Basic Engine rebuild suggestions

[white-t-type]

I am doing what I call a basic rebuild on my motor. This will basically include new rings, rod and main bearings, and gasket set, along with a camshaft and timing chain. I also plan to port and polish the heads and intake as well as install new valve springs. Would you guys suggest using ARP bolts in the rods and mains? Is there anything else I should consider doing?

 

[xsbc63x]

im in the process of doing my build right now, billet 2-3 mains, arp hardware throughout, rods need to be resized with the arp bolts, arp headbolts for me, also a roller cam setup as well.

 

[1chance]

im in the process of doing my build right now, billet 2-3 mains, arp hardware throughout, rods need to be resized with the arp bolts, arp headbolts for me, also a roller cam setup as well.

+1 i dont have the steel main caps, dont see the need.

 

[413turbo]

i'm just doing my first motor now, but thru hours of research . here's my opinion:
main studs
head studs
stock rod bolts

if you are porting the heads, grind all the casting flash off the crank and rods.

 

[Russ Merritt]

IMO, don't risk your new engine to 20yr old fasteners. The stock bolts worked well, but after 20+ yrs it's time to send em on vacation....... Lookin at your sig, 6152, alky, ported heads, FM, your building a 10 sec car. Don't skimp to save chump change......

ARP main studs, rod bolts, and head studs are standard procedure.

 

[V6gofast]

i'm just doing my first motor now, but thru hours of research . here's my opinion:
main studs
head studs
stock rod bolts

if you are porting the heads, grind all the casting flash off the crank and rods.

I agree with this,the stock rod bolts are SPS which are still far stronger than
the rod itself. I personally have never seen a rod bolt failure in a V6 Buick. I
HAVE seen rods come in with the bearing completely gone and the rod still
hanging on the crank. If you engine is an original build (not ever apart before)
then I see no reason to waste the money on upgrade bolts.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

arp rod bolts

IMO, don't risk your new engine to 20yr old fasteners. The stock bolts worked well, but after 20+ yrs it's time to send em on vacation....... Lookin at your sig, 6152, alky, ported heads, FM, your building a 10 sec car. Don't skimp to save chump change......

ARP main studs, rod bolts, and head studs are standard procedure.

is there any need to machine to accept arp studs on connecting rods and mains.

 

[Russ Merritt]

is there any need to machine to accept arp studs on connecting rods and mains.

IMO, they all need to be checked even of your not changing rod bolts/ main studs. They might need it without the ARP hardware. You could rering and bearing it, not check anything and get away with it. I've seen people do it a 100 times and it work out for them. Would I do it that way? No. Your there, do it right......

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I am doing what I call a basic rebuild on my motor. This will basically include new rings, rod and main bearings, and gasket set, along with a camshaft and timing chain. I also plan to port and polish the heads and intake as well as install new valve springs. Would you guys suggest using ARP bolts in the rods and mains? Is there anything else I should consider doing?

Hone the cylinders to take the glaze off, this will help the new rings seat. Fresh oil pump, water pump, take a close look at your cam sensor gear, since putting a cam in.(these two gears mesh) It should be fine, just look for excessive wear, chipped teeth. Check your front cover for excessive wear from the cam button. Good time to have the alternator and starter checked out also (I have a local guy that rebuilds them while you wait).
I know this is basic stuff, but since you asked...

Chuck

 

[xsbc63x]

+1 i dont have the steel main caps, dont see the need.

are you running a forged crank though?

 

[white-t-type]

So it would appear that I will be using ARP head and main studs along with rod bolts. Once I get those let my machine shop check out the crank and block to see if any machining is needed. Hone the cylinders install new rings and assemble the short block. Check cam sensor, replace the oil pump, and finish the assembly on the rest of the motor. I will also consider the small details such as removing all the casting flash from the rods and crank. My goal is to run high 10's, 25-28lbs of boost and perhaps go a little faster down the road. Thanks guys if you have anything else please let me hear it. I was thinking maybe a 208 or 212 duration camshaft as well.

 

[Pablo]

So it would appear that I will be using ARP head and main studs along with rod bolts. Once I get those let my machine shop check out the crank and block to see if any machining is needed. Hone the cylinders install new rings and assemble the short block. Check cam sensor, replace the oil pump, and finish the assembly on the rest of the motor. I will also consider the small details such as removing all the casting flash from the rods and crank. My goal is to run high 10's, 25-28lbs of boost and perhaps go a little faster down the road. Thanks guys if you have anything else please let me hear it. I was thinking maybe a 208 or 212 duration camshaft as well.

Rod bolts are a waste of money, see Dan Strezo's post.

 

[jasjamz]

It's up to you....

Here it comes...the go faster bug. Since you have it all apart now, do it right and be done with it. Be honest with yourself as far as the goal, limitations, and the budget. Why take it all back apart to put a steel crank in it, main caps, or a girdle, a year from now? I don't want to sound like a jerk but, when a part that should have been upgraded fails, who's stuck with the bill?

 

[ALVAROG1983]

Arp Bolts

Rod bolts are a waste of money, see Dan Strezo's post.

why do saw waste of money pablo im at this point i have a short block stock want to put arp hardware or should i not. my nice motor took a crap it might of been like that.

 

[d0n_3d]

If you are on a pretty tight budget (who isn't anymore), listen to Dan. He knows these engines better than we know our own fingerprints!

Whatever you do, think long and hard about how fast you eventually want to go. It will save you so much money in the long run if you build everything up NOW instead of doing a mild build, and then down the road you want to crank it up and then end up destroying your motor. Better to overbuild than underbuild.