anti theft problem

[INEEDAGN]

You are probably right about it showing for more than a split second. You aren't right about the alternator needing the battery once its running (the battery actually becomes a load and not a source since its being charged by the alternator) but now we are getting off topic lol. Just for shits and giggles though it wouldn't take more than a few seconds to clamp one end of a jumper cable to the neg. stud (giggity) and the other to clean ground on the motor and try it. Possible that the spike is only at the initial hit with the sol. engaging and spoolin up from a dead stop?

Shit I dunno I'm outta guesses but hey I tried lemme drink on it awhile longer whilst I wrench on my tr....

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[INEEDAGN]

Thanks for the writeup on the oil pump mods btw I just did that a couple weeks ago

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[earlbrown]

The alternator isn't able to put out a true DC current due to the design of the rectifier. The battery is needed to 'smooth' it out.

(bottom line)

On the redundant ground to the engine, that was covered when my Blazer's battery was clamped to the engine.


How's your pressure and ramp up speed?

 

[INEEDAGN]

How's your pressure and ramp up speed?

Lol its funny you mention oil psi. Well I drove it 65 miles in about 2 weeks. And then I plugged in the factory oil psi switch! Lol the light goes off when I start it and that's about all I know (or care).

I wondered if you clamped a ground to the motor. Well we can break this down pretty good yet. If you have a larger than normal voltage drop, then its either a larger than normal resistance or a larger than normal load (since we know its not a supply issue). I can see why you want to ditch the anti theft in this situation it'd be a lot less hassle.
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[earlbrown]

Keep in mind the voltage drop on the screengrab can't be trusted. It's data that's reported from the offending component. Much like when a woman says she's "fine".... there's a chance is accurate, but....

I don't run a gauge either. My light usually goes out before the engine starts and I know the guy that built my cover. He talks like he knows what he's talking about.

 

[INEEDAGN]

Lol I know all about the woman being "fine". So how good of a meter/scope do you have access to? If you spend enough money on one, it'd catch the voltage drop. I'd bet my Snap on Vantage could log it (and I can try it tomorrow on both my cars if you would like but I'm done out there tonight). It's a damn sensitive scope. If it IS a very brief voltage drop, what about a capacitor across the ecm power/ground at the ecm? Have you tried a different ecm? Hell this has me all kinds of curious (except bi-curious).

 

[TurboDave]

That's what I theorized too.

That's why I put a different known good battery in the GN, then hooked up my Blazer to fortify it and double up on the batteries. The 2nd battery has no problem cranking my 454BBC jetboat engine, so I know it has the stones to spin a low compression V6. The starter is an LT4 gear reduction unit. I've never even heard it bog down.

I don't put the graph I posted to be 100% accurate as the offending componet is the thing responsible for sending the data. Plus if the voltage drop was enough to legitimately reset the chip, the lean cruise setting should have disappeared too.

Voltage droop isn't enough to reset the chip, but is low enough to reset the anti theft feature. You can always get the chip re-burned to remove the AT.

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[earlbrown]

Lol I know all about the woman being "fine". So how good of a meter/scope do you have access to? If you spend enough money on one, it'd catch the voltage drop. I'd bet my Snap on Vantage could log it (and I can try it tomorrow on both my cars if you would like but I'm done out there tonight). It's a damn sensitive scope. If it IS a very brief voltage drop, what about a capacitor across the ecm power/ground at the ecm? Have you tried a different ecm? Hell this has me all kinds of curious (except bi-curious).

I don't have a scope. The only reason I hooked up the PL was to make sure the park flag was being correctly actuated during the disarm sequence. Honestly I could care less about the drop. I'm perfectly OK with a slight drop when the starter first hits.

I had thought about making a harness to hook up a cordless drill battery to fortify the incab wiring but I couldn't find any cigarette lighter adapters (plus it was getting dark and I was getting madder by the second). I thought about laying a cap across the power too. I mentioned that to Bob but never got a reply on that one.

Personally I'm not going to cut into my harness just to try and patch a problem that is better off not existing in the first place. Plus i'm sure the ECM already has caps in it that should be doing the same job. The ECM is fine, the car will start right up with the chip out. It just runs like shit because the default programming doesn't account for my 60's.

Normally I'd look at this issue as a 'clue' that something else is going on (like the thermostat thread), then concentrate on handling it before it rears it's head away from home.... In this case, I don't think a voltage drop when a starter first hits is anything I need to lose sleep over. It's natural for that to happen when you start letting the electrons out.