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A thread about DIY Rear Turbos

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Return oil pump:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm

I picked up a Vortech FMU off ebay for under $50, Stock 12 Valve cummins turbo and elbow for $150, oil pump will be $179, a few silicone couplers off ebay and some 2.5" exhaust tubing and mandrel bends to be welded at the shop, going to put MAF/IAT on the intake side of the turbo just like the GN, will post results after installation on the truck!
 
Interesting reading. Wonder how the flow ratings are done? I would imagine maybe water? Pumping oil would change it a good bit.
 
I have a question why can't you just tap in to one of the oil holes on the block and then send the return line to the valve cover?

I have high volume pump on my truck and I never see it come off 60#'s wouldn't that be enough to send oil to the turbo if it is mounted where the cat was.
 
Originally posted by larry33kc
I have a question why can't you just tap in to one of the oil holes on the block and then send the return line to the valve cover?

With the rear installations, the turbo is lower then the oil level in the pan, so it doesn't siphon, so you need the pump to scavenge the turbo, and pump the oil back to the engine.
 
Funny. I posted about 2 months ago about putting a DIY turbo on my truck and nobody replied:confused:

O'well, I think it can be done fairly cheap. I was also thinking about twin turbos on the TTA:eek: How would that be? I figure I can spend 1000 on a new upgraded turbo/convertor or try somthing really neat for around the same price... If it wont work, put the stuff on the silverado..... Any input?
 
I about sh!t my pants the other day when I saw one of them STS kits hanging off the back side of a black 01 or 02 trans am, running around in the middle of Chicago's best winter weather. I heard the turbo spooling loud and clear before I saw it. Seems like those kits are gaining in popularity.

Maybe an OK idea for a beater, but kinda risky for a nice new car.
 
Originally posted by TT/Ameasap
Funny. I posted about 2 months ago about putting a DIY turbo on my truck and nobody replied:confused:

If it wont work, put the stuff on the silverado..... Any input?


I've been thinking about doing my truck (91, 454, 4L8E). Up until running across that thread, the hang up had been the pump for scavenging the turbo. Now, it's about figuring out what to do ecm wise. I hate using one pcm for the tranny and then another for the EFI, but, that might come into play. Other issue is finding a port EFI for a BBC.

I think a 5-7 PSI boost for a BBC would be really neat.

Oh, and just as of this month, www.tunercat.com has released editing stuff for the OBDII trucks.
 
TT/Ameasap, sorry didn't see the thread, don't come over to this board very much anymore.

I'm planning on installing this on my '97 Chevy 1500 4x4 ext. cab, 6" lift, 35" tires, stock 3.73 gears.....hoping the turbo will fix the lack of gears! I'm just having issues finding out what to do about the fuel. Not too sure if the MAF before the turbo will add enough fuel, or if I need to put the 8:1 FMU in the return fuel line, or if I'll have to spend the money to have the ecu programmed for it
:confused: :confused: :confused:
If Vortech sells a supercharger for the thing, without having any ecm mods necessary, I should be able to add a turbo without it also!
 
Hi Bruce,
Why??
Well.. I can only see 2 reasons to go with a remote turbo:
1. aint got the room under the hood, and/or
2. it's considerably cheaper than a conventional setup

So if underhood space is not an issue, then only 1 reason is left: Cheap.

I think a more conventional, more expensive setup would be warranted for a nice car. Both from a performance / thermodynamic standpoint and a heavy rain deep water road grime standpoint. (as has been argued everywhere on the net since STS came on the seen)

but for a beater.. cheap works really well:D
 
For a truck, the turbo doesn't actually get mounted that low. it mounts up high in between the frame rails. But, if you have a 2WD then it will be low, and if you lower the truck, then maybe it is in harms way. Don't know. If you have a 4WD truck, then it is pretty high, and if you lift it, then even higher/better. But, if you go off roading, you are going to need a skid plate for it. I have accumulated most of the parts to put a turbo on my truck, just haven't had the time to put it together. The STS is a nice idea, but as was said earlier, they seem to be if you don't have the space. Well, a Full Size Chevy has lots of room under the hood, so that is where mine is going........if I ever have the time.

Brian
 
Originally posted by MJRWOOD

I think a more conventional, more expensive setup would be warranted for a nice car.

Both from a performance / thermodynamic standpoint and a heavy rain deep water road grime standpoint.

So expensive makes it better?.
Who's going to be running in boost in heavy deep rain?.
How about ease of maintance?.
How about ease of installation?.

No one's claiming it to be a race car setup.
 
well... typically, yes. You often get what you pay for.

Don't get me wrong I think it's neat idea, but I am not in the least bit interested in trying it out on my 04 GTO.
 
I think its a great idea, and when the '95 TA gets a stroked 383 with a little lower compression, I'm going to try an STS rear mount on it. I would try it on my truck, but 10.8 to 1 compression is a little too much for a turbo app.
 
Now my Sentra is scared!

First the propane injection now this. This would be a great place for me to hide the hot air turbos I have.
 
I have a 89 Chevy 4X4 with a 388 stroker motor in it, it has a 4" suspension lift and a 3" body lift, 35" tires w/4.56 gears and a 5 speed this would be great with my setup.

I guess I still don't really understand why you would need a pump for the turbo, It should have more than enough preasure to pump oil through the turbo if you have a high volume oil pump in your motor. I put out over 60#'s with mine.

If I am wrong please explain why

And also I am seeing alot of people talking about putting the turbo in the engine bay, the reason they have it mounted in the rear is so they don't have to run an intercooler for it, the air charge is cooled down by the the time it gets to the motor therefor less of a chance for detonation
 
The reason for the oil pump is not to feed the turbo with oil, but to scavenge the oil from the turbo drain and return it to the engine. The return oil does not "pump" back to the engine under pressure. It usually just gets returned by gravity, sort of dripping or free falling through a drain hose to the engine block. With the turbo being that far away and lower than the oil level in the oil pan, it can't do that. If you don't scavenge the oil and pump it back to the engine, it will seep through the seals and you will fog the people behind you with some nice pretty blue smoke.

Brian
 
What exactly is that Cartech FMU thingy that he has? What can it do that boost referencing the regulator won't??
 
oil drain pump- the oil that leaves a turbo is not oil, but more of a oil foam, thats the reason that the drain on a turbo is so large in respect to the inlet and that the oil drain has to be above the oil line in the pan, the oil foam is too light to force its way under the oil line and it will back up.

FMU - is not a regulator, a boost referenced regulator will keep the effective fuel pressure the same ex 1 lb of boost gets a 1 lb increase in fuel press, a FMU is connected inline in the return line and it increases fuel at a set rate, 5 to 1 or so, so as boost increases the added fuel pressure will enrich the misure for the boost
Grant
 
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