black]

its a t type I saved from a negligent owner.
just rebuilt the engine, I want it to have more of a kick. something I can just add to it without opening up th engine

That's exactly what turbos are for. And for the most part, increasing boost is the way to go. Boost gauge, knock gauge, water injection = more kick. Simple.

 

[charlief1]

A larger up and downpipe will help.

 

[b4black]

A better up and down pipe will help as well as putting alky on it.

The alcohol injection helped me drop more than a second off my ET. The downpipe had little effect. I was really expecting more when I did it. Plus the injection is so cheap and easy to do.

 

[charlief1]

The alcohol injection helped me drop more than a second off my ET. The downpipe had little effect. I was really expecting more when I did it. Plus the injection is so cheap and easy to do.

Not arguing with you at all Rich, but every little bit helps in the end.:biggrin: What have you done to the exhaust on your 83 btw?