Alky datalog shots and results
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Now look
Now check this out. Changes made was the addition of an M10 nozzle and pressure transducer kit. We start at 140 degree's and down to 80. The trick was the second nozzle was installed upstream of the first one.
This was at Reynolds car ran 136 MPH on this pass.
The yellow squigly line is alky pressure. Gray line is temperature. Blue line is boost. Violet is TPS. You can see the alky pressure track with the boost on the 4 second mark.
Only at 100 PSI on twins.. time to throw some boost at this sucker
Now check this out. Changes made was the addition of an M10 nozzle and pressure transducer kit. We start at 140 degree's and down to 80. The trick was the second nozzle was installed upstream of the first one.
This was at Reynolds car ran 136 MPH on this pass.
The yellow squigly line is alky pressure. Gray line is temperature. Blue line is boost. Violet is TPS. You can see the alky pressure track with the boost on the 4 second mark.
Only at 100 PSI on twins.. time to throw some boost at this sucker
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Cablebandit
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- Jul 5, 2004
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I ran meth that day as well at SDR
I think i am running a m15 with an additional m12 or m10
temp was 66 degrees...IAT started at 82....was at 77 at the end of the pass.
14 psi..9.29 @ 150
I have an el cheapo ebay intercooler. With these kind of results, a/w is not worth the trouble for a test and tuner like myself and its always there on the street as well.
Julio I was running 100% meth as well
I think i am running a m15 with an additional m12 or m10
temp was 66 degrees...IAT started at 82....was at 77 at the end of the pass.
14 psi..9.29 @ 150
I have an el cheapo ebay intercooler. With these kind of results, a/w is not worth the trouble for a test and tuner like myself and its always there on the street as well.
Julio I was running 100% meth as well
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- Aug 1, 2003
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heres a shot at 24psi dual nozzle razor spraying meth
this is the run my #3 piston cracked and finally made a hole for air ...still went 10.5
inlet was at 101 at early part of run and once alky came in stronger dropped and stayed at low 60s under high boost (60.4 degrees at 22.5 sec mark )
the little blip in tps is at the release of tbrake at 12psi .the alky comes in hard once tbrake is release
this is the run my #3 piston cracked and finally made a hole for air ...still went 10.5
inlet was at 101 at early part of run and once alky came in stronger dropped and stayed at low 60s under high boost (60.4 degrees at 22.5 sec mark )
the little blip in tps is at the release of tbrake at 12psi .the alky comes in hard once tbrake is release
Cablebandit
New Member
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- Jul 5, 2004
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alky ftw!!
Thanks guys.. we always get the "use water it cools better".. these logs are some proof.
My own car has a very small core, this is why the temps start out at 140.. just amazing.
Like on Pauls run the temps start out in the 80's.. and slam down 20 at 24-25 PSI. Just neat to let those on the fence look at raw data
My own car has a very small core, this is why the temps start out at 140.. just amazing.
Like on Pauls run the temps start out in the 80's.. and slam down 20 at 24-25 PSI. Just neat to let those on the fence look at raw data
julio, on a dual m15 setup what should we be seeing with the alky pressure with the new transducer setup? im guess with the data you posted right around 100psi should be good. i know it also depends on the setting on the box but what is an unsafe pressure. also im guessing with a single m15 we should always see the sensor maxed correct. whats a safe # on this before we need to be sending the pump in? i also have the tester so i can check pumps.
On my datalogs when I first installed the transducer on mine I was pinning the 150 on an M15. That pass without the log was an M15 at over 150 PSI.
So if your on a single and see it go to 150+ then the pump is healthy.
I had on this engine a 2 bar MAP and was at 15 PSI. The sensor was making the pump max out. I changed over to a 3 bar MAP and wanted to keep the same volume at less signal from the sensor and have room to grow. Kinda like 1 m15 at 150 PSI = M25(m10+m15) at 100 PSI. I havent done the math so please excuse me
One thing to look at is your not maxing out the kit. That way the pump can always deliver predictably. Meaning if the pump new can deliver 200 PSI on an M15 and 1 year latter its down to 180 PSI. It no longer at full boogie can deliver the amount.
Now if you tune the car at lets say 135 PSI pressure, and the pump went from 200 capability to 180 capability.. your still covered. The point is to not run the pump at maximum unless you have to. Like your car goes from 22 PSI to 30 PSI by accident. Then you want that headroom. That is why I dont like running the system at full potential. Hence why i'm at 100 PSI at 15 PSI on my own combo. That way if the motor goes to 20 PSI or greater there is system left.
A healthy pump and vehicle electrical on twin M15's should hit the 150 PSI mark.. not that it has too.. but that it can. Keep the headroom issue in mind.
I need to make some time and make some charts for flow.. :redface:
So if your on a single and see it go to 150+ then the pump is healthy.
I had on this engine a 2 bar MAP and was at 15 PSI. The sensor was making the pump max out. I changed over to a 3 bar MAP and wanted to keep the same volume at less signal from the sensor and have room to grow. Kinda like 1 m15 at 150 PSI = M25(m10+m15) at 100 PSI. I havent done the math so please excuse me
One thing to look at is your not maxing out the kit. That way the pump can always deliver predictably. Meaning if the pump new can deliver 200 PSI on an M15 and 1 year latter its down to 180 PSI. It no longer at full boogie can deliver the amount.
Now if you tune the car at lets say 135 PSI pressure, and the pump went from 200 capability to 180 capability.. your still covered. The point is to not run the pump at maximum unless you have to. Like your car goes from 22 PSI to 30 PSI by accident. Then you want that headroom. That is why I dont like running the system at full potential. Hence why i'm at 100 PSI at 15 PSI on my own combo. That way if the motor goes to 20 PSI or greater
there is system left.A healthy pump and vehicle electrical on twin M15's should hit the 150 PSI mark.. not that it has too.. but that it can. Keep the headroom issue in mind.
I need to make some time and make some charts for flow.. :redface:
jasjamz
THS Racer
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- Sep 30, 2004
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Would it be a good idea to tap an EGT to the #1 cylinder instead of the pre-turbo location?
Razor, incase I missed it what is the pumps output at 25psi on a single M15@ level 7.
Razor, incase I missed it what is the pumps output at 25psi on a single M15@ level 7.
Depends on battery voltage, Initial and Turnon. Should see at least 135 PSI.
As to the egt.. good question.
Where is your egt probe located at for that reading?
jasjamz
THS Racer
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What was the A/F with those readings. I thought the EGTs should be in the 1500s, or is that for race fuels? Curious on the location of the probe too.
Your probe is pre-turbo.
With 1200 degree's.. I bet its post turbo like in the down pipe.
turbo96max
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Not sure if this is the wrong place to post or perhaps I should start a new thread, you guys can let me know. Im "on the fence" if you would , trying to do my homework on the alky kit since Im finally ready$ to get one.
Are you saying that its best to run a dual nozzle system at lower psi rather than max out a single nozzle system?
Im pretty much stock, just with champion heads, pt-63, front mount, small cam. i want to run 26 psi with this kit, so I should go with a 3 bar dual nozzle kit ?
is that what the bottom line is?so not to max out the pump and have room just in case?
Are you saying that its best to run a dual nozzle system at lower psi rather than max out a single nozzle system?
Im pretty much stock, just with champion heads, pt-63, front mount, small cam. i want to run 26 psi with this kit, so I should go with a 3 bar dual nozzle kit ?
is that what the bottom line is?so not to max out the pump and have room just in case?
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