Ahhh...car won't start

chico

will race for food
Joined
Oct 28, 2001
So this weekend my Crank Sensor pooped on me (2nd time in 8 months). I replaced it and the car won't start. The 1st time it went out my mechanic changed it for me for an arm & leg. I replaced it this time and the car just cranks over and battery drains out.
I tried jumping the battery but that didn't work. I'm taking the battery to Autozone for check up 1st thing in the morning. Should I pick up anything else? There is fuel and spark.
Ahh I am starting my new job tomorrow evening and this is my daily driver :eek: .


Any help is much appreciated.
 
There are 2 slots on the crank sensor, and it will only run if in the correct one. I would switch slots 1st and then go from there.
 
If the sensor isnt working how is he getting any spark at all? Or doesnt the ECM fire the injectors without crank sensor input?
 
I have no idea why it would spark. I had some other GN guys show up they couln't figure it out and noticed a broken crank sensor. I'll try and change slots.
 
Well i did change slots but now the car won't crank over. it does clicking noise similar to a dead battery. Also it keeps blowing a fuse in the 'ECM SOL' slot. Any one know what this could mean?
 
This is a pretty good troubleshooting method from Jim Testa, it may help:


"OK, to diagnose ANY car, you need to find what you have and dont have. The way *I* usually go about it (which might not be right to some people, but its methodical and consistant so I stick to it.

1) Note the check engine light (if EFI). If its not on, STOP and find out why. Listen to how it cranks. I can pick out compression problems doing this. If you are in tune to your car, you can too. Listen to the starter as each cyl comes up on compression stoke. You'll hear the starter slow down a little at that point. You bight hear deerdeerdeerdeer, where a dead cyl m ight sound like deerdeeeeedeerdeer (great sound effects huh?)

2)Depending how accessible the intake is, I'll shoot 3 or 4 seconds of carb cleaner into the plenum. Either thru the throttle body, or the brake booster vacuum port. If its a lack of fuel problem, the car may start, it may simply kick. If it does either, its time to look to fuel system (usually, although enrighening can bring out a low sec output problem too, so dont take my suggestion of fuel as law)

3) If the car kicked, I'll put a FP gauge on it. If fuel pressure isnt in spec, now you need to see why. Fuel pump, filter, resticted line, bad reg, low batt voltage, bad relay, blown fuse etc. If FP is in spec, its time to hook up a noid light and verify our injectors are getting pulsed. If youre not getting a pulse you will want to hook up a scanner and look for RPM during crank. If you are getting RPM signal, check for spark. If you're getting spark and no fuel, although there is a commanded PW (see below) you probably have a bad ECM. How fast it cranks isnt as important as the fact you get a RPM signal. Next you'll look at Coolant temp to see if it coincides with ambient )if the car is cold), and verify TPS isnt shorted to Vref which will put the car in clear flood and cut off fuel. If these all look OK, you'll want to take a look at commanded PW.

3) If the car didnt kick, I'll yank a plug wire and see if I got spark. If I got no spark, then I'll check also for inj pulse using a noid light. If I have neither its usually due to a dead crank sensor. If I have no spark, but I have injector pulse, its usually a module.
Typically:
No start - no spark, has inj pulse -> Module
No start - has spark no inj pulse -> ECM / cam sensor prob
No start - no spark OR inj pulse - crank sensor or module

Oh, and if the module is dead, I suggest putting a coil pack on it as well as most of the module failure are caused by an overheating or arcing coil.

See, its pretty cut and dry when you go back to basics of what the car needs. Air, fuel, spark, and compression. If any are missing, the car wont run. The hard part I guess is finding out what you DONT have, then finding out why. I guess I take my experience for granted, maybe it is difficult. Kinda like Me trying to learn or diagnose a Linux problem (Right Jeremy?)
 
Originally posted by chico
Well i did change slots but now the car won't crank over. it does clicking noise similar to a dead battery. Also it keeps blowing a fuse in the 'ECM SOL' slot. Any one know what this could mean?
A pinched wire or short circuit somewhere. That fuse powers the TCC solenoid (through the brake pedal switch), the wastegate solenoid, the coolant fan delay relay, canister purge solenoid, EVRV & A/C cutout relay.
 
Ohh my god,
You guys are great. This board deserves some kind of award for member participation. At this point I am stuck between a rock and hard place. I will have to get back with all of you this weekend (maybe sooner) . But I will keep you posted.

Thank you ALL so very much. :)
 
Arm and a leg, huh?

What a burn, man! Of all the items I have replaced on my GN, the crank sensor had to be one of the LEAST labor intensive jobs. I mean, you can get to it without taking ANYTHING off, and requires no special tools. The part itself is inexpensive, especially if you get just the sensor and not the whole bracket assembly. I hate hearing of or getting ripped off like this. Just because "Crankshaft Sensor" sounds expensive does not make it so! AND if failed 8 months later, the "Mechanic" you went to didn't even do it right! Man, its enough to make you just do it yourself...

One way to check for spark without even taking the wire off is to get a timing light... Just crank the engine while pulling the trigger to see if it flashes. Just make sure that old crappy timing light really works if you don't get any flashing! Using the light makes it pretty quick to check each cyl. if needed.

If you cranked the engine over enough to discharge the battery, you may have cooked the starter motor. Do you think this could be related to the fuses blowing? Does the ECM/SOL circuit get its power from the starter terminal? Just trying to to tie all these events together... 9 times out of 10 there is a common link. I don't really know.
:(

BUT:

If your crank sensor is really dead, you WILL NOT HAVE SPARK. I suppose it is possible the sensor was marginal or way out of alignment, producing an inconsistent or random spark. But with fueses starting to pop, something else is going on as well.

MEANBUICKS: Unless the fuses were poping before this happened, there should be some event here that ties all this together. Do you know if the ECM/SOL circuit gets power from the starter terminal/cable? Could this fuse pop due to a bad starter shorting out? Will the car start without this fuse?

I may just pull that fuse tomorrow as see! The items you have listed don't appear to control anything that critical to starting (Running for extened lengths is another story!) I must admit I dont know what the EV/RV stands for though.
 
Hey everyone,
Just posting my update.

Yesterday I found out that the result of engine stalling was my front pump in the trans goin out. Thus causing my engine to lock up. Basically needing a new engine. Now my trans was under warrantee and I had gone to my mechanic's shop 1 week before this mess happened but I was told to come back some other time. This transmission had roughly 400-500 miles on it. It was my new transmission after 6 rebuilds in 6 months by what I thought a very reputable GN shop in the Dallas/Richardson area.

What should I do? Any suggestions?
 
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