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anyone been to the dyno?

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blueta

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Messages
539
Just want to see what my brother hot air's are putting down now adays. List mods/gas/chip/boost/etc. I will be heading to one in lime a month or so :cool:
 
My dad's 84 put down 428hp and 518lbs to the wheels. This was 10psi boost and timing wouldn't go over 14 degrees. The 4,000 stall convertor was unlocked also. It should hit the 800rwhp goal when the problems get sorted out and the boost gets turned up and the convertor locked. I guess I should add it's a stageII setup so it doesn't qualify as a hotair but it's an 84 for what it matters :) .

For what it's worth it was pretty close to my car when I had the wick turned up. I get free dyno time so as soon as mine is running I'll have some numbers.
 
Broke one sent you a pm back :) cool84...that's some great #'s! Lucky stage people :mad:
 
yeah.. a friend paid me to put mine on the dyno where he worked, it was NOT ready for it, as the numbers showed. huge amounts of false knock, 10psi boost.

stats@ the time:
9" underhood k&n
maf translator with granatelli LS1 maf
stage 3 cheetah turbo
bluetop injectors
jay carter 17* chip
atr up pipe
atr 2.5" dp
3" cutout
3" cat
3" exhaust
cracked p/s header


so the story on the dyno...

problems:

false knock, everytime the gas was stabbed, immediate all reds on knock gauge, this is happening due to the header knocking into the dp... instant 30 degrees of knock retard.

17* - 30* = -13* timing

boost,
it would only hit 10psi, spooling slow as **** every single time

a/f ratio:
was completely pegged off the chart rich every run

weather:
average 100* humid as **** texas summer day

it put down 215/336 in those horrible conditions.

i'd assume with 17*timing instead of -13* it would make gobs more power, even still at 10psi

i'd also assume if the a/f stayed close to normal, also, it would make way more power..

and then of course the boost issue.. without propane i can run about 17psi.. with propane about 23.

so, i guess i'm happy with the results considering how horrible everything was, it still made what equates to over 400ft-lb tq at the crank

if i ever get the bugs worked out.. you guys will be the first to know.
 
2 years ago first time ever at a dyno no tuning, pump gas and 15psi =267hp / 342lbs of torque. I did not have a scan tool at the time and a friend took it for me cause i had to work that day.
 
Mods!!!

At the time I had a stock block and heads, lunati 200 cam, ta 49 w/ 30lb injectors. Test pipe and Hooker cat back exhaust system.
 
in 1997, two years before I bought my car, the car pulled this:
269 peak hp
342 peak ft/lb tq

No scan tool as I was told, clear skies, 70 + degrees out in northern NJ- chasis dyno. Car had:
Unknown (atr?) headers
stock DP, Up Pipe
stock block and ported irons with stock intake
felpro all gaskets, stock cam, K&N, postons Hot Air 94 Chip, eaton rear unit, kenne bell wastegate with boost at 14 lbs
accufab adj FPR, and fuel was 110

according to the notes, the car had some stalling issues, and not the torque converter...Car was running rich i think. That was all in the notes for tuning and all, just said car had multiple stalls prior to final numbers. then "tuning issue," in bold. The sheet came with the car, vin and all check up. I guess it was legit, but I only drove the car about 10 times before it was put away for resto. With the future mods, I am seeking that magical 500 Hp, but I got a loooong way to go.

mods now and for the future include: bored block, ported irons, ported intake, speedpro 204/214 split cam, roller timing set, roller rockers, 87 computer maf and mat, 3000 stall converter, TA54 turbo, 42.5 injectors, SMC alky, and a JIM TESTA chip, 3"DP, atr stainless up pipe, bored TB, and I think that will help to reach my goal of mid to high 11's.

Check the progress out at: www.my84t-typenj.50megs.com

John
 
hey guys how do u know when u have knock? and t-type 84 how did u get rid of ur knock?
 
Originally posted by turbobooster
hey guys how do u know when u have knock? and t-type 84 how did u get rid of ur knock?

well, false knock is caused by things bumping eachother.. in my case motor mounts are toast, and the dp was welded to the cat at a bad angle, keeping it too close to the header..

if i put the car in neutral and rev it, once it hits 3k rpm the knock sensor MAXES..

knowing its impossible for the car to knock without any load, unless it was rod bearings or something (which it isnt.. because i would be able to hear them if it was), proves to me this is most likely the case.

the only problem is i dont have a lot of time for downtime.. so these problems go unfixed. i have school in the daytime and work nights, leaving me no real time to take it all apart and get it fixed RIGHT.. summer is coming and im quitting my job so i'll hopefully have some time... i get free dyno time cause my friend owns a shop, so i want to get this fixed asap so i can see what the car can REALLY do.. i'm excited.
 
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