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Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

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Oh ok, I see, the boost automatically causes it to push more fuel pressure when it needs it?

So when I get my new part I need to set it for 45 PSI right? As I am running 15 PSI of boost right now.

Thanks for helping me understand.

38 to 45 depending on the way your engine is running and whet chip you have. say you have eric tt chip then you can start at 43 and work from there. at your boost level i wouldnt worry about it. if you have a non adjustable chip then you can lower a pound or 3 if your car is spooling up slow or running rich or if you are running lean at top end
 
Make sure you have some kind of scan tool before you go taking you car out at WOT and adjusting fuel pressure. Hate to see people blow their stuff up from not knowing how to "tune" correctly. You can't just throw on a fp reg and crank the fp up and expect it to go faster.
By having a scan tool you'll be able to see what the idle and cruise BLMs are and that will tell you if you need more or less base fp. Once the BLms are stablized and close to 128 +-10 then you can go on to WOT tuning watching for knock and what O2 mv are reading...then the fp adj is done with the TT chip, not the fp reg.
 
Make sure you have some kind of scan tool before you go taking you car out at WOT and adjusting fuel pressure. Hate to see people blow their stuff up from not knowing how to "tune" correctly. You can't just throw on a fp reg and crank the fp up and expect it to go faster.
By having a scan tool you'll be able to see what the idle and cruise BLMs are and that will tell you if you need more or less base fp. Once the BLms are stablized and close to 128 +-10 then you can go on to WOT tuning watching for knock and what O2 mv are reading...then the fp adj is done with the TT chip, not the fp reg.

yes scantool is a must
 
Make sure you have some kind of scan tool before you go taking you car out at WOT and adjusting fuel pressure. Hate to see people blow their stuff up from not knowing how to "tune" correctly. You can't just throw on a fp reg and crank the fp up and expect it to go faster.
By having a scan tool you'll be able to see what the idle and cruise BLMs are and that will tell you if you need more or less base fp. Once the BLms are stablized and close to 128 +-10 then you can go on to WOT tuning watching for knock and what O2 mv are reading...then the fp adj is done with the TT chip, not the fp reg.

Yup, got me a Scanmaster.

But I also happen to still have the stock non adjustable pressure regulator, and my engine was upgraded with a chip and 36 lb/hr blue top injectors.

I'm getting some KR according to my Scanmaster and my knock gauge.

I also just ordered a hot wire kit too.

I figured I'd try and see if these two help at all.

I plan on seeing how much psi the regular is putting out before I remove it.
 
Yup, got me a Scanmaster.

But I also happen to still have the stock non adjustable pressure regulator, and my engine was upgraded with a chip and 36 lb/hr blue top injectors.

I'm getting some KR according to my Scanmaster and my knock gauge.

I also just ordered a hot wire kit too.

I figured I'd try and see if these two help at all.

I plan on seeing how much psi the regular is putting out before I remove it.

a hotwire is a must also what fuel pump do you have? and did you do the basic spring cleaning? get the billit regulator from full throttle
 
Yup, got me a Scanmaster.

But I also happen to still have the stock non adjustable pressure regulator, and my engine was upgraded with a chip and 36 lb/hr blue top injectors.

I'm getting some KR according to my Scanmaster and my knock gauge.

I also just ordered a hot wire kit too.

I figured I'd try and see if these two help at all.

I plan on seeing how much psi the regular is putting out before I remove it.
Good deal!
Now what numbers for O2s are you seeing when getting the knock and at what boost levels?
HW kit is a must too, but may not be the cause for your knock if not tuned properly still.
What are your cruise and idle BLMs?
Just remember if you adj fp, then it effects fueling everywhere, not just WOT. Since the TT chip has adj fueling at WOT, you'll want to use the fp reg to adjust your idle and cruise BLMs as mentioned earlier, then use the adjustments in the chip to add or reduce fuel at WOT.

Once you get the adj reg, set the fp to 43psi with the vac line off....once set, then reconnect the vac line and take it for a spin, watching knock and what boost psi and if possible the O2 readings and report back the #s.
Accufab all the way for the adj reg. Ran one for 17 years without a single prob.

The stock narrowband O2 is not the best to tune by, but we all have done it before, so as a rule of thumb I try to shoot for WOT (or in boost) O2 mv of around .800mv to start with and if no knock at the boost you want to run, then reduce WOT fueling to bring down the O2 mv to around .790mv. I wouldn't want to run any leaner than .790mv on pump gas.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.
 
02's range all over the map, but I don't think I've seen them go any higher than 800.

BLM is default 128 at idle, have to check at cruise.

Boost levels vary for knock. Today it seemed at 12 psi I was getting 1.something on the Scanmaster, but I've seen it get as high as 3 and 4.

When the 1. something popped up the knock gauge was on the 2nd yellow I think.

I even managed to get into the 2nd green with I think a .7

Then other times the kr doesn't kick in until I'm really beating on it.

Spring cleaning has been complied with.

As for the "billet fp", I got the black $119 one from Full Throttle Speed. I did not get the silver $99 one so I hope this is not bad.
 
02's range all over the map, but I don't think I've seen them go any higher than 800.

BLM is default 128 at idle, have to check at cruise.

Boost levels vary for knock. Today it seemed at 12 psi I was getting 1.something on the Scanmaster, but I've seen it get as high as 3 and 4.

When the 1. something popped up the knock gauge was on the 2nd yellow I think.

I even managed to get into the 2nd green with I think a .7

Then other times the kr doesn't kick in until I'm really beating on it.

Spring cleaning has been complied with.

As for the "billet fp", I got the black $119 one from Full Throttle Speed. I did not get the silver $99 one so I hope this is not bad.
get the hotwire on and get a pressure gauge. what fuel pump do you have
 
The O2s will be bouncing all over until you get into the boost good then they should start stabilizing some..may be hard to see on SM, but with a laptop that graphs you can see that happen easily...it is at that time you want to see that they do not fall below the .790 - .800mv mark...sounds like they are so you are lean.
IF the Idle is 128 and it is in CLOSED loop, then thats perfect...if its idling in OPEN loop (not using the O2 to control fueling) then its only a guess and the cruise numbers will be more telling. I don't remember if TT chips have an OPEN loop idle option???

As said above, get the HW kit on there and see if that affects your WOT O2s...get them up where they need to be, then start to worry about curing the knock...but don't continue to hammer on it till then. The knock guage can be very sensitive...which is a good thing :) You really do not want to see anything more than a degree on a regular basis.
 
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