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Alradco Aluminum Radiator - Looking for feedback from others

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Thanks for the suggestions Mike.
I'll check to see inside the radiator with cap off from cold to verify there is no flow of coolant ciculating.

Will also check the vacuum operation of the heater valve.

dave
 
Thanks for the suggestions Mike.
I'll check to see inside the radiator with cap off from cold to verify there is no flow of coolant ciculating.

Will also check the vacuum operation of the heater valve.

dave


Was re-reading all these posts to be sure I haven't overlooked anything and am wondering about this restriction that is supposed to be in the upper cooling line? Do you mean the heater valve? I do have (and have always had the heater valve in place). If there is some other "restriction" in the cooling system that Mike has eluded to, could someone please chime in.

thanks to all.

Dave
 
To clarify, there is of course the heater flow control valve up against the firewall near the heater core. Check to make sure that it opens and closes as I described above.

Further, you have the two black metal lines that run from the intake manifold back to the heater core. Those metal lines attach to the intake manifold via two metal adapter fittings. One of those fittings has a flow restrictor in it - I believe the restrictor hole is about 3/16" in diameter. If all else fails, make sure your fitting has the retrictor in place. If you don't, way too much coolant will flow to the heater core, especially when the thermostat is closed.

Read Post #14 in this thread: http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/what-is-the-thread-pitch.343228/#post-2737540

Before doing any of the above, I would do the following: use your radiator petcock (love saying that word) to drain out about 4 or 5 inches of water from your radiator. Makes sure you can see the top 4 or 5 rows of tubes inside the tank through the radiator cap opening. Of course, do this when the car is cold. Then, start the car and watch the temp. gauge and tubes in the radiator tank.
1. When you start the car cold, you should see no coolant coming through the tubes. If you're not sure, rev the engine - you should still see no coolant coming out of the tubes. As the engine warms, the coolant level in the radiator will begin to rise as it expands. It gets a little scary seeing it inch it's way up the tank while the cap is off. This is normal. That's why it's important to drain off several inches of coolant from the radiator in the first place.
2. When the car reaches thermostat temperature (about 180 degrees, may go a bit higher), the thermostat should open, and you should see some coolant coming out of the tubes. It will be kind of a trickle at idle. If you're not sure, rev the engine - if the thermostat is open, you will see coolant streaming out of the tubes.
3. The thermostat may re-close for a moment when the cold coolant in the radiator rushes into the engine at the time the thermostat opens. This is normal. When this happens, coolant flow through the tubes might stop again for a short time.
4. From this point on - if the coolant temperature is above 180 degrees, you should see coolant flowing out of the tubes. If the cooolant temperature is below 180 degrees (say the 164 that you said above), you should see no coolant flowing out of the tubes.

If all of the above happens the way I wrote it, your thermostat and temp. gauge are working correctly. If your temperature gauge shows 164 degrees, but you see coolant coming out of the tubes, you know for sure that either your gauge is wrong, or the thermostat is not working properly.

If you go through the above and everything is working correctly, then I would start looking at the stuff associated with the heater core (i.e. the heater control valve and the restrictor). No sense wasting your time on the heater core stuff until you verify your temperature gauge and thermostat operation.

Hope this helps...
 
Hey Mike,

Just got back in from running the car and 1)no coolant flowing thru the rad until the thermostat opens at 180deg F, 2) I did verify that the black heater coolant lines & hoses on the side of the manifold feel like there is not heater valve problem. By this, I mean that the top line & hose connected to the heater control valve seem about 20deg cooler to the touch, when the car is up to operating temp and the heater is not on. When I turn the heater on......have visually verified that the vacuum operated heater valve opens at this instant and now both hoses and coolant lines are very hot (ie feels like same temperature) , which would indicated that the heater control valve is functioning properly and not leaking prematurely allowing coolant thru when in the closed position.
So, it appears that all the above are in good working order and functioning properly.

Now if I understand correctly, the restrictor fitting is in the heater coolant line. I would describe it as a 1/2" NPT x AN style of fitting that screws into the manifold and attaches to the nut on the end of the heater tube assembly?

I don't believe that I removed this fitting at that time as I seemed to be too dificult to remove and I didn't want to damage it. S0, I am pretty sure that the stock factory fitting is still installed. If so, I'm believing that the restrictor fitting would still in place. I will double check, because at that time, I did purchase a very nice blue anodized aluminum fitting from Brian at GBody. If it's still in my tool box, then for sure the factory fitting is still in place.

I have been driving the car for several years now with exactly the same set up and no cooling issues. Only changes made over the winter was the new rad and water pump.

The car seems to be operating in a much better temperature range now that I've swung over to the 180 stat. When driving and air is being forced thru the radiator.........I see by the temperature displayed on the ScanMaster, that the fans turn on at 186 shut off at 170 deg F (which is what the chip is set up for now), however after the fans shut off.....temps will continue to drop a few more degrees, may dip to 167, or 165 before starting to climb back up in temps.

Now I want to point out that I am not running a front mount intercooler and my AC is not functioning at the moment, so it is going to be running alot cooler than guys with similar set ups, but front mounts and working AC.

dave
 
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