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AC warms slightly at stops

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dpok69

Dpok69@aol.com
Joined
Sep 8, 2001
Messages
314
My AC starts to warm up at lights and stops. On the highway it gets cold, but as soon as i start slowing down it gets warm.

I just had my AC recharged. It previously had air in the sytem and would only blow hot air so he evacuated the system. I think our systems take in 3 pounds. He only used one green bottle. Im thinking maybe he did not put enough. Also the bottle said R-12 refrigerant alternative.

I think i got screwed. My options are maybe to have the guy put more refrigerant or bring the car to a real shop that has real r-12 and modern AC refrigerant service tools(like Snap-On brand device) instead of just guages . If i go with the second choice im out a 100$ instantly cause its getting redone now by another shop now. Im so mad:mad: !

Can it be any other problem. i know my fathers '87 olds cutlass cierra has much colder AC. Also is it radiator related? My cars rad is partially clogged but my temps are usually in the 190-205 range in a 85+ day with AC on.
 
Mine does the same thing but I figured it was normal..? I have never had a car w/ AC before until I got this car..

I'd like to know also..

ks:confused:
 
Most ACs i think do get less cooler , but not warmer. I noticed if i was just idling with my AC my car actually starts losing its cooling.

My father olds and my old eclipse '90 both shoot out ice cold air. And when its at lights, yeah there is a decrease in cooling, but the car is still cold. Also, in both of these cars had new radiators in them.

I know people say r-12 is colder than 134-a, but i remeber the turbo eclipse being the coldest car i ever been in.
 
Originally posted by dpok69
Most ACs i think do get less cooler , but not warmer. I noticed if i was just idling with my AC my car actually starts losing its cooling.

Mine too.. It takes about 4 blocks before it starts getting cold again then it gets very cold.

ks
 
I have the same problem, so sometimes, I just raise the idle with my foot, and it stays cold.
 
You can solve this problem by installing a variable orifice tube. It allows more freon to circulate when the car is at a lower RPM. Of course you'll lose your refridgerant when you change the orifice tube. I use 134A and can buy it for $4 a can so not a problem.
 
If you want to keep the A/C cool at stop and go traffic. Put in a manual fan switch to keep the air flowing constantly through the front coil and it will help it stay cool.
 
I think the fans are always on with the ac on. I also noticed the blower fan slows down, and voltage drops, maybe connected somehow.
 
Has anyone stopped to find out if the compressor is still running while this happens?....it is natural that the cooling will decrease if the coolant temperature rises as the condensor will not be removing as much heat but simply stopping at a light for a minute should not make a noticiable difference.

I have not had much obvious improvement from the variable orifice. It costs $25 instead of $2 but I have not really noticed an improvement that I could say made it worth it. :)
 
Yes, the clutch was still engaged( when I got out and checked anyway). Thanks for sharing the results on the variable orifice.
 
yeah this is normal

to an extent it is normal for the air conditioning system to warm up a bit when at idle and at an intersection.

Ya know that silly little radiator in front of your radiator? That is the part of the system that exchanges the heat from the ac system with the cool outside air. I can't remember if it is the condensor or evaporator.....

If you are not moving....the only airflow is from what is being pulled through it and the rad by your fan. When driving you get the added cooing of the air being pushed in through the grill.

In my opinion, the fan and shround setup that comes on these cars is in need of help. There is a large gap that runs all around the the fan where it meets the rad. It is much easier for the fan to pull air in BEHIND the rad from the sides than through it.

I took the weatherstripping from the engine compartment from another G-body and used that to make a seal between the fan and the rad.

Now the fan pulls all of its air 'through' the rad and things stay much cooler.
 
Hey Steve, thanks for the headsup on the variable orifice tube. Got my info from an "AC expert" when I replaced my AC compressor. I still cheaped out and bought the $2 item.

In spite of advice of the experts, I changed over to 134, didn't have the equipment to evacuate my system, used $2 orifice, installed three cans of 134 aaaaaannnnndddd my air blows cold. AMAZING!! :rolleyes:
 
idle

Is your car idling too low with the air on? If it gets cooler when you raise the idle couldn't you raise the idle 150-200rpm/that should help.
 
as the air across the condenser almost stops as you stop the car for a light, this is normal. The fun drawing air across it helps a lil but its not the same as when you are moving at 45 mph. And Im saying that the ac will warm a few degrees tops.. Any more and you may have problems.
 
Mine did the same but progressively got worse. After awile it quite working all together. I recharged the system but that didnt help so i changed the AC switch. That worked for awhile then started doing it agian. Any suggestions? Plus the new swich they gave me was a little bigger than the one that was on the car. Could that be it, the switch was wrong?
 
Don't we need to get a new chip burned to raise the idle? I thought the chip controls the idle.
 
Correct.. He's suggesting pressing on the accelerator a little while stopped..

ks:cool:
 
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