At the track, cannot get MTs to hook at all**UPDATE I was not spinning , having other problems.

Slow91z said:
If they aren't spinning the tire isn't the problem...Leave harder or look for ways to make it spool faster

The key here is he is using stock suspension, it will not be easy to hook em as all Tsa racers are fighting this. I run 16 psi and will blow them off if foot braking as it preloads the suspension. If using trans brake and shocking the suspension I can get 1.51 60 foots. Talk to any Tsa racer to verify, but suspension is the problem when stock.
By the way I run a 2300 @ 0-1 psi converter and foot braking does not work, a looser converter will help but coupling rpm will also change.
Flashing converter, more stall, leaving harder or trans brake will all help, so will proper suspension.
Good luck

Bill
Tsa Rra
Click to expand...
 
Nick Micale said:
My MT street radials are at 26 psi and stick like crazy on the street.

Are the tires spinning at 0-5 psi when leaving the line?

If so, my guess is your converter is too tight, if not you need to leave with more boost.
Click to expand...

If his tires are spinning at 0-5 psi boost launch, his converter is too tight? You mean loose, right?
 
Nick Micale said:
Have Dave get your converter re-stalled as you want at least 2800 stall, been down this road many times as most owners are afraid of too much stall?

My race car has an 8" converter with 4500-5000 stall, and is actually not bad on the street with a 70mm turbo!

My general rule is any converter to be matched to the turbo must have at least 2800 stall at 0 boost, but I like to see 3000 or a little more for a performance build.

My original 9k mile T has a 10" non-lock up that was installed in 1987, and I only have ~100 RPM less at 65 MPH over a stock converter/turbo.
Click to expand...

I did get this converter from Dave. He said it would work well with a stock turbo, or a TA49/TE44. The turbo I have is pretty close to those as far as I understand (I have TA5957, and a 49/44 is 5857, correct?).

A lot of people on the board will say a 12" converter that stalls 2200 @0 will work with these turbos. Or a 10" that is 2400@0. Even guys with the 9.5" converters say the stall is around 2500-2600@0. So Nick you are saying I need 2800@0? I thought I understood the deal with converters but now I'm lost again.
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
If his tires are spinning at 0-5 psi boost launch, his converter is too tight? You mean loose, right?
Click to expand...

I was able to determine I was not spinning. I need to work on my launch technique. Unfortunately someone broke an axle and put gear oil over the track and I only was able to get one more pass in. I don't think I'm bringing the rpms or boost up enough on the launch.
 
With a decent track prep, and about 15 psi on those tires, and a good working power master, you should be able to build about 8 psi with no problems, and get a really good short time.
 
I know someone on a bone stock motor,pro-torque 12 inch,49 turbo car pump/gas alky same tire your on going 1.49 60fts and 11.22 119mph.gotta drive/learn the car or your be swapping parts all your life.leave on boost and work the suspension.i used the ebrake and dropped the hammer at 15psi on an old 49 turbo stock motor stock gear d-5 converter combo.car spins let out,if it hooks hang on.
 
I got back to the track this weekend and while slightly better, I still wonder if there is something wrong with my combo or tune. My last (best) run, I was able to get up to 12 psi on the foot brake. I went 1.80 60', and a 12.41 at 108. This was at 26 psi max boost and I got 6.3 kr probably because I had bumped wot timing .7 deg on that run. My other runs were like 109/110 mph with a 12.50 et. Shifting at 4900. Converter locked in 3rd gear. Am I wrong to expect more out of a 5957 or do I just need to turn up the boost and try to launch at a higher boost too? It's almost to the point of pushing thru the line.

Stock heads/cam/IC/air intake/downpipe
Ported elbow
No cat, 2.5" cat-back
12" lockup converter 2200@0
E85

1/8 mile was 7.93 at 87.9
 
Last edited:
A couple observations:
1. The steam roller tires on the ft don't help.
2. I see no mention of a data logger, other than a SM.

Video???
 
You mean the tires are too tall? Everyone is always saying 28" is good on a stock engine to keep rpm down.

I just bought a power logger I still need to install it.

I have video I can upload it tonight.
 
monteperformanc said:
I got back to the track this weekend and while slightly better, I still wonder if there is something wrong with my combo or tune. My last (best) run, I was able to get up to 12 psi on the foot brake. I went 1.80 60', and a 12.41 at 108. This was at 26 psi max boost and I got 6.3 kr probably because I had bumped wot timing .7 deg on that run. My other runs were like 109/110 mph with a 12.50 et. Shifting at 4900. Converter locked in 3rd gear. Am I wrong to expect more out of a 5957 or do I just need to turn up the boost and try to launch at a higher boost too? It's almost to the point of pushing thru the line.

Stock heads/cam/IC/air intake/downpipe/ported elbow
No cat, 2.5" cat-back
12" lockup converter 2200@0
E85

1/8 mile was 7.93 at 87.9
Click to expand...

What do you mean downpipe. As in stock down pipe, or down pipe is one of your mods? You sure you should be locking up that converter on a wot blast? You sure that converter doesn't suck in the areas of coupling? a 12 psi launch is pretty dam good. How was the vht situation? Are you spinning your rims inside your tires? That kr hurt you really good too I bet. What springs do you have in the rear? Do you have air bags? What about sway bars?
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
What do you mean downpipe. As in stock down pipe, or down pipe is one of your mods? You sure you should be locking up that converter on a wot blast? You sure that converter doesn't suck in the areas of coupling? a 12 psi launch is pretty dam good. How was the vht situation? Are you spinning your rims inside your tires? That kr hurt you really good too I bet. What springs do you have in the rear? Do you have air bags? What about sway bars?
Click to expand...

Stock downpipe with ported stock elbow. No I'm not sure if I should be locking the converter, but I have heard it can result in 2 tenths/2 mph gain. As far as how it couples? I don't know. The track was sticky. One pass they put the VHT down right in front of me. Not spinning the wheels in the tires I marked them to check. Stock rear springs with an airbag on the passenger side with about 15 psi air in it. Stock sway bars are still there.
 
I know I know the stock intercooler and down pipe have been in the 8's. That's great. Now that that's out of the way, get a dutt neck on that intercooler, a new down pipe, better converter (I know that thing is slipping) (don't lock your converter either) and get a thicker rear sway. And/or yank your front sway for the track. It's easy with a stock intercooler.
Also, a wideband for seeing your air fuel ratios would be nice. Or a power logger to see what's happening when you cross the traps. Do you have stock valve springs? Have you had your stock cam checked for wear? Yank that timing until you get no KR thru the entire run.

If you want to do it on the cheap, port your factory intercooler's inlet tube so that's it's radiused, and buy a Kirbans 3" down pipe. They're cheaper. Also, what mufflers are you running in that car?
 
Turbo6Smackdown said:
I know I know the stock intercooler and down pipe have been in the 8's. That's great. Now that that's out of the way, get a dutt neck on that intercooler, a new down pipe, better converter (I know that thing is slipping) (don't lock your converter either) and get a thicker rear sway. And/or yank your front sway for the track. It's easy with a stock intercooler.
Also, a wideband for seeing your air fuel ratios would be nice. Or a power logger to see what's happening when you cross the traps. Do you have stock valve springs? Have you had your stock cam checked for wear? Yank that timing until you get no KR thru the entire run.

If you want to do it on the cheap, port your factory intercooler's inlet tube so that's it's radiused, and buy a Kirbans 3" down pipe. They're cheaper. Also, what mufflers are you running in that car?
Click to expand...

I just bought a powerlogger and installing that and a wideband is my next project. I replaced the stock valvesprings with the Comp 980s. I have not checked the cam. The exhaust is the Pypes cat back system with the race-pro mufflers. And yes I am on a pretty tight budget so while I would love to get a better converter and a nice SLIC, it's likely not going to happen for a while. Maybe one of those but not both. I'm trying to max out what I have and I feel like I am not close to doing that yet. I will def pull the timing back next time. I just tried it on that one pass to see what would happen. I just feel like something is holding back the 60 foots and if I could get down in the 1.6 range, I would feel like it's doing what it should.
 
Taking front sway bar is over rated don't need to do that . Turbo6smackdown I'm sending you pm and I will send you video of my car n help you with setup . Simple stupid .
 
Huh? I can't get to the track, it's winter here lol. Do you mean Monteperformance?
And Monte, for now, you can port your intercooler-it's free. What sort of air filter do you have? I don't know what's happening, but if you can't get it down on a 12 psi launch, something's really wrong. If you have no wheel spin, and are truly leaving on 12 psi, then that should be an awesome short time. That's a little bit of a pickle right there. I'd have to think on that one. What's your 1/2 timing? Are you super rich down low? Have you messed with the 1st gear offset on the chip, for a good launch? Do you have the factory gearing?
 
Monte, when I saw you launch that day., it looked like it would be a high 13 second pass. When I saw mid 12's I was blown away.
 
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