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Attention all 125mph(1/4 mi) cars or faster

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Warp6

Mine since '92
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,882
with 200R4 transmission...what converter are you using?
 
Hmm, I had a PI 9.5" non-lu. why do you ask, looking for a converter? :-)

TurboTR
 
I've got a 9" 3400...it seems a little loose on the top end to me. Only drops 400-500 rpm at shifts
 
are you guys also seeing 400-500 rpm drops? Should I notice more of a drop or not?
 
126 MPH

126 mph- 29 in tall tires- Precision Industries Lock up--0 pump--3200 stall
Car shifts 1-2 at 5700-5800
Car shifts 2-3 at 57-5800
Convertor locks at 90 MPH in the top of third--at 5400 then climbs back to 5800 thru the traps
At the 57-5800 shift the RPMS drop back to 5000
 
136 MPH baby!!

Warp 6,

I've actually run 136 MPH with my combo. I've been using a 9.5" lock up Precision Industries convertor with a "6" pump. Depending on what turbo/ turbine housing you end up with you might not need this much stall speed but is works well with my T-76. :)

Neal
 
Dang Neal, I'd love to hear more about your combo
 
I have been 131 with an ATI 9" non lockup 29" tire 5800 rpm threw the traps. Changed to a Neil Chance converter for a 2004R but no runs on it yet.
 
Is 500 rpm the norm for rpm drop with a 3400rpm converter? I'm currently running a 26" tire. I think I need to try something taller.
 
I just measured my nearly worn out BFG Drag Radials - 25 1/2" What do you guys think the optimum tire size would be?
 
I would say it depends on your combo....I run 28" ET Streets on my 87 to keep the revs down....A 26" tire would be too short for my current combo. WIth the 28" I run through the traps at 54-5500 according to DS. It's all in what you need for your combo.....I would guess that anything beyond 11.70s would need a 28" tire to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. JMO though.
 
Originally posted by Warp6
Red, what size rear tires you running?

27/10.5/15 hoosier quick time pro's

moving up to 28 inch hoosiers along with bigger injectors.
it ran out of fuel with 50's going to 75's
 
RPM DROP??

Have talked to several converter guys.. Some are saying 500 is not too bad.. others are saying 1000-1200 is where it should be.
If you have dyno runs for comparo, look where the power is and go from there...Do it like the stick guys do.. Run to max power, plus 10% and shift. r's drop back under the curve and engine continues to pull. Running the engine outside that curve results in lower power output and slower acceleration...
IE:the engine curve shows max power at 4700 and the engine is singing along at 5500, looking at the dyno results clearly shows less HP is being applied to the wheels..
Right?? Wrong??
If the car is a lockup, the above still applies as the engine is still out of the curve..all you do there is eliminate the converter slip losses..and the combo becomes a "stick combo", for the most part.

BIG downside I found to low rpm drop is heat... Trans ran 375*!![drop of 50RPM!]:rolleyes: Changed the converter, got a drop of 400RPM, the temps went to 200, went to 500, temps went to 180-190. These are "street heats" Was scared to look when on the track!!:eek: :eek:

FWIW, The 10.20's were run w/ the "sloppy" converter!!!engine was near the rev limiter at 6000! Am hoping the RIGHT converter will add 5-7 mph. The AC in there now sure feels better on a 9psi launch!! Neighbors don't like it, tho!!:D
 
10.71 @ 124.9

I tried two 9.5" vigelante's

#6 pump ? 4000 stall - got more like 4600 at 20psi, and after 1st gear, it never went under 5100. It seemed like it was revving for nothing, but still went fast.

#0 pump ? 3000/3200 stall - got more like 36/3800 at 20psi. It felt more "normal" and seemed much tighter. Ran just as good & didn't rpm for nothing. Had to run a lot cooler on the trans, but never checked. Still launched like a mad man, so I would never go back :) Also, went fastest locking it on the 1-2 shift. Pulled like never before :D Can't say for sure, but remember around 650-750 rpm drop. I love 28" tires, keeps the motor in the power band longer, and bigger contact patch for same width.
 
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