A simple rear main seal job turned into this?

[paintitblack]

I replaced the lower #4 main bearing, pulled the #3. Here's some pics. I also did a pressure test on the coolant system and it held steady at 16psi and wasn't leaking anywhere...not down the cylinder walls, nothing.

What's with the orangish/tan looking stuff on the casting between the cam lobes?

Oil filler neck looks fine with no residue either. I'm wondering if I'm being paranoid now.

The stuff between the cam lobes should be paint, usually put on by the factory.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

bearings

I replaced the lower #4 main bearing, pulled the #3. Here's some pics. I also did a pressure test on the coolant system and it held steady at 16psi and wasn't leaking anywhere...not down the cylinder walls, nothing.

What's with the orangish/tan looking stuff on the casting between the cam lobes?

Oil filler neck looks fine with no residue either. I'm wondering if I'm being paranoid now.

all of the buttom was done with motor in the car wasn't to bad to do.

this just happpen to me i lost oil pressure decide to drop pan expect lower & rod bearings. Well found out they where down to copper one even past it so i decide to buy a set of bearing and check oil clreance. Mains turn to be ok but once i checked the two center rod bearing clearnce was way off had to stop there and started to look for a short block until i have money for rebuild. I had a headgasket problem before all this and took care of it but don't know if this was the main cause of everything else going out won't know until tear down.

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Found i short block and also did the same process bearings clearnnce checked out great but still don't hurt to slap a new set of rod & main bearings again.

 

[87geeinn]

update

Well, after an in-depth discussion with Kevin at KDK (great guy to deal with), we both concluded that everything doesn't look too bad. Reasoning has it that the oil didn't look all milk-shaky, coolant looked fine/passed a pressure test, minimal material in the oil pan, pickup screen was actually very clean (surprisingly), oil filler neck checked out okay, etc. At this point, I think the bottom end is okay for the time being. I went ahead and just replaced the 3rd lower bearing, left well-enough alone and buttoned the bottom end up.

As it stands now, next I will cut the oil filter and check for any debris, slap on the new headers and turbo (I know the risk in doing so, but I say f**k it), change the coolant over to distilled water and pump lube, spin the motor over to verify I have oil pressure, and then start it up with fresh oil and filter. I'm going to fire it up and if everything seems okay at that point, I'll shut 'er down and do a compression test to see where I'm at.

It's still possible that I blew a head gasket, however, if I did, I caught it real early and didn't run the motor but for a easy 1/4 mile back to the house before I shut it down. If all goes well, hopefully I can just drain that oil, put another fresh filter on there and break in the new turbo.

Wish me luck! I acquired some headgaskets, intake gasket, etc. in case I have to tear back into it. Jeebus, I'm tired. This sucks doing all of this in the grass, on my back, with just hand tools and no workbench. Half of my time has been spent making sure everything stays clean. My living room has a large 9 x 12 painters drop sheet with tools and parts scattered everywhere.

 

[kingots2004]

good luck but man if ya put your new turbo on and something gets into it that was left in an oil galley or anything then your gonna be at the price of the rebuild to replace the turbo again plus the rebuild. may cost ya even more

 

[87geeinn]

...if ya put your new turbo on and something gets into it that was left in an oil galley or anything then your gonna be at the price of the rebuild to replace the turbo again plus the rebuild.

I really don't have any choice at the moment because the old turbo is trashed. It's grinding on both the compressor and turbine sides, and blowing oil right into the intake. Maybe in the mean time, I will take my oil feed line and find out a way to put a small filter inline to catch any potential debris. Sorta like that one dood did here.

 

[kingots2004]

man you got it down that far it only costs what 200 bucks to get the block cleaned with new cam bearings and freeze plug put in. then you know that your new turbo isnt going to be hurt.

 

[Alky V6]

Sorry for noticing this thread a little late. I have to say that when I first looked at your bearing shell I thought to myself, why does it look like the shell is worn more towards the front edge? Two things came to mind. The crank is flexing like hell or, the cap was lifted in the rear. When I looked at your crank journal picture, the one that includes the rope seal still stuck to the journal, it was pretty clear what happened. Notice how much rope seal is crushed between the cap and block, out of the seal groove.

If it were me, if I had any question in my mind, I would just throw new bearings in the thing and button it up. The journals look acceptable. But on an old motor, I always worry about that front cam bearing.

 

[Just a Six??]

I really don't have any choice at the moment because the old turbo is trashed. It's grinding on both the compressor and turbine sides, and blowing oil right into the intake. Maybe in the mean time, I will take my oil feed line and find out a way to put a small filter inline to catch any potential debris. Sorta like that one dood did here.

Exactly! Add a pre turbo Filter (many choices out there for ready made kits) & IF there is a peice of trash the filter will grab it. I run a small cleanable/reusable one from Mark Hueffman TR Custom Parts. You must use one to be safe at this point! Dont want to trash a nice new Turbo.
There is also the Turbo saver kit for $100 that has a big oil filter on it as well. Just get some kind of filter on it! Protect your investment! Good Luck!

 

[ALVAROG1983]

Check

I really don't have any choice at the moment because the old turbo is trashed. It's grinding on both the compressor and turbine sides, and blowing oil right into the intake. Maybe in the mean time, I will take my oil feed line and find out a way to put a small filter inline to catch any potential debris. Sorta like that one dood did here.

did you check your connecting rods see how the bearing looks there.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Main caps are "walkin around".....Stay out of the 30psi boost and the detonation... May last a while if you do.

 

[Just a Six??]

Main caps are "walkin around".....Stay out of the 30psi boost and the detonation... May last a while if you do.

Exactly, just drive normal & dont race it every stoplight & it will run for a year easy. The little 6 can take that easy enuf.

 

[87geeinn]

Just got a reply back from Kevin at KDK who said he has some concerns about only replacing the lower half of a complete bearing. At this point, I just replaced the lower halves on the #3 and #4 and left everything else alone. He mentioned about the "crush" that holds the bearings in place. I have already put the oil pan back on and filled with fresh oil, although I haven't done much else due to work.

I really don't want to have to pull the pan again, and break the bearing caps loose again, especially the rear main where I've already filled it up with RTV and a new seal. :redface:

OMG, I'm so depressed right now. I thought I was done being underneath the car for a while.

 

[turbo nasty]

Sorry about your luck but you REALLY need to consider doing this the right way. Half a$$ and its gonna just kmake it worse.

Pull it out dude

 

[SNOWBIRD]

The cap was cocked due to the cord seal not being cut properly to fit...look at first pictures u can see fragments of cord that where under cap ...install a fel pro seal..

 

[87geeinn]

Seriously?

...install a fel pro seal..

Umm, yeah, already did that. Hence, the title of this thread.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Just got a reply back from Kevin at KDK who said he has some concerns about only replacing the lower half of a complete bearing. At this point, I just replaced the lower halves on the #3 and #4 and left everything else alone. He mentioned about the "crush" that holds the bearings in place. I have already put the oil pan back on and filled with fresh oil, although I haven't done much else due to work.

I really don't want to have to pull the pan again, and break the bearing caps loose again, especially the rear main where I've already filled it up with RTV and a new seal. :redface:

OMG, I'm so depressed right now. I thought I was done being underneath the car for a while.

It sucks :frown:
But It sounds like it would do you a world of good to walk away from the car for a few days if not weeks. I know its hard but some times it helps more then you think it does.
Good luck Dude.

 

[SNOWBIRD]

A Fel Pro Neopreen Seal....rubber.

 

[Alky V6]

Thank you, Snowbird. I guess I didn't make it clear enough.

 

[87geeinn]

Update

Just in case anyone was wondering about what ever became of this:

I pressure tested the coolant system with the oil pan still off and did not detect any leaks whatsoever. Pressure held at a steady 16psi for over 20minutes. I installed all new main bearings with the engine in the car. I used a cotter pin to roll out and roll in the upper halves. I replaced them using assembly lube, set the thrust bearing and torqued all the caps down to 100 ft. lbs, also with a new Fel Pro rear main seal. Replaced oil pickup, locktited the bolts and torqued them down to 8ft. lbs with a new gasket. Reinstalled the oil pan (bolts to 8ft. lbs).

I also installed HR poly motor mounts, TA stainless headers, new TE60 turbo (ported the wastegate hole), and topped off with a new LT1 MAF and Translator. I ended up having to pull the cam sensor to prime the pump and motor. I also flushed the coolant out and replaced with distilled water and RMI-25.

I then started the car up and let it run for ~30 minutes, shut it down and did a compression test. Results were:

6) 148 5) 148
4) 165 3) 150
2) 165 1) 165

Then I drained the oil and put a fresh filter and new 5w-30w Mobil One.

Loooong story short, I've gradually gotten the boost back up to 23psi and the car feels great. Oil pressure at idle is 10-11psi and about 31-32psi crusing at 65mph. More details on my trials and tribulations can be found here.

BTW, I think the oil just looked greenish when the sunlight was shining on it as it ran down into my black oil drain container. I say this because I changed the oil in my DD and the oil looked the same way in the sunlight. Also, many have commented that the journals on the cranked looked blue. That was just the result of the camera flash. I also discovered during this little project that the engine must have been gone through before because the old bearings were stamped "Fm" which I came to find out that the OEM bearings would have been stamped GM somewhere on them. All of the old bearings were stamped "STD" so I at least installed the correct sizes. Let's just hope I bought myself some time and I don't end up spinning a bearing or something ridiculous.

 

[J-B Racing]

Can`t afford a rebuilt. If this was my case. Depending on how much mileage does this motor have. I don`t think throwing in New Bearing will live long by looking at those Journals. I would take the Crank out from under the car. Have it turned 10/10 and put NEW Bearings. This way you will survive much much longer.

Good Luck