Any Interest In Bigger Stainless Fuel Rails?


Well-Known Member
Dec 15, 2002
Well my CNC buddy said this Winter is going to be a tad slower than expected and wanted to know if I had anything that he'd be able to make.

So, after seeing what Aluminum does with E85 I'm getting a bit antsy about my aluminum Champion Fuel Rails and how they're going to hold up years from now.

My thoughts are

1) Make bolt on rails from SS
2) Make the ID bigger since we need 30% more volume

I can't find the Champion Fuel Rails on their site so the rear fitting and hose system they used might not be available.

I talked to a different member about doing this for the Stage I and II engines so it's possible to have a setup for both.

It's also easy then to do this in Aluminum for others wanting more rail volume, cheaper and bolt on ability.
I don't recall the Champion pricing, but I'll guarantee it will be more than that by probably 50% since it's stainless and we're talking small run numbers of probably 10 at a crack. Champion probably had 50 sets at a time going to help their pricing and it's aluminum.

I'm going to drop off the stock rails Tuesday and see what he thinks later in the week after he's had some time to check them out.

But I probably won't pull the trigger on this unless there's more than just me who'd buy these. The Bosch 044 fitting is a design drop in the bucket compared to these so I doubt he'll eat the initial design and setup fees this time.
please keep us posted. what kind of time frame we looking at? holidays are coming up :(
Realistically, after the new year the earliest I'd bet. I'm on my way over to him in about an hour so the 1st stage isn't even done, not sure if he thinks it's worth doing etc.

From here I'd probably have to get a real indication of who'd be interested with whatever price he thought we'd be at around 10 units. Most guys don't want to change out fuel filters so swapping out rails for E85 at probably $350+ isn't probably going to sing really well.
They dont need to be bigger the stock railes have a larger inside diamiter then the aluminum Champion Fuel Rails they just need to be made with out the restrictions of the stock rails. Are they going to be a one piece rail or two set up? If they were a true -8 set up that you could plum to a rear center mounted fuel regulator that would be awsome and he could probably make them cheeper since he would be selling them with out the AN fittings and hose, leve that part up to who ever buys them to get. If I was to do it I would make a fuil rail for each side with a 1/2 inside diameter and dash -8 male threads machined on each end this way you could feed each rail and run one reg for them. He could also sellthem as a kit what I mean is he could make the rails and injector bungs and then let the buyer weld the bungs in . this is all things that may cheepen them up and get some of us to open our walets.
Well we definitely won't have the feed restriction the stock rail does but....

Rail volume is important, I don't see the reason of keeping the stock ID when we already know #1 gets leaner and leaner as HP and huge injectors are feeding from Momma Rail. 1/2" ID is a good starting point and it's not going to change the price one dollar.

Two separate rails with -8's on each end, this way some can dual feed or do it like the Champions.

I think we're going to add a 1/8NPT port for a digital gauge. I'm thinking this might go on top of the driver side rail or the FP side.

We'll have the stock location FP opening but we'll also make a plate to block it off when using the -8 driver front opening for a bigger FP regulator setup. Hopes are with the larger rail ID you wouldn't need to do the dual feed unless you're a Stage Engine.

It's probably not going to be that much different than the Champions other than the larger ID, Stainless and the 1/8th NPT port.
Havent seen a set of champions but doesnt the champions move one of the monting holes to the plenum? sure would be nice to keep the mounting holes in the stock location.

Correct me if i am wrong
I just installed the ross machine fuel rails. I had to rework the coilpack bracket a little. The clamps they use will allow the rail to twist and move slightly. After everything was plumbed i put some rite stuff rtv on the rail and slid the clamp over it and it is solid now.


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I forgot about the Ross rails, I don't know how clear anodizing is but it's probably good enough.

I don't see the need to move forward after seeing the Ross rails and that they're clear anodized.
I forgot about the Ross rails, I don't know how clear anodizing is but it's probably good enough.

I don't see the need to move forward after seeing the Ross rails and that they're clear anodized.

From my understanding they are not going to be making them anymore. Just selling off what they have left.
LOL, well I guess we're back on then huh. LOL

I should probably get a set of his and use that as a reference with the stockers and just do them in stainless and be done.
OK guys I found a place that sells the stainless fuel rail parts in bulk. The rail is $10 per ft the injectors bungs are $14 each and an fittings are $15 each. only one draw back they only sell in -6 and -8 . And then you have to do the welding your self or pay some one to do it.
I also found a place that will do custom aluminum railes for 150 but ther -6 and then you would have to have them anadized. The stainless place is e-mailing me some pics so as soon as I get it Ill let you know.
I also found this DIY on making them your self from ordinary stainless tubing. Tech Page
Well I dropped off the rails today anyways, it looks pretty promising. We're looking at a minimum of 1/2" ID, probably 15mm or around 9/16ths, and we have a cool option for the rear rail so you can not only dual feed it, but also do it like the stocker with a screw in stainless rail back there.

This won't see my car until late Feb I'd bet but I'll get this one on the table for us as another option. I also don't care to make $$ on it so the price should be very fair for USA made and designed SS rails that bolt on. ;)
so -8 inlets? what is the ID of the rail? so the smalles point will be the -8? what about having -10? i know its over kill but some pump like the fuel lab have -10 in and out. that way you can plum -10 all the way to the rail
With a minimum of 1/2" ID we'd do -8's, but since E85 needs 30% more volume big HP GN's would really need a 5/8ths ID to ensure fuel rail volume if it were single hose feed through the passenger front inlet.

I'm now leaning towards 5/8" ID and -10 inlet/outlet except for the FPR side where that would be a -6 with the stock FPR hole in the stock location.