I had a mchines shop cut my exh valve bosses a few years ago, and took the heads back to them. Then they never started on heads , so took them to a cylinder head service place. They were miffed as I told them that the 89-92 TTA valves were to be used , or to buy new ones. They came up using SBI brand valves. I told them to only use a strong brand. Anyone heard of these? I imagine theyre junk from china.
Anyone useing SBI valves?
- Thread starter ThikStik
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Google is your "bestest friend"!
SBI engine valves - Google Search
LOTS of items here, that refer to SBI valves.
SBI engine valves - Google Search
LOTS of items here, that refer to SBI valves.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
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I'm wondering if there's a direct contact, that may have some info as to how they are made, and the material content. Might be a good idea to confirm they aren't going to give problems , especially on the exhaust side....
Here's the link direct to SBI. At the bottom of the page, is thier fone info... I'd call'm up, and see what they recommend.
http://www.sbintl.com/techtopics.html
Here's the link direct to SBI. At the bottom of the page, is thier fone info... I'd call'm up, and see what they recommend.
http://www.sbintl.com/techtopics.html
Chuck,
Thanks for the link. I looked at the site and it wont give specific info , so ill be calling them. An engine supplier here said they sell alot and that its a "good" aftermarket replacement. So that sounds weak to me. Idiot head rebuilders didnt do any other specific things i asked them. If i find theyre marginal, and have to go with another valve,i will be pissed because thatlle be the 3rd valve job in about 15k miles. Isnt taking metal away from seats asking for problems?
Thanks for the link. I looked at the site and it wont give specific info , so ill be calling them. An engine supplier here said they sell alot and that its a "good" aftermarket replacement. So that sounds weak to me. Idiot head rebuilders didnt do any other specific things i asked them. If i find theyre marginal, and have to go with another valve,i will be pissed because thatlle be the 3rd valve job in about 15k miles. Isnt taking metal away from seats asking for problems?
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You are welcome...
"If i find theyre marginal, and have to go with another valve,i will be pissed because thatlle be the 3rd valve job in about 15k miles. Isnt taking metal away from seats asking for problems?"
I think I'd be looking for some input as to why 3 valve jobs in 15K. Leaks?, engine failures?
Excessive grinding will sink the valves, and mess w/ the flow. If the engine does not have an adjustable valvetrain, you can get into problems w/ lifter preload and rocker geometry.
Lots of things to look at, here. Is the shop you are using a performance shop??
"If i find theyre marginal, and have to go with another valve,i will be pissed because thatlle be the 3rd valve job in about 15k miles. Isnt taking metal away from seats asking for problems?"
I think I'd be looking for some input as to why 3 valve jobs in 15K. Leaks?, engine failures?
Excessive grinding will sink the valves, and mess w/ the flow. If the engine does not have an adjustable valvetrain, you can get into problems w/ lifter preload and rocker geometry.
Lots of things to look at, here. Is the shop you are using a performance shop??
One of the vjobs was gratuitous (in other words, they said , oh it was running rich, youll need a valve job). Thats when they cut the exh bosses for seals. Then off they came 10k miles later for smoking...and that was a blessin in disguise, as i found out why i had such a load valvetrain...the freakin guides were dead. 3 of them u could wiggle the valves, so got lucky. It was bronze guides they had used. After heads sat at that shop for a year (Howtons in Birmingham) , waiting for a discounted vjob, I just pulled them and went to Cylinder Head Service. I asked for K-liner guides and a hi quality exh vavle ( the guy did NOT want to hear my advice on finding the TTA valves) or anything else Ive learned.
Anyway, i got SBI on fone. It is supposed to be a valve used only for boostd application. Its 214N alloy of stainless and nickel. Supposed to be around since 1991.
Chuck, i did tell the guy in back to please cut as little as possible from seats and had asked him if lapping them in would be an option. The guy at front was insulted , as they have a $100k Serti machine and the assembler said that only .002 would be cut off. Does that sound right?
Anyway, i got SBI on fone. It is supposed to be a valve used only for boostd application. Its 214N alloy of stainless and nickel. Supposed to be around since 1991.
Chuck, i did tell the guy in back to please cut as little as possible from seats and had asked him if lapping them in would be an option. The guy at front was insulted , as they have a $100k Serti machine and the assembler said that only .002 would be cut off. Does that sound right?
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the amt cut off is directly related to how bad the seats are eroded, out of round, etc.
In any case, once the valves are correctly seated, they should check for consistent hgt. If the seats are cut so far that the tops of the stems are all over the map, it's time for new seats.
Is there not a performance oriented shop around there?? Sounds like this shop is a repair type deal that deals w/ mechanics that are interested only in getting the car running, and back to the customer... You know: "Close is good enuf" type $hitty work.
In any case, once the valves are correctly seated, they should check for consistent hgt. If the seats are cut so far that the tops of the stems are all over the map, it's time for new seats.
Is there not a performance oriented shop around there?? Sounds like this shop is a repair type deal that deals w/ mechanics that are interested only in getting the car running, and back to the customer... You know: "Close is good enuf" type $hitty work.
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
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Id say get a set of ferrea valves and be done with it.
cutting corners always leads to a bad result.
A.j.
cutting corners always leads to a bad result.
A.j.
Chuck, I get burned no matter where i go. It was Howtons who originally cut exh bosses , put on seals and ran the grooved valves. Then sat on them a year. I now have a new concern. After looking at how sunk-in the old int valves looked, i took a valve out and compared them to a low mile valve i had sitting around. Well, there is half as much meat on the radius's of the freshly ground int valves. So im scared of using them now. I know that is asking for detonation as they will run hotter. Two questions for you guys... Do yall think a thin radius is asking for detonation/other failure if its the cooler running intake valve? and If i just decide to get another set of valves, does that mean more meat wil be ground away from seats?
Yes, i agree to just get ferrera. Experimenting never works!
Yes, i agree to just get ferrera. Experimenting never works!
