Aeromotive 1000 pump for street use
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boostingbuick
Going to be buried in this.
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- Aug 25, 2002
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- 1,548
Aeromotive products are top notch. I have ran one for years on my old street car. Never had a issue. And I have a new one for my car now, just waiting for my new turbo to get here.
nordy racer
Active Member
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- Aug 2, 2004
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i'm running the Aeromotive A1000 for the past 3 years on my race / street car.. they have AMAZING customer service.. they replaced my motor with a updated 07 one, and replaced every seal and flowed tested it for $110, and they even talked me out of stepping up to the A1002.. It's running better then ever..
>>> I agree.....GREAT customer service, this past year they rebuilt my Pro Series pump and turnaround was great and price was exactly what they quoted.
I ran the A1000 on my GN for years and would drive it to Atco (about 30 miles each way I guess) and never had any problems with it.
Best of luck.
Run a Stainless mesh pre-pump, and a paper element post-pump. Brian
Under Pressure
New Member
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- Feb 8, 2004
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- 635
WE HAVE 3 CARS THAT HAVE A1000 ON THEM AND ARE DRIVEN LOT'S OVER THE SUMMER NEVER NEEDED OR USED A CONTROLLER .WE USE 1 MICRO FILTER BEFORE THE PUMPS. GOOD LUCK BRO
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 2,896
Well, hate to be the spoiled sport here, but a word of caution for those who want to run this pump and high boost/fuel pressures. This pump will work fine up to about 65psi. After 65psi, this pump will start too loose it's flow capability. I ran the old Paxton blue pump and had friends who ran the A1000 and we all discovered the hard way once we started cranking the boost and fuel pressures. I almost blew my production motor up running this pump and couldn't figure out why I was running out of fuel up top and why my fuel pressure would drop below what it was supposed to be toward the end of a run. Where my fuel pressures were supposed to be a rock steady 76psi (48#s of fp and 28psi of boost) my actual fp was dropping to around 65-64 at the end of a run and the car would detonate and pop even with C16. If you are building a 600+ hp street strip car, you will need a larger external pump. Eventhough they claim this pump can support up to 1100 hp on a forced induction fuel injection application, this would be at much lower fuel pressures than we typically run on the turbo V6. Here is their flow chart for this pump from their website.
At the typical fuel pressures that a 600+hp Turbo Buick will run, this pump will support around 580 lbs per hour at 13.5v. This is roughly similar to what an older Bosch external pump can support. The fuel pressures I'm talking about are 70-78psi under WOT. 42#s of fuel pressure plus 30 psi of boost = 72#s of fuel pressure. 46#s of fuel pressure plus 32psi of boost = 78psi of fuel pressure. This is typical for a serious Turbo V6 application.
In my opinion, the A1000 pump will work fine on street applications where hp is under 600, but if you are planning on building a motor to support more than 600hp, and are going to run an external pump, there is only one choice.
Weldon DB2015a.
// WELDON RACING PUMPS // Viewing product: DB2015-A (-12 inlet and -10 outlet)
Now, this pump will support 100 "Gallons per hour" at 80psi, which is enough to support 800 fwhp easily on a fuel injected and forced inducted application. If looking to make more than 1000 fwhp, then you go to one of the larger Weldons. 2025a, 2035a etc, etc. You do not have to run the pump controller with the DB2015a as it is rated for continuous duty. It won't hurt to run one, but it's not mandatory. I ran this pump on my gray car for 6 years without any problem. No matter whose pump you run, it will be necessary to change the pre and post filter elements religiously. I always changed my elements after about 25 passes. It has a -12 An inlet and -10 An outlet. I ran a dedicated -10 An feed from a sumped stock tank in and out of the factory modified fuel rail, -10 An out of the fuel rail over to an external EFI regulator, -8 return line out of the regulator back to the top of the stock tank. I have had friends run this same pump with a -10 feed and using the factory feedline as the new return line and the factory adjustable regulator worked fine. But you will need to run a piece of hose from the factory feedline up to the bottom of the regulator, and you will need to modify the factory fuel tank hanger. Basically remove the pump pieces and make sure the feed line is hooked up to the largest port on the hanger and that nothing will interfere with the fuel being returned. No matter how you do it, make sure you run at least a 40 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron filter after the pump. The post filter is not mandatory if you always filter your fuel when you pour it in. The Weldon may be pricier, but would you want to run the risk of running lean at high boost levels on your very expensive killer 109 engine, or for that matter a stage motor? Not me.
Hope some of this helps.
Patrick
At the typical fuel pressures that a 600+hp Turbo Buick will run, this pump will support around 580 lbs per hour at 13.5v. This is roughly similar to what an older Bosch external pump can support. The fuel pressures I'm talking about are 70-78psi under WOT. 42#s of fuel pressure plus 30 psi of boost = 72#s of fuel pressure. 46#s of fuel pressure plus 32psi of boost = 78psi of fuel pressure. This is typical for a serious Turbo V6 application.
In my opinion, the A1000 pump will work fine on street applications where hp is under 600, but if you are planning on building a motor to support more than 600hp, and are going to run an external pump, there is only one choice.
Weldon DB2015a.
// WELDON RACING PUMPS // Viewing product: DB2015-A (-12 inlet and -10 outlet)
Now, this pump will support 100 "Gallons per hour" at 80psi, which is enough to support 800 fwhp easily on a fuel injected and forced inducted application. If looking to make more than 1000 fwhp, then you go to one of the larger Weldons. 2025a, 2035a etc, etc. You do not have to run the pump controller with the DB2015a as it is rated for continuous duty. It won't hurt to run one, but it's not mandatory. I ran this pump on my gray car for 6 years without any problem. No matter whose pump you run, it will be necessary to change the pre and post filter elements religiously. I always changed my elements after about 25 passes. It has a -12 An inlet and -10 An outlet. I ran a dedicated -10 An feed from a sumped stock tank in and out of the factory modified fuel rail, -10 An out of the fuel rail over to an external EFI regulator, -8 return line out of the regulator back to the top of the stock tank. I have had friends run this same pump with a -10 feed and using the factory feedline as the new return line and the factory adjustable regulator worked fine. But you will need to run a piece of hose from the factory feedline up to the bottom of the regulator, and you will need to modify the factory fuel tank hanger. Basically remove the pump pieces and make sure the feed line is hooked up to the largest port on the hanger and that nothing will interfere with the fuel being returned. No matter how you do it, make sure you run at least a 40 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron filter after the pump. The post filter is not mandatory if you always filter your fuel when you pour it in. The Weldon may be pricier, but would you want to run the risk of running lean at high boost levels on your very expensive killer 109 engine, or for that matter a stage motor? Not me.
Hope some of this helps.
Patrick
I've run into the same situation Patrick mentioned at 27-28psi of boost on 10.50 passes(hp calc says a little over 700hp at the crank which is on par with aeromotive specs at 78psi fuel pressure). Seems the higher the fuel pressure, the lower the power capabilities of this pump - still a good pump in my opinion just has limitations at higher pressures.
Steve
Steve
