Alradco Aluminum Radiator - Looking for feedback from others

[1KWIKSIX]

I've recently installed my Alradco Aluminum Radiator (with black powder coating).
It's a beautiful piece and was a straight drop in.

I've been experiencing typically a 20deg F temperature drop in my engines operating temperatures vs the stock (re-cored) radiator that this replaces.

Can you please chime in and tell me what your experiencing for operating temperatures with this radiator.

I'd like to hear from as many who have this radiator please.

Oh, my car has a 160 deg thermostat in it, ramcharger dual fans & precision SLIC. On the highway gently cruising at 70mph with outdoor temps at 79deg F......I am showing 148 deg F to 152 deg F on my ScanMaster for engine operating temps. This is about 20 degrees cooler than with the stock radiator that was replaced. Operating temps do come up to 175 deg F while in stop and go traffic & the fans are activated lowering the temps to 165 deg range, but once back on the highway......148 to 152 deg range.
Should I be concerned? This is a street driven car that won't likely see the track.

Just wondering what everyone else is experiencing.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[CS99]

Same radiator here. I have seen the highest of 208 degress in traffic and sitting at stop lights with the AC on. Mine is an 86 gn with weber 109 stroker and ptc stock location intercooler. Most of the time, temps stay around 165.

 

[Red C5]

Not exactly the typical cooling thread. Usually it's "my car is too hot" not "is my car too cold?" The range we hear most often from people is 160-180 depending on conditions, combo, etc. Are you using both of the built in coolers?
You could throw a higher tsat in there to bring up temps a bit.

Peter

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Not exactly the typical cooling thread. Usually it's "my car is too hot" not "is my car too cold?" The range we hear most often from people is 160-180 depending on conditions, combo, etc. Are you using both of the built in coolers?
You could throw a higher tsat in there to bring up temps a bit.

Peter

Yeah, I know what you mean that this isn't your typical thread. A 20 degree temperature drop is substantial......a lot of members probably wouldn't be complaining........LOL

Please don't get me wrong Peter.....I am thrilled with the Radiator......the workmanship on this cooler is second to none...... no issues with the installation....it is a true drop in item!
Just a bit concerned with the low coolant / engine operating temperatures I'm experiencing.....148deg F to 152deg F is too cool, even for these engines.
I am using both coolers built into the radiator, both oil and transmission lines are running thru it.

Could my T-stat in there now be defective and causing this? Dunno?

I have a new 160 deg T-stat and a new 180 deg T-stat coming and will decide what to do over the next few days.

Since my chip is burned to activate fans at 175deg F, not sure how this would work if I put in a 180 degree thermostat?

dave

 

[HouTX87]

Just installed mine last week. I got the black powdercoat with both coolers. I also have a 160 T-stat and I back flushed the cooling system before putting in the new radiator and dual spal fans from trcustomparts. Outside temps were in the mid 80's and idling in the driveway for half an hour coolant temp stayed at 165. Went for a 20 min cruise and temps were 168-170. The next day outside temps were in the high 90's and coolant temps went up to 192 in traffic and about 180 on the highway. I'm very pleased. Was running 210 in traffic before.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

Well couple things to say Great product!! I dropped a wopping 20 degrees from an original crusty stock radiator. My old one was not clogged it still flowed but was seing around 190 on those 100 degree plus summer days. After I installed this Beast I havent seen over 170 with a stock fan. Can't wait to see how it operates with my 5" Front mount innercooler in front of it. Ok well maybe more than a couple of things.. oh and Pete is a swell guy too!!

 

[NicksTurbo6]

I just installed one about a month ago. I have a 160 stat, stock fan with the resistor jumped, and a PTE front mount. With the stock rad on a 90+ degree day, my coolant temps were right around 200 or so on the highway. In traffic it would slowly climb to 215 or so, and just continue to climb. Even on the highway on a slight incline the temps would rise. Before I installed the new radiator, I ran filtered water through the upper rad hose and let it drain out of the bottom hose to flush out the 25 year old coolant. I installed the radiator, added a gallon of filtered water, and a gallon of coolant, and a bottle pf RMI 25. Now my coolant temps stay right around 170. In traffic it will climb slightly, but once the fan kicks on, it comes right back down. A little FYI on my coolant readings... my Autometer gauge reads about 6 to 8 degrees warmer than my Scanmaster.


Nick

 

[mgmshar]

Yeah, I know what you mean that this isn't your typical thread. A 20 degree temperature drop is substantial......a lot of members probably wouldn't be complaining........LOL

Please don't get me wrong Peter.....I am thrilled with the Radiator......the workmanship on this cooler is second to none...... no issues with the installation....it is a true drop in item!
Just a bit concerned with the low coolant / engine operating temperatures I'm experiencing.....148deg F to 152deg F is too cool, even for these engines.
I am using both coolers built into the radiator, both oil and transmission lines are running thru it.

Could my T-stat in there now be defective and causing this? Dunno?

I have a new 160 deg T-stat and a new 180 deg T-stat coming and will decide what to do over the next few days.

Since my chip is burned to activate fans at 175deg F, not sure how this would work if I put in a 180 degree thermostat?

dave

Your coolant temperature shouldn't be running below thermostat temperature when the car is warmed up. One of two things is going on - either your thermostat is not closing fully, or your coolant temperature sensor is reading wrong.

There are risks when your engine runs too cold. One example is that the oil will never get hot enough to boil off the water that it absorbs in the crankcase, which is bad. So, it would be a good idea to confirm what's going on.

Not sure of a good way to confirm whether it's the thermostat or the sensor. Since you have to drain off some coolant either way, I would just replace both. You already have the thermostat, and the sensor should be cheap..

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick

 

[GNasty]

Your coolant temperature shouldn't be running below thermostat temperature when the car is warmed up. One of two things is going on - either your thermostat is not closing fully, or your coolant temperature sensor is reading wrong.

X2

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Am getting the same low temperature readings on both my ScanMaster & also the VDO engine coolant temperature gauge.
This should rule out a faulty temperature sensor?

Will change the thermostat as soon as I receive the new 160 T-stat already ordered & shipped from a Buick Vendor.
Maybe I should drop in a 180 deg T-stat instead?
Just wondering what this would do since my chip is programmed to command the fans to come on at 175 deg F?

Can anyone comment on the above?

Thanks
Dave

 

[mgmshar]

If you have two different gauges fed from two different coolant temperature sensors that are telling you the same story, then it's likely that your thermostat isn't closing all the way. I would replace that first.

I would install the new 160-degree thermostat. Many, many members on this board run 160-deg. thermostats, have for many years, and to my knowledge, there hasn't been any problems running at that temperature. This will keep your cylinder heads and such as cool as is reasonably possible to reduce knock. I don't think I would recommend going any colder than 160-deg., though.

I have never been a fan (ha-ha, get it?) of having a set-up where your cooling fan turns-on at a temperature that is lower than the thermostat temperature. In my mind, this forces the car to run with the thermostat closed most of the time. So, your water pump is being forced to push all of the coolant it's trying to move through the bypass and heater core. This would seem to put more stress on the water pump and make it more likely to cavitate, especially at high RPM's. In my case, I have a 160-deg. thermostat, and I've set my chip to have the fans turn on at 176-deg. and off at 169-deg. When I'm running down the road, my coolant temperature is almost always somewhere between those two numbers (since I have a CAS V2 FMIC, I don't get enough ram air flow to cool the radiator down without the fans). At 169 to 176-deg., my 160-deg. thermostat should be wide-open, the way the design is intended. The only exceptions are when I'm stuck in traffic on a hot day with the A/C on (then the temp. will go over 180), or on a near-freezing day at highway speeds (temp. will be somewhere in the 160's.). It's been this way since the early 2000's, and I haven't noticed any problems yet.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Thanks to all for your helpful suggestions.....I'm gonna change the T-stat out and install a new 160 deg T-stat and will let you know how it turns out.


Thanks again!

Dave

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Well, I changed over the T-stat & installed a new 160 T-stat.
No change, am still getting the same over cooling issues when the car is being driven and air is being forced thru the radiator.
When idling, the coolant temperature will rise to 175deg F, then fans will kick on and lower it to 165deg F and shut off, so it is operating as it should when at a stand still.
However on the highway on Sunday, while cruising at 70mph (outdoor ambient temperature was 70deg F) my coolant temperature was 142deg to 148deg F.
Both the ScanMaster & my VDO Electronic Coolant Temperature Gauge read the same low temps.
This sounds to me like a thermostat issue with the stat staying open and not closing to keep temps at or above 160deg F.
Not sure what to do next? I do have a 180 T-stat & may consider installing this? However, my chip is set for fans to come on at 175deg F, so I may have an issue here until I get a new chip with raised fan on temperature......

I may block off part of the radiator with cardboard and take it for a drive to see if this fixes this issue?
Will ohm my coolant temperature sensor to verify it's working correctly.....think I'll order a new one anyways and install.
I am going to get ahold of a temperature sensing gun and point the laser at the thermostat housing to verify the coolant temps.


Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[salvageV6]

Mines been that way in the winter for 23 years, never above 140 degrees when it's below about 30 degrees outside.

I'd probably worry a bit about it if it happened on 70 degree days.

Only have 200K on the motor so I'm still on the fence if it's a long term problem.

I was told to stuff some cardboard in the radiator but I never got around to it.

 

[mikestertwo]

In colder climates you should be running a 180* thermostat JMHO

 

[mgmshar]

My car has a 160 deg. stat. If I'm driving on a cold day (say even 45 degrees outside), the coolant temp. will stay within a few degrees of 160.

Are your VDO gauges and your scanmaster using separate sending units?

Only other thing I can think of is that coolant is somehow getting past your stat and to the radiator, or you have a lot of coolant going to your heater core. Is the restrictor to the heater core still in place?

 

[1KWIKSIX]

My car has a 160 deg. stat. If I'm driving on a cold day (say even 45 degrees outside), the coolant temp. will stay within a few degrees of 160.

Are your VDO gauges and your scanmaster using separate sending units?

Only other thing I can think of is that coolant is somehow getting past your stat and to the radiator, or you have a lot of coolant going to your heater core. Is the restrictor to the heater core still in place?

Yup, am using separate sending units for the ScanMaster & VDO temperatures, which I may add have worked well since their installation some years ago.
The heater valve is still in place. I have to agree with you that it seems somehow coolant is getting past the thermostat.

This is very strange, because I have used a 160 T-stat since I've had the car and never had it go below 160deg F . Changed the stat to a brand new 160 T-stat and same thing is occurring.

The only changes to the cooling system over the winter were: (1) the installation of a new AC Delco water pump and (2) an Alradco Aluminum Radiator.

Will install the 180 T-stat later this week and take it out for a test drive to see exactly how this changes things.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

In colder climates you should be running a 180* thermostat JMHO

Well, I've installed the 180deg T-stat and all is well. Engine coolant temperature is now in a better range which I'm more comfortable with.
Temps hit 186 before the fan turns on and will cool down to 170 for the fan shut of point. Of course after the fans shut off, the temps continue to drop a few degrees......so now it never goes below 164deg F. Seems strange to me that I was having issues with 2 different 160 T-stats that necessitated the change over to a 180 T-stat, but I now have it under control. Guess my new Alradco Rad +Glycol / RMI-25 and new water pump are just super efficient. LOL

Thanks to all for your suggestions & help.

Dave

 

[pacecarta]

maybe im not the sharprest tool in the shed but i read through this and am i to understand that you changed your thermostat and now miraculously it changed your fan turn on and turn off temp??
this doesnt just happen with chips
eric uses 168 for fan turnon temp /162 off and no way a thermostat changed that

 

[mgmshar]

I would not stop looking for some other problem. You said that you are running a 180 deg. thermostat, but the coolant temperature settles out at about 164. This means that your coolant is being cooled even though none of it is flowing through the radiator. This doesn't make any sense to me.

In the cars I've owned, the same thing always happens when I start the car from cold and drive it.

1. The car slowly warms up from cold to a few degrees above the thermostat temperature (in my case, with a 160 deg. thermostat, the coolant temp will get up to about 164 to 168 degrees).
2. The thermostat opens, and the temperature drops back below the thermostat temperature as the cold coolant that was in the radiator rushes to the engine block. The thermostat re-closes.
3. The coolant temperature rises again to the thermostat temperature, and the thermostat opens again.
4a. If it's relatively cool outside and I'm driving down the road, the coolant temperature will then stay very close to the thermostat temperature. The thermostat is cracked open and/or cycling open and closed, and there is enough cold air coming through the radiator that the fan is not needed.
4b. If it's warm outside, or if the car is not moving, the coolant temperature will warm up to the fan turn-on temp (176 deg. for me), and then cool off to the fan turn-off point (169 deg. for me). The coolant temperature will just cycle up-and-down between the fan turn-on and turn-off points. This whole time, the thermostat is open.
4c. If it's really hot outside or if I'm running the A/C, the coolant temperature will stay above the fan turn-off point, and the fan will run constantly. This whole time, the thermostat is open.

What is strange about your car is that the coolant temperature is running below your thermostat temperature even after the car is warmed up. This doesn't make sense unless it's arctic cold outside. I've never seen a car do that unless something weird was happening. This goes not just for GN's, but for all my other cars as well.

The only way I can figure your car doing what it's doing would be:

1. Both of your temperature sensors are off (seems unlikely, but weirder things have happened).
2. Somehow coolant is still getting past your closed thermostat and out to the radiator. I can only imagine this happening if somebody machined something in your intake manifold or something - guessing you would have seen it when you replaced the thermostat. Maybe start the car with the radiator capp off while it's cold - do you see coolant flowing through the radiator tubes and into the tank? You shouldn't see any coolant flowing through the radiator tubes when the car is cold. It sometimes helps to drain off a little bit of coolant when you check this so you can see the top few tubes where they enter the tank.
3. There is way more coolant going through the heater core lines than should be. If I remember correctly, one of the fittings that goes between the hard pipes and intake manifold is supposed to have a restrictor in it - is it still there? Hopefully somebody will chime-in and confirm I remember that correctly. Also, can you visually verify that your vacuum valve is swiching off and blocking the flow when you don't have the heat on (turn on the vent setting, and slide the temperature switch between hot and cold. You should be able to see the heater flow control valve moving on and off).

I can't think of any other way this could be happening.