Any testimonials with this turbo

[texasterror]

My TE 60 took a crap on me and I'm currently chatting with Bison and I have to say, what I've read about the below turbo or brand of turbo seems pretty bad ass (I have never heard of them before until Bison mentioned them). Yes they are pricey but whatever. If Bison has the below item in his inventory then I plan on getting it from him. What I don't understand are the options in the drop down list box in the attached link (V Band, T3, etc etc) and then there's the water cooled thing. I have never heard of any of these items and I own two of these cars so that's sad on my part I guess but I'm trying to learn so please forgive my ignorance). From a glance It doesn't seem to just bolt up the way by TE-60 does and does anyone have any comparison between my Garret TE6) vs Something like in the link?

By the way my car is modified but nothing crazy (Stock Heads but they are cleaned/polished/ported, Alky Control, Don Wang Built Tranny, 3200 stall cant remember the torque converter but its purple so vigilante?, 80 pound injectors, SD2 Chip, Bored .30 over, 204/214 flat tapped cam, internals are all aftermarket/forged but the crank isn't , hotwire, walboro 340, 62mm plenum, RJC power plate, big boy front mount intercooler, Broke down TE-60). The goal is to get down the track in the mid to high 10's (or at least beat a GTR from a dig and also beat a new Z06). As for MPH I have no clue, I just want to go fast. It's a full weight car with a/c.

I just want to see who has used this turbo and their experience with it. From my messages with Bison (who knows his stuff and speaks a technical language I can barely keep up with) I realize I'm having to read a lot, I just found out that the inducer and the exducer (assuming that's a word) are different sizes and I have owned one of these cars since 2007 (that's pretty sad).

http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbos/borgwarner-efr-8374-turbo-2.html

 

[TurboDave]

Yes, the EFR turbos are super bad-ass!!! But..... They don't just bolt up. They use a square T3 or T4 mounting flange, and you'll also need a custom downpipe fabbed up because they use V band couplings.

 

[turbo89]

Yes, the EFR turbos are super bad-ass!!! But..... They don't just bolt up. They use a square T3 or T4 mounting flange, and you'll also need a custom downpipe fabbed up because they use V band couplings.

The ATR headers / downpipes don't need much to make them work

 

[texasterror]

WTF, I already have a down pipe with a 44MM wastegate. So when you say custom, its not going to be anything off the shelves of our supporting vendors but rather i'd have to have someone fabricate it for me? Rebuilding my TE60 for the second time is sounding like an option all though, I'd prefer a ball bearing turbo.

 

[turbo89]

WTF, I already have a down pipe with a 44MM wastegate. So when you say custom, its not going to be anything off the shelves of our supporting vendors but rather i'd have to have someone fabricate it for me? Rebuilding my TE60 for the second time is sounding like an option all though, I'd prefer a ball bearing turbo.

That's what he is saying YES.. the factory headers are 3 bolt.. the ATR's were available in 4 bolts .... the downpipes for the EFR turbo's are Vband

Can you make it work with some fabrication .. YES.. is it difficult ... NOT REALLY ... will off the shelf headers / downpipes work .. NO

Is the performance of the EFR's that much better .. YES

Is it worth all the Extra hassle ... for your application ... NO !

 

[jpwalt1987]

There at Borg Warner turbos available that utilize the Buick 3 bolt exhaust housing. They are available from WORK Turbochargers in AL. I have one and it is badass

 

[blacksheep6]

I ran a efr7163 on my sti. Efr turbos are the cream of the crop. They use military grade dbb and a low enertia gamma ti turbine wheel. EFR turbos outperform every other turbo on the market in transient response. The efr 7163 was developed for indi cars. They actually run a twin turbo setup. That being said they don't move air like a presecion turbo does. And with gn technology being so old you may not see the benefits of this turbo on this platform. I would go with one of bison's turbos and save the extra money for other possible modifications.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

my TE-60 lasted 5 yrs?

 

[dank GN]

I had reed at work turbos machine my TE60 into a 6765 . It's pretty bad ass because on the streets it's just a TE60 lol

 

[2QUICK2B6]

shhh that's top secret
lol

 

[t-typinator]

My TE 60 took a crap on me and I'm currently chatting with Bison and I have to say, what I've read about the below turbo or brand of turbo seems pretty bad ass (I have never heard of them before until Bison mentioned them). Yes they are pricey but whatever. If Bison has the below item in his inventory then I plan on getting it from him. What I don't understand are the options in the drop down list box in the attached link (V Band, T3, etc etc) and then there's the water cooled thing. I have never heard of any of these items and I own two of these cars so that's sad on my part I guess but I'm trying to learn so please forgive my ignorance). From a glance It doesn't seem to just bolt up the way by TE-60 does and does anyone have any comparison between my Garret TE6) vs Something like in the link?

By the way my car is modified but nothing crazy (Stock Heads but they are cleaned/polished/ported, Alky Control, Don Wang Built Tranny, 3200 stall cant remember the torque converter but its purple so vigilante?, 80 pound injectors, SD2 Chip, Bored .30 over, 204/214 flat tapped cam, internals are all aftermarket/forged but the crank isn't , hotwire, walboro 340, 62mm plenum, RJC power plate, big boy front mount intercooler, Broke down TE-60). The goal is to get down the track in the mid to high 10's (or at least beat a GTR from a dig and also beat a new Z06). As for MPH I have no clue, I just want to go fast. It's a full weight car with a/c.

I just want to see who has used this turbo and their experience with it. From my messages with Bison (who knows his stuff and speaks a technical language I can barely keep up with) I realize I'm having to read a lot, I just found out that the inducer and the exducer (assuming that's a word) are different sizes and I have owned one of these cars since 2007 (that's pretty sad).

http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbos/borgwarner-efr-8374-turbo-2.html

Sounds like you have all the right supporting parts ,ported heads,cam,80lb inj,340 pump,built trans, loose converter,forged bottom end, front mount ,alky injection,etc.
I'm thinking 6262 might be the ticket,see what Bison says.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

I agree

 

[V6sleeper]

Have bison fit you up with a ported 6152 or a Mfs 6262..imo..and the vigilante's are more on the pink side then purple..

 

[chris kirk]

My TE 60 took a crap on me and I'm currently chatting with Bison and I have to say, what I've read about the below turbo or brand of turbo seems pretty bad ass (I have never heard of them before until Bison mentioned them). Yes they are pricey but whatever. If Bison has the below item in his inventory then I plan on getting it from him. What I don't understand are the options in the drop down list box in the attached link (V Band, T3, etc etc) and then there's the water cooled thing. I have never heard of any of these items and I own two of these cars so that's sad on my part I guess but I'm trying to learn so please forgive my ignorance). From a glance It doesn't seem to just bolt up the way by TE-60 does and does anyone have any comparison between my Garret TE6) vs Something like in the link?

By the way my car is modified but nothing crazy (Stock Heads but they are cleaned/polished/ported, Alky Control, Don Wang Built Tranny, 3200 stall cant remember the torque converter but its purple so vigilante?, 80 pound injectors, SD2 Chip, Bored .30 over, 204/214 flat tapped cam, internals are all aftermarket/forged but the crank isn't , hotwire, walboro 340, 62mm plenum, RJC power plate, big boy front mount intercooler, Broke down TE-60). The goal is to get down the track in the mid to high 10's (or at least beat a GTR from a dig and also beat a new Z06). As for MPH I have no clue, I just want to go fast. It's a full weight car with a/c.

I just want to see who has used this turbo and their experience with it. From my messages with Bison (who knows his stuff and speaks a technical language I can barely keep up with) I realize I'm having to read a lot, I just found out that the inducer and the exducer (assuming that's a word) are different sizes and I have owned one of these cars since 2007 (that's pretty sad).

http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbos/borgwarner-efr-8374-turbo-2.html

They are bad ass..... IMO, Borg Werner and Garrett turbos are the best. However, Turbonetics and Precision are very good turbos/products, too. Precision seems to be the turbo of choice in the Buick arena. From what I've read Borg Werner and Garrett do the most research and testing, therefore, driving the market in the newest and best technology. I personally went with a Garrett turbo.... If Bison recommended that turbo to you, (or any turbo for that matter) then by all means you should use it. He knows more about turbo's and the correct applications to use them with, then the people who design them. Borg Werner turbo's are expensive, especially the DBB with billet wheels, but my thoughts are pretty simple; "it's only money", "you get what you pay for", and "go big, or, go home." Making the application work for you isn't hard and it's worth it. It looks like you've addressed most, if not all of the motor/trans. (block, cam, rotating, trans, converter and so on....) I think if you're still using the stock headers, then you're holding back future potential of your build. I know, I know there's people out there that have gone low 9's with stock headers/DP. Yea, yea, yea.... bla, bla, bla.... We could also still shit outside, but we don't! So why waste a bunch of time and money trying to fabricate the stock stuff just to make it work when you could just simply buy a set of SS headers/DP from TA , do a little fabrication work, and be done with it.... Almost all of the new technology out there that makes these cars fast as shit doesn't work with 30 year old stock parts, unless of course you fabricate the hell out of it. It's technology that's old and outdated. Buy a set of 4 bolt (T4) SS headers from TA to use with your external gate and a 3" SS external DP (if you don't already have one) Make sure you use an experienced welder to fabricate the V-band clamps and the gate. Some minor fabrication, but not much. The V- bands make it easier to work on and it's a very clean look. Good luck!

 

[Reggie West]

Have a look at Comp Turbo. I have used 5 different turbos from them on different cars and they have performed very well. The last one we built was a 3 Bolt 71 gtq billet wheel, .81 exh housing. Triple ball bearing. There is no lag with that turbo, you roll your foot in it while cruising and the boost gauge is reading 1 psi. It is almost like the Borg Warner turbos I have driven on the ecoboost f150 or cts v sport.

Bison is very good at matching turbos to combos as well. He will not steer you wrong either.

Do your research and go with what you are comfortable with.

I have yet to replace a Comp turbo and the one on my car has been there for 7 years and two motor rebuilds.

 

[texasterror]

Ok

That's what he is saying YES.. the factory headers are 3 bolt.. the ATR's were available in 4 bolts .... the downpipes for the EFR turbo's are Vband

Can you make it work with some fabrication .. YES.. is it difficult ... NOT REALLY ... will off the shelf headers / downpipes work .. NO

Is the performance of the EFR's that much better .. YES

Is it worth all the Extra hassle ... for your application ... NO !

I agree it might not be worth the extra hassle for my application but thanks for step by step explaining it. I eventually plan on upgrading the heads in two or three years after I max out my combo and figure out tuning (I just got my SD2 Chip).

 

[texasterror]

my TE-60 lasted 5 yrs?

Yeah I have no clue why mine didn't last long but it has sat there for a year while I was overseas. My friend would start the car here and there but it was never under load so I have no clue if that affects anything (maybe oil not flowing through the turbo, I don't know).

 

[texasterror]

Sounds like you have all the right supporting parts ,ported heads,cam,80lb inj,340 pump,built trans, loose converter,forged bottom end, front mount ,alky injection,etc.
I'm thinking 6262 might be the ticket,see what Bison says.

Yeah Bison and I have a conversation going on right now, the GT35R is what we are looking at, im just hoping its a 3 bolt. When you say 6262 which brand is that? Im assuming that the naming convention is based on the inducer and exducer side, example 62 mm inducer and 62mm inducter hence 6262 and the same thing if it was a 6265. Is there a rule of thumb regarding the diameter like the smaller the inducer size the faster the turbo spools or something like that?

 

[texasterror]

They are bad ass..... IMO, Borg Werner and Garrett turbos are the best. However, Turbonetics and Precision are very good turbos/products, too. Precision seems to be the turbo of choice in the Buick arena. From what I've read Borg Werner and Garrett do the most research and testing, therefore, driving the market in the newest and best technology. I personally went with a Garrett turbo.... If Bison recommended that turbo to you, (or any turbo for that matter) then by all means you should use it. He knows more about turbo's and the correct applications to use them with, then the people who design them. Borg Werner turbo's are expensive, especially the DBB with billet wheels, but my thoughts are pretty simple; "it's only money", "you get what you pay for", and "go big, or, go home." Making the application work for you isn't hard and it's worth it. It looks like you've addressed most, if not all of the motor/trans. (block, cam, rotating, trans, converter and so on....) I think if you're still using the stock headers, then you're holding back future potential of your build. I know, I know there's people out there that have gone low 9's with stock headers/DP. Yea, yea, yea.... bla, bla, bla.... We could also still shit outside, but we don't! So why waste a bunch of time and money trying to fabricate the stock stuff just to make it work when you could just simply buy a set of SS headers/DP from TA , do a little fabrication work, and be done with it.... Almost all of the new technology out there that makes these cars fast as shit doesn't work with 30 year old stock parts, unless of course you fabricate the hell out of it. It's technology that's old and outdated. Buy a set of 4 bolt (T4) SS headers from TA to use with your external gate and a 3" SS external DP (if you don't already have one) Make sure you use an experienced welder to fabricate the V-band clamps and the gate. Some minor fabrication, but not much. The V- bands make it easier to work on and it's a very clean look. Good luck!

I have stock headers but I had them ceramic coated (probably a waste of money). I honestly don't want to do any fabricating or anything complicated, I just want to pay for it and bolt it on. Yeah I have an external downpipe. I need to google V-bands, I have no clue what that is. By the way is that a dogo argentine in your avatar? that's a pretty rare and badass dog. I plan on getting one and a boerboel after I stop traveling so much for work.

 

[t-typinator]

Yeah Bison and I have a conversation going on right now, the GT35R is what we are looking at, im just hoping its a 3 bolt. When you say 6262 which brand is that? Im assuming that the naming convention is based on the inducer and exducer side, example 62 mm inducer and 62mm inducter hence 6262 and the same thing if it was a 6265. Is there a rule of thumb regarding the diameter like the smaller the inducer size the faster the turbo spools or something like that?

Here is a link to the 6262 . http://www.precisionturbo.net/Stree...treet-and-Race-Turbocharger---TA6262-CEA®/237

But if you are working with Bison and he is suggesting something different ,i would listen to what he is telling you ,he's forgotten more about turbo's then most people will ever know.

I suggested it , because it is a nice step up from the your last turbo, and is capable of making the power for your high 10 second goal , should be pretty much a direct bolt in,and not be too overly large ,but still give you enough turbo if you want to turn up your power level in the future with Better heads,more cam etc.