ARP Stud Removal

[Glenn Jones]

'86 GN Champ alum. 4.1 L block I'm having a bitch of a time removing the studs, 3/16 hex not doing it, any clues on removing these ? I didn't install these studs, trying to remove to fix fluid leak from heads.

 

[achalmersman]

What do you mean the hex isnt doing it? It rounded out, or you just dont have a nice allen 3/8 drive socket and cant get enough leverage? If your using L keys the butcher way to get more leverage is to put an adjustable wrench on it. But then if the L cocks sideways and rounds out the allen then even the correct socket wont work. I assume you want to reuse the studs?

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[dynoman]

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[dynoman]

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[turbo nasty]

Broached Hex is NOT designed to remove them it will frequently round out trying to overcome the thread sealants adhesion ..... Hex is for installing them if there a spot that may be lil tight that maybe you cant install by finger. Use a stud remover like this when removing there are a few designs out there https://m.summitracing.com/parts/li...byAzkjlpvDgF7mtU016WtKRireJEnBZp4MBoCVqzw_wcB

 

[achalmersman]

I assumed he was doing this in the car. Ive never used that specific one in that link but with the heads on the only thing exposed assuming you could even get a tool on is threads. Any socket style stud remover Ive ever used slightly damaged the threads. Able to be cleaned up, but I would never reuse them on something where torque is this critical.

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[Glenn Jones]

What do you mean the hex isnt doing it? It rounded out, or you just dont have a nice allen 3/8 drive socket and cant get enough leverage? If your using L keys the butcher way to get more leverage is to put an adjustable wrench on it. But then if the L cocks sideways and rounds out the allen then even the correct socket wont work. I assume you want to reuse the studs?

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[Glenn Jones]

Started with the socket, Felt like too much play and sure enough it spun in the stud head. Moved to bolt between 2 & 4 rockers and used a new L hex with a bit of a cheater bar and it came out. Seems like the other studs under the ac evap will be too tight to get much on them. I don't want to screw up the studs so much that I windup pulling the engine out.

 

[turbo nasty]

I see its still in the car....thats never fun! Get some thin nuts at the hardware store and jam them together on the end of the stud and then remove the stud

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

What turbo nasty said, double nuts tightened together and wrench them out.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[achalmersman]

If for some reason you can't get a wrench on the double nut then you also have the option of using an extractor in the rounded out allen hole.

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[turbo nasty]

Heater box is a biznitch to work around.

 

[Glenn Jones]

I see its still in the car....thats never fun! Get some thin nuts at the hardware store and jam them together on the end of the stud and then remove the stud

Yeah, that was going to be my next effort. Thanks for the input. At this point it seems almost easier to remove from car, only tranny and engine mounts left. not including the radiator and intercooler. Since I hear some squealing in the cam sensor area I might just pull the whole damn thing and save my knuckles.

 

[turbo nasty]

If your replacing HG's then the oil pan needs cleaning anyway. If you pull it and its on the engine stand it makes everything easier and your low back will thank you.

 

[dank GN]

Double nut is how I got mine out when I was having a issue with them