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BAER Brake Install

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Cheers from Down Under Australia,

Thank you very much Scott for your Baer brake install tutorial and photos!!! Awesome!!!
Hoping you can help me with a query. If you are kind enough to help, that will be super! I'm a bit of a novice but love to learn and do what I can myself. I have a 69 chevelle with T4 Fronts and SS4 REARS.
I recently purchaced ( from USA ) the rear backing plates with actuators and e brakes assembly as all the emergency brake componets are not on my current backing plates. I'd like to install and get the E brake working with minimal fuss and work and would prefer not to drop the rear c clips and remove axles.

My question is: can I remove the actuator and bits from new backing plates, drop the calipers, remove rotors and install all the brake components on existing backing plates without droping axles???? or am I best to replace the whole assembly and plates the long process?? Sorry for the lame question
Jim.
Jim,

Sorry for the late reply I just seen this now while I was looking for some other stuff... The answer is it's not recommended simply because BAER brakes are designed around their backing plate to center the rotor to the caliper properly..
 
Hey there just a quick question: I have the track 4 set-up as well, when I installed my rear brakes it seems they have a small amount of play in them (The caliper moves on the bracket maybe back and forth a 16th of an inch) are the rears meant to be a self centering type of floating set up? Or do I need to look into this more..... the fronts seem to have no play in the brake caliper bracket.....
 
Hey there just a quick question: I have the track 4 set-up as well, when I installed my rear brakes it seems they have a small amount of play in them (The caliper moves on the bracket maybe back and forth a 16th of an inch) are the rears meant to be a self centering type of floating set up? Or do I need to look into this more..... the fronts seem to have no play in the brake caliper bracket.....
Yes the rear is a Floating set up so it's supposed to move some... ;)

Sent from my SCH-R530U using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
Ill be done my e-brake install this coming weekend. I lost a bracket so I had to order another one.... I'm half way done and its pretty simple. I can put up pics if Scot doesn't have any......
 
Ill be done my e-brake install this coming weekend. I lost a bracket so I had to order another one.... I'm half way done and its pretty simple. I can put up pics if Scot doesn't have any......
Please do, Mine is in the middle of another project right now and some nice pictures of the e-brake cable installation would be good to add to this build thread. Much appreciated!
 
I'm doing mine now is the reason I asked. It looks like the stock cable goes from the brake lever inside of the car all the way to the drivers side rear, and the bracket just connects the passenger side to that cable. I haven't traced it out yet, is that true?

I did notice the bracket that holds the cable above the rear axle has a bolt that is impossible to get to so fortunately you can just lift straight up and remove the cable from the bracket and reuse it.
 
Its pretty easy to install the e-brake system with the Baer kit. The two provided cables go to the equalizer bracket and then attach to the original e-brake cable..... here are some pics for future reference.




 
I'd like to add that instead of using the hose clamps to hold the clip that connects the caliper line to stock hard line I decided to weld it to my now obsolete coil bracket like so:
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1393189349.511372.jpg
 
Other side sorry it was dark..
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1393212078.517628.jpg



Also if someone could tell me exactly how the shims are utilized that came with the kit and the syringe. I assume it is to space the caliper and to fill the caliper with fluid but there is no mention in the directions so I thought id ask...
 
Okay,, the syringe is to clean the brake fluid out of the bleeder. You're suppose to put water in it and flush the brake fluid out of the bleeder to prevent fluid from dripping out later on...
 
Anyone have an issue with the track 4 lug studs being too short? Are they press in? Looks like ill need to change mine.
 
I had no issue with my Track4 system studs and the fitment of my CCW wheels..... That does not mean BAER might have changed things or the Centerline wheel has a thicker base at the hub than the CCW does....
 
Scott do you know if they're push in studs?
I believe so..... I can find out tomorrow for you and let you know.....

You are talking about the front right? Cause the BAER Track4 systems we sell come pre assembled on modified OEM spindles and hubs so I would guess they are press in just like OEM.
 
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Sure that would be great.

FYI I did call Baer about the dust cap and they said Dorman 618-102 is te stamped steel version that will work for clearance
 
James,

Yes the studs are press in studs!

They are the same exact studs that they send out in every Track4 kit.... The difference is in the wheels that you have, the base is thicker......
 
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