Those are some damn good short times you got there, you must be doing something right!
Thank you, but to be honest its driving me insane! I'm getting down right respectable short times with relatively low boost launches. I cant seam to get my brakes to hold for crap. If I get 8 psi or a little more I yank the front wheels and go very low 1.5's to mid 1.4's. I almost never seam to have a problem spinning and want to try launches in the 12 to 20 pound range. I dont want to run a transbreak so I HAVE to get this brake crap figured out.
What tires do you run at the track?
I run M/T 28x9 ET drags. My father hangs out at local speed shop all the time. They researched M/T slicks and supposedly the 9" wide slicks are a softer compound than the 10" and up ones. They fit very nicely and are only really 27.1" tall so your gearing isnt messed up to bad. They only require a very short burn out. I run them around 14 psi any lower doesnt seam to make them hook better (does good already) and they arent near as squirly. At lower pressures the car feals weird at the start and shutdown.
How much of a PITA was it to put that 9" rear in?
Getting the control arm bolts to break loose was the hard part. This is what I did:
1. ordered 9" housing from Mosier w/ 31 spine axles, axle bearings pressed on, long wheel studs (you can get metric ones so stock lugs will work). I also ordered it with Ford ends so I could run Ford drum brakes (F150). Now since I ordered it with Ford ends they knocked like $80 off of the advertized price. So all that shipped to my door was right around $800
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2. bought 3.25 geared center section with a Detroit locker in it for $250 (31 spline center) from bone yard.
3. Bought drum brake set up off late 70's F150 from same bone yard for like $100
4. Got new wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware/spring kit for like $60 from auto parts store.
5. got metric to -AN adapters to screw into the "T" fitting where the brke line "T's" by the axle to go to the rear wheels. Got pipe thread to -AN fittings to screw into each wheel cylinder and got a peice of braded brake line to run from "T" to each wheel cylinder. I got those parts from speed shop for like $50 to $70.
It wasnt too bad because when I did it I figured I had around $1300 in the set up and was almost done. I then sold my stock rear for $300 so I probably only got a little over $1000 in the set up. If you call Mosier up they get around $400 just for these big heavy duty axles. Axles, bearings, bearings pressed on, big NHRA approved studs, axle seals, torque arm adapter and custom bolt in housing. $800 or so to your door seams down right reasonable. Alot of you guys have nice TTA's (mines a pig) and are trying to launch hard. Ever see what happens to a car when they break a c-clip stye axle? The damage done to the car can easily go into the 2k range.
Other than getting the control arms out I only had two hassels:
1. The round flange like part of the axle end that slides into the wheels was little bigger than the hole in the center of the wheels. I had to die ground it out a bit so I could bolt my wheels on properly.
2. My after market torque arm. I got this thing new off of Ebay. It has a big "E" on it so I'm guessing its an Edlebrock unit or an Energy suspension unit. It fit on to my stock rear ok but wouldnt fit on to the bulky torque arm adapter that comes with the mosier 9". My stock T- arm would fit on either unit. It had to do with where the torque arm braket is bent to make a "C" shape. The stock T-arm had a deeper "C" shape. The after market T-arm had a shallower "C" shape. When you would try to slide the "C" shape part of the T-arm over the adapter it would hit in the center of the "C" because of a reinforcing type rib on the adapter. The blot holes wouldn't line up so you couldnt drop the 2 long t-arm bolts through. I had to cut a strip out of the "C" to clear that and weld a new peice on the back side of the "C". The thinkness of the old metal cut out was enough to clear. It sound goofy but it wasn't a big deal.
HTH: Jason
just need my tranny to get freshened.. again 
