AC 134 conversion cost

williamsGN

williamsGN

'Horse sneeze' addict
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Took my car to the shop to get an estimate on converting the system since the compressor is shot. First guy guestimated 900-1000 for compressor, drier, expansion valve, conversion kit/o rings, and flush and 134. He had the car but hadn't checked prices. Second guy I told him it was an 87 GN, just talked to him on the phone, and he said 450-550 with the same parts. What are people paying out there for these conversions ?

Thanks
 
williamsGN said:
Took my car to the shop to get an estimate on converting the system since the compressor is shot. First guy guestimated 900-1000 for compressor, drier, expansion valve, conversion kit/o rings, and flush and 134. He had the car but hadn't checked prices. Second guy I told him it was an 87 GN, just talked to him on the phone, and he said 450-550 with the same parts. What are people paying out there for these conversions ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
i paid 100 bucks with labor....didnt need a new compressor
 
williamsGN said:
Took my car to the shop to get an estimate on converting the system since the compressor is shot. First guy guestimated 900-1000 for compressor, drier, expansion valve, conversion kit/o rings, and flush and 134. He had the car but hadn't checked prices. Second guy I told him it was an 87 GN, just talked to him on the phone, and he said 450-550 with the same parts. What are people paying out there for these conversions ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

If your compressor is shot.....thats going to cost the most amount of money.


To do it correctly, everything needs to be replaced. If everything still works for the most part, but your system needs to be recharged like mine does, then it should cheap to do. Depends on the mechanic and the availability of parts. See exactly what it needs and try to supply some of the parts yourself if you get any deals by other people.
 
Let's just assume that your AC system works. You didn't say. If it works, all you have to do is buy the fitting and hose to install about 3 cans of 134A and you're done.

Read back again. I see you need a compressor. Replace the compressor, buy a new drier, replace the orifice tube, then do what I said.
 
I did the same thing Red Regal T did, when I converted mine to R134 A, I bought the conversion kit with fittings and added about 3 cans of 134 A, it's still working fine 5 yrs. later.
 
williamsGN said:
Took my car to the shop to get an estimate on converting the system since the compressor is shot. First guy guestimated 900-1000 for compressor, drier, expansion valve, conversion kit/o rings, and flush and 134. He had the car but hadn't checked prices. Second guy I told him it was an 87 GN, just talked to him on the phone, and he said 450-550 with the same parts. What are people paying out there for these conversions ?

Thanks
Click to expand...


Did you tell the first guy that it was a GN? Sounds like he's trying to capitalize on an unknowing consumer. This is just a common GM a/c setup as far as servicing and the hard parts go. The second guy is closer to reasonable counting labor. That's only about $300 worth of parts, including the 134 and the conversion kit. The r&r can easily be done at home if you are the least bit mechanically inclined but you will need to have the system vacuumed down to remove moisture and check for leaks before charging it up. That can be done with an electric pump that can be purchased for around $60-$90, or you can take it to a shop to get it done. I did all the labor and supplied the 134 and the shop owner only charged $10 to pump mine down and recharge it. I did know the owner so he may have given me a break but I imagine they would not charge too much just to do that because of the minimal labor involved.
 
Hi,
Since your compressor took a crap,flushing the system is required,which can be hard to do. All that debris ends up in ,primarily, the condenser. As most condensers are multiple pass setups, I would just replace it. They are not that expensive.
134a is reasonably cheap, and works well with R4 compressors.I wouldn't go nuts with system efficiency;if you get it right, it will work ok.
Finally, I would say that cold air is one of those things that you learn to love in places like Texas, where I hang my hat.Good luck with your AC rebuild!
Dale
 
OK William, if your compressor took a dump then you will need to replace the compressor, oriface tube, (replace with a ford blue one, neet trick to give you a 10 degree extra drop), Clean the condensor and lines at the very least, Use wlly wordls carb cleaner, it's cheap, or buy the correct cleaner from napa, and Accumulator. The accumulator is the VERY LAST thing you install before sucking the system down. It needs to be under vacuam for at least 1 hr but the longer you suck it down the better off you are. Make sure you put 4 oz in the compressor and rotate it after ward. the condensor gets at ltast the same amount and 2 oz to accumulator. If you're wondering I do this for a living.:biggrin:
 
When I had my 84 Regal I spent $130 to get it converted. Then I later learned $130 buys you a half done job. Closer to $1000 was what I was quoted, if you want it done right.
 
williamsGN said:
Took my car to the shop to get an estimate on converting the system since the compressor is shot. First guy guestimated 900-1000 for compressor, drier, expansion valve, conversion kit/o rings, and flush and 134. He had the car but hadn't checked prices. Second guy I told him it was an 87 GN, just talked to him on the phone, and he said 450-550 with the same parts. What are people paying out there for these conversions ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

First, remember you get what you pay for, or at least you should?:confused:

If your $1000 quote includes a new Delco compressor, that is a fair price. For half that I would "assume" it is a reman POS that would not last a season here in the desert.

What warranty is with each quote? What is the rep of each shop?

Would also "assume" that R-12 is not available in your area? We do not convert 20+ year old vehicles here in the desert to 134A as it does not cool well at 100 degrees and higher temps.:eek:
 
ditto

turbojd said:
I did the same thing Red Regal T did, when I converted mine to R134 A, I bought the conversion kit with fittings and added about 3 cans of 134 A, it's still working fine 5 yrs. later.
Click to expand...


I just did this tonight, about $40. I got the car in Feb, the compressor is not orig. and says r12 & r134a compatible. We'll see how long it lasts, I'd settle for 1 summer but 5 years is awesome. I'd rather save a little $$ on this stuff and spend more on the "go fast" stuff.:biggrin:
 
charlief1 said:
OK William, if your compressor took a dump then you will need to replace the compressor, oriface tube, (replace with a ford blue one, neet trick to give you a 10 degree extra drop), Clean the condensor and lines at the very least, Use wlly wordls carb cleaner, it's cheap, or buy the correct cleaner from napa, and Accumulator. The accumulator is the VERY LAST thing you install before sucking the system down. It needs to be under vacuam for at least 1 hr but the longer you suck it down the better off you are. Make sure you put 4 oz in the compressor and rotate it after ward. the condensor gets at ltast the same amount and 2 oz to accumulator. If you're wondering I do this for a living.:biggrin:
Click to expand...


Could you give me the part number for the ford blue orifice ?

We're up to nearly 1200 on the original quote, with the compressor being a new four seasons 'made' for 134. Waiting to hear back from the second shop.

Anyone use gbodyparts conversion kit ? What brand is the compressor and is it new/rebuilt ?
 
Assuming the system had been vacuumed and was totally empty.Typically how many ounces of R134A would an 87 GN take to charge fully?
 
My compressor leaked,so I have a new compressor,reciever dryer,and orifice tube filter.How much approximately would it cost to vacuum,and recharge the system on my 87GN ?,If I took it to a shop.I know all shops have different rates.Just trying to get a ballpark figure.Thanks Dave
 
The difference between the factory GM tube and the ford are minimal. The 95 up mustang uses either a red or blue tube. GM used a .062 dia. hole, Ford used a .065 hole for the red and .067 for the blue. The real diff is the fact that ford used two holes to take advantage of the presure drop from liquid to gas. The faster the change of state occurs the higher the rate of colling. The other thing you need to think about is the oil. PAG 100 to 120 is the way to go. DON'T USE FREEZE 12 WHATEVER YOU DO!:eek: It's a blend and doesn't distribute the oil through out the system properly. As far as the condensor the older ones cna be back flushed well enough but if you have any doubts replace it. The cost of repair is to high not to spend a few bucks to keep the system working.
 
And as far as charging the system, Take the R12 charge and mutiply by .8 and .85 to get an average charge.
 
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