Atr Wastegate

gmturbo

Northern Turbo
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
I have ATR WASTGATE on my 87 Gn with their
stainless steel headers 3 inch downpipe and 2-1/2 exhaust
from the cat back. Under boost I'm noticing boost creep
goes from 10lbs then when car shifts gears bumps up to 15lbs
I drove the car today again and now the minimum boost is
15lbs under wot . Should I be looking for a vacuum leak
in the lines leading to the wastegate or do I have a wastegate
problem..any feeback would be greatly appreciated:confused:
 
Stock or non-stock turbo???
Reason I ask is because if the stock turbo wastegate hole isn't ported to match the ATR DP, then you will have boost creep. When I was running a stock turbo, I ported that hole to match and had rock solid performance.
 
ATR gate??

I had one of them for several years w/ the same exh. setup. had problems w/ it. Even sent it back to ATR for a "1000 HP" mod, and then to John Craig for his mods.. Still leaked and had erratic boost control....found the valve guide was LOOSE and the head of the valve ate up the end of the pipe the gate mounts to. It cut a trough as a perfect circle inside the copper gasket. The flange is mild steel, I think, and that caused the problem. My clue to a problem was slow boost rise. I think having it plumbed as a single port gate is also a problem, as the exh back pressure can cause the gate to be erratic.
I changed to the INNOVATIVE "Pro Gate" and find no problems..yet;)
 
its a TE63 TURBO with at .63 exh/h.....Chuck will the
wastegate you refer to bolt directly to my existing set-up without
modification?
 
I have an atr wastegate, and I havent been very happy with it either. Same exact problems as you: boost creep and irradic boost levels. Really makes is hard to tune when you cant count on your boost being consistant. One thing I can tell you is if your running a bleeder valve, you need to sh!tcan it altogether because it wont help. So Chuck, how much does that Pro Gate run?
 
Innovative gate fit?

It will fit the tube on the header if you lightly file the bolt holes in the flange outward just 1 "RCH".;)
The end to the DP needs to be changed. I cut the tube off near the bellows, added a "slip over" piece of tube to lengthen the reach about 1/2". I then cut the original flange off the tube and welded on the flange that fits the gate outlet face. The outlet flange hole is bigger than the ATR flange.You may have to have the tube flared a bit to make a good fit and to make it look right.
Fit this stuff up ON THE CAR!! Tack weld everything and then remove and TIG weld it completely.
 
PRO GATE$$

I got mine from Cotton.[INNOVATIVE wanted a $10,00 buy in:mad: ] I paid about $460 for it w/ 2 flanges and the gaskets.
You have to plumb it for 2 port operation to make it effective.[ I had mine plumbed like the ATR and it was lazy.] Went to the INNOVATIVE folks, got "edumacated" and re-plumbed it w/ the INNOVATIVE electronic controller, [ANOTHER $500!!] to 2 port setup. Will know more when I turn it loose later this month... Am putting in a roll bar system now.
1 Thing I did find out was the gate held the boost!! Kept blowing the damn hose off at the turbo.. and that was w/ T-bolt clamps!!
Still managed a 10.90 @ 9psi!!;) ;)
 
I have had one on my car for 5 years now. It has worked pretty well.
 
I have turbonetics RACEgate with a CPT65. Very solid boost control, but slow spool up until about 10psi. I have a vigilante "0" pump and havent found any exhaust leaks. Could the slow spool have anything to do with the wastegate???
 
I have an ATR Gate on my Car for 5 Years too, and it works great too. I have the two Ports connected, the Deltagate style, and it`s very accurate. Make sure your Diaphram is not cracked.
Good Luck
 
What two ports are you referring too? and another question I have is should the vacuum lime be t-eed off into the compressor
side of the turbo also or just run the vacuum lines to the wastegate alone???:confused:
 
There is a Diagram in the gnttype.org on how to connect the hoses. Maybe your problem is if you have it connected like original, and having the Turbo Pressure going to atmophere, that will give you an irratic boost control. Install yourself a Boost Conrol Valve in the Car.
Check the Diagram to see what I am talking about...
 
I've had an ATR wastegate for at least 5 years. In the beginning it would hold boost to a point, then shoot through the roof! Sent it back to ATR 2 years ago for a rebuild. They said that SOME of the earlier units COULD bind up. After they got mine, they said that it was one of the newer units, but would rebuild it anyways ($85). Since I got it back, it has been rock solid. I have an in-console bleed valve (ATR brass one) that works just fine.

Bob
 
well I'm going to check all my vacuum lines too make sure I
do not have a defect one. I've only had it on the car for 2 days
tried to adjust and first day 10lbs then it just keeps getting
higher , I have been able to turn it down. With that combo
wahts the minimum boost you can run?:rolleyes:
 
Who cut your wastegate hole? That is usually the culprit. As for minumum boost, the lowest mine can go is like 15. I have not looked to see how low it can go since I got it. ;)
 
2 PORTS??

The INNOVATIVE W/G has 2 ports, 1 on the header side of the diaphram and 1 on the outer face. The guys at INNOVATIVE told me to use both of the ports, as using the single port as on the ATR I took off,[outer port on the ATR has a bronze breather.] would not control the boost as it should. He said this is due to the hi exhaust backpressure when running hi boost, hi flow turbo. [Mine is a t-72, and I was trying to get 28psi]

He also said to use vac sources DIRECTLY from the manifold. DO NOT TEE into other lines. [I am also using the INNOV. electronic controller]
 
Cotton cut my wategate hole on the turbo. If I crank the bleeder valve all the way down I'll get 10psi
 
so does this mean there is a vacuum hole in your turbo
or is that where the wastegate is installed????:confused:
 
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