After car heats up, it runs bad and stalls??

tpabayflyer

New Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2001
After running on the highway for about 30 minutes, my 87 GN will start to make a funky whiney noise from the engine. It will get progressively louder for about 10 seconds then the car starts to run rough, buck, like it is running out of fuel. It will backfire and it has actually stalled. After waiting a few minutes, it will start right up as if nothing happened. It has done this every time I have driven the car lately and yesterday it did set a malfunction code 42 on the scanmaster.

It is pretty odd that right before the engine runs real rough, it starts to make this strange whine and shortly thereafter it does the " run crappy like it its out of gas routine" Has this happened to anyone???? On a side note, I am also getting a rythmic ticking sound that changes with rpm. It really sounds alot like a lifter but I am thinkin it could be the cam sensor as the sound seems to come from the front of the engine. Thanks in advance for any help
with this..... TBF
 
That same thing has happened to a few of us around here. Try unplugging the ignition module connector and packing it with di-electric grease.
 
Thanks ATL... I don't want to sound to stupid but where is the ignition module??? Is it the coil pack on the pack of the engine that the plug wires go into????? I will do a search and try and figure it out for myself..........
When I start to hear the noise I try and pull over to see where it is coming from but I never get the hood open in time....... Anybody else have this happen???? Thanks TBF
 
I just saw a diagram on the gnttype website and see that the module is on the pax side inner fender.... I will hit the junky today and get a few and get some die-electric grerase as well..... I'll report back later.... I have to change the TCC solenoid today..... TBF
 
ignition module is bolted under your coilpack, for the connector theres a bolt down the middle that holds it on

the thing on the fender is the ESC module and it is for knock , doubt youll find the correct one in a junk yard unless you find a turbo regal

the ticking could be your ignition wires arcing to ground ,
 
Thanks... the ticking is definately a mechanical tick and I bought a new tensioner pulley to see if that helps...... I pulled the cam sensor and it has quite a bit of up and down play and I am wondering if this may be causing the noise..... I also went to the junky and got 1 ignition module and a module/coil-pack combo and some die-electric grease so I will see what happens.... I priced a new cam sensor and they are $134..... I would like to try and shim mine and tighten up the slop and see what happens......... TBF
 
I have a similar problem, whine from front of engine/rough running and stalling.
Though it does not occur everytime I drive it, whine/roughness are always together.
I think it is the cam sensor too because what else could make the noise and cause stalling? I would like to know if cam sensor fixes it for you.
Thanks
PS: my engine has less than 50K, never opened up.........
 
if it runs fine cold and rough hot it sounds like something is expanding and causing the miss and rough idle could be a hairline crack in module, maf sensor or crack in cam sensor????????????????????????????????? doesnt hurt to check ohm it out cold then run them till it runs rough then ohm them hot and see if any change or just replace one at a time from a friends regal if can do.
 
replace the MAF with a "KNOWN WORKING UNIT" and see if this helps. I replaced everything on my car and it ran ok but it was the maf that was acting up...(tapping test did nothing to help)
 
Pull your serpentine belt off and make sure your harmonic balancer is tight. That bolt needs to be torqued to like 220 ft lbs. If that's loose, the dampener will walk out and the crank sensor will loose its signal. That will cause all kinds of havoc. :eek:
Been there, done that.
 
Code 42 indicates that the ECM is not seeing the correct signal from the module. My code 42 turned out to be a bad module & coil pack. The coil pack had a small crack by one of the towers and shorted the module. If a module is on its way out they can show problems when they are hot. Try to swap a known good module/coil pack to see if your problem and code go away.
 
XLR8 said:
Code 42 indicates that the ECM is not seeing the correct signal from the module. My code 42 turned out to be a bad module & coil pack. The coil pack had a small crack by one of the towers and shorted the module. If a module is on its way out they can show problems when they are hot. Try to swap a known good module/coil pack to see if your problem and code go away.
THATS WHAT I FIGURED SMALL CRACKS EXPAND WITH HEAT AND THATS WHY IT RAN LIKE CRAP WHEN WARMED UP COULD BE THE PROBLEM?????????????????
 
Ok, I understand a coil pack or maf can cause the car to run rough/stall/misfire etc. but how could they cause it to whine?
 
That is what really puzzles me..... I bought a new belt tensioner and will put that on today and see what happens. Trboboy has exactly the same problem I have... The rough running and whine only happen together and usually for a short time...... I wonder if the tensioner is possibly seizing up and making all that noise and ,maybe the knock sensor is picking it up pulling all the timing out???? I don't know.... I took my cam sensor to my machinist yesterday and he said he would NOT recommened shimming it. He said the wear pattern looks fine. I will report back after I change the tensioner and the coil pack/module combo..... I also just got razors alky kit and a new HD WG actuator and a alky chip from turbotweak so I am ready to get this thing rockin!!! I will be busy today on my day off!! TBF
 
tpabayflyer said:
That is what really puzzles me..... I bought a new belt tensioner and will put that on today and see what happens. Trboboy has exactly the same problem I have... The rough running and whine only happen together and usually for a short time...... I wonder if the tensioner is possibly seizing up and making all that noise and ,maybe the knock sensor is picking it up pulling all the timing out???? I don't know.... I took my cam sensor to my machinist yesterday and he said he would NOT recommened shimming it. He said the wear pattern looks fine. I will report back after I change the tensioner and the coil pack/module combo..... I also just got razors alky kit and a new HD WG actuator and a alky chip from turbotweak so I am ready to get this thing rockin!!! I will be busy today on my day off!! TBF

I would of never pulled the cam sensor. Now you have the neat job of setting it correctly.

That coil pack IGN module you pulled, better make sure its the correct one. Some are different. The only ones I trust are the cars that also have the 7148 ecm.

Bad chip connections will also cuase your code 42. make sure the socket is clean where the chip seats in the ecm.
 
Shimming the cam sensor would not affect the wear pattern of the drive gear. Sounds like missed communication between flyer and his machinist. The shims will take out excessive axial movement- they won't change the engagement of the drive gears. Looking at the wear pattern is not the way to determine the need for the shims. But this problem doesn't sound like it's related to the cam sensor.
 
The "Rick James Beeotch" Turbotimmer is the man!!!! Crank bolt was only finger tight and crank pulley was loose big time....... I am off to the auto parts store to get a big socket and smoke that baby back on....... I think I will get a new crank sensor because It may have some damage to it from the excessive play.............. I already replaced it once right after I replaced my timing chain/HV oil pump so I think I will get some threadlocker on it this time.
I will report back back later with an update........ TBF
 
I buttoned everything up and its ops normal!!!!! the ticking noise is gone and the car sounds normal again!!!!! Thanks for the help to everyone on the board. Now its time to get drunk and install the ALKY!!!! TBF
 
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