Before/After Black racing - learned a few things.

[b4black]

The heated wide band sensor is doing fine. The narrow band is getting lazy, but it's been in there for a long time. Runs OK, just doesn't idle too well.

Knocks are at WOT going down the track.

 

[canadian nascar]

Hi
Just a thought on the knock, I do get more if the cool down time isn't there, I make sure the hood is up asap to let the heat out.

Also with the spring tension was probably a little too tight and wasn't letting the secondary flaps open all the way, in turn the turbo couldn't spool as much boost. Air flap opening too fast will allow too much fuel and will be rich afr.

With mine I could set the air flap tension but withe the bigger one it couldn't be done, get rid of the lean bog, so I was told to cut the length of the carb accel pump shaft 1/16''. This pumps more fuel into the circuit, it really helped my lean bog.

later Kevin, just trying to help

 

[b4black]

Thanks Kevin.

I'll been seeing some amount of knock every run, even the first run of the day. But the first run was usually the best. I do pop the hood on the return road.

My problem was I was trying too many things at once. Backing off every thing and then working back up will teach me a lot. I need to do more test & tune and less bracket racing.

 

[canadian nascar]

Hi,

yeah I've been in tht position too, doing too many things at once, then backtrack. lol i get goofy.

it is a long road sorting it out.

hope I can help in the future, I read some of your old posts, do you think that the msd btm is really benificial for spark or timing control over stock?

I have the msd 6a btm also.

later Kevin

 

[b4black]

I wouldn't buy the BTM again. I thought it would be good for adding and removing timing when using race gas, and then pump gas. By the time you pull enough timing out for pump gas, it's just an a overall slug. And the knob will let you pull up to 3 degrees / psi. That's OK for a low boost supercharged car, but for a turbo car running 15+ psi, you only want to pull about 1/4 degree / psi or less. That's tricky to do consistently.

I have one of those ball & spring type "boost controllers" in the pressure line going to the wastegate actuator. It adds 10 psi to the base setting. So right now, it's 10 psi without it, and 20 with it. That seems better than the BTM for swicthing from pump gas vs. race gas.

Other than the BTM, I have never played with timing. It might be worthwile to add some base (initial) timing and then pull it back out with the BTM. This could help on the street with low boost driving without causing knock at WOT.

 

[charlief1]

We really need Fred to jump in here and give his knowledge on what he used to do. Have you neard from him lately Rich?

 

[b4black]

It's been a while since we heard from Fred. I believe he ran 116 race gas, 19 psi of boost, and a holley carb.

The starter left me stranded again. Another whack to the solenoid got it going. I guess I should have rebuilt the whole starter. Hopefully I'll get it done quicker this time.

 

[charlief1]

LOL Just break down and get a good mini starter Rich. I can send you a link if you want. The cost about $70 shipped and should keep this from happening again.

 

[usetaboost]

where you get those starters from? That's cheap and i need one

 

[Freddie's Buick]

I wouldn't buy the BTM again. I thought it would be good for adding and removing timing when using race gas, and then pump gas. By the time you pull enough timing out for pump gas, it's just an a overall slug.

I'm glad you mentioned that. I use the similar MSD Adj Timing control. I don't think you'll get anywhere with adjusting the base timing, but see what you come up with. (According to the instructions you can add or reduce up to 7.5 degrees either way if you set the adjuster dead center during the install). If you're still using the oem ECM controlled HEI, I don't think you can do any better other than to back date it to the vac advance system, (and you can still use the adj timing control). But if you do that then you'll have to eliminate the electronic carb and use an earlier carb. All do-able and much more fun to tweak in my opinion. I wish you get a handle on that knock to see what you come up with. All this other gibberish about down pipes, bigger carbs, hogged out turbos don't convince me. Secondary carb airhorn opening tweaks don't convine me either but it is somewere in the secondary metering. The various available metering rods may not do the complete task but perhaps a custom made set or opening up the channels might do the trick, (that requires a master carb tecnician). I believe it's somewhere in the secondary metering. BTW the carb pic you showed with the flap cut-outs are just another take on faster fuel delivery to the secondaries. There are three ways to achieve this: (1) As pictured on your post, (2) the goofy loosening or tighting of the spring on the airhorn, (you know this one), (3) the one I favor which is to plug the openings above the flaps and drill new ones below the flaps.

 

[charlief1]

HE DOES EXIST!!! Glad to see you on Freddie.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

HE DOES EXIST!!!...

LOL!!

 

[b4black]

I threw on a mini-starter this weekend.

I also upped the boost to 15 psi. No knock, but still on race gas. I'm going to drive it till it dies and then refill with 93 octane.

 

[b4black]

Made in to the track yesterday. ..... Ran a 14.4 ET.

Left it alone the rest of the day for bracket racing. Made it to the semi-final and then red lite at -0.011

Here's a picture from that day. Our last race was rained out. I might take the car out a few more times, but winter is approaching.