Neither of my LC2 powered cars leak a drop at the rear and the GN is driven hard. Don't get discouraged, its not that bad to repair. On the TTA I had to remove the motor mount bolts and juack the motor up as far as it would go for the pan the clear the front counter weight on the crank.
Use a think cork gasket if you can find one, I got some from Nick Micale on this board...the cork tolerates a little bit of overtightening, the rubber fle-pros will work but be very careful when tightening the pan bolts.
Another trick, when installing the pan, tie the gasket to the pan with small string except for the rear part as you'll have to push that part of the gasket into the pan because the flywheel will hit the rear of the pan to wedge the oil pan on. Once the pan is past the flywheel, reach in and pull the rear part out then install a few bolts and cut the strings off. Do not use any kind of sealer except a smear over the front cover edges and rear main cap edges.
All the tools you need is a torque wrech, set of sockets, and a universal joint for the sockets....and other common hand tools everyone has.
